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Thread: Carry Handle help

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by captdreifus View Post
    Sorry, what do you mean by pulling studs through the handle?
    The studs are press fit into the forging of the handle. Look on the opposite side of the handle from where the knobs are.

    Are they getting pulled into the handle?
    Last edited by markm; 04-25-13 at 15:00.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    The studs are press fit into the forging of the handle. Look on the opposite side of the handle from where the knobs are.

    Are they getting pulled into the handle?
    I'll have to check once I get home from work.

    What if they are being pulled into the handle?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by captdreifus View Post
    I'll have to check once I get home from work.

    What if they are being pulled into the handle?
    Then there's way too much torque.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by T2C View Post
    I tighten the screws as tight as I can with a quarter inserted into the slot on the screw.
    I agree, it shouldn't need any more tightening than that.
    If yours wont stay tight, I'd go the Loctite route because you sure as heck aren't going to find the nuts anywhere as replacement parts.

  5. #15
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    trolling

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunhand View Post
    trolling
    Whats up with the new members who just recently joined that make comments like trolling and the such.

    If you dont have any helpful or contributing response its probably best to keep one word spam comments off the board.


    OP, its a judgement call. Tightness wont prevent loosening. It was loosening as it didnt have anything to keep it from not loosening. Vibration always helps loosen things up. Just get it nice and snug after adding a bit of loc tite, which u already did. Should be g2g now.
    From TOS ... "buy the shit out of that thing, all the mil spec is just nonsense."

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunhand View Post
    trolling



    The two studs are still flush with the handle. So I'm assuming that its GTG?

    Thanks for all the helpful responses so far.

  8. #18
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    One thing that will help is, once the carry handle is steeled into the slots, is to push it forward as you're tightening the thumb screws. This will butt the screws up against the vertical stop in the slot to remove any gap and prevent slippage under recoil. Slipping under recoil can cause the carry handle to shoot loose
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    One thing that will help is, once the carry handle is steeled into the slots, is to push it forward as you're tightening the thumb screws. This will butt the screws up against the vertical stop in the slot to remove any gap and prevent slippage under recoil. Slipping under recoil can cause the carry handle to shoot loose
    I have a gun that doesn't like that theory. I put the handle on, butted forward... and it slid back. So I loosened it and moved it back forward, and it's back again. Strange... but I just left it after that.

    I guess the bolt's forward movement in the cycle is snappier than the rearward movement.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    I have a gun that doesn't like that theory. I put the handle on, butted forward... and it slid back. So I loosened it and moved it back forward, and it's back again. Strange... but I just left it after that.

    I guess the bolt's forward movement in the cycle is snappier than the rearward movement.
    I had one carbine that did the same thing. If it bothers you, you can always install a shim. I placed a small shim made from a piece of beer can between the receiver and the carry handle. A lot people I know use aluminum foil to take the slop out. I use beer can shims when it takes more than one layer of aluminum foil.
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