Receiver finishes

[zgrins1]

http://www.americanelements.com/niac.html

[CHoffman]

When a part is anodized, there's a thin layer of oxide produced on the surface. Since this oxide doesn't conduct electricity, the underlying metal maintains contact with the solution by means of a series of pores in the oxide coating. If anodized aluminum is dyed , that's where the dye goes - in those pores.

Before the part is put in service, the pores have to be sealed, or the coating will fail a lot sooner. Dyed anodized aluminum requires sealing in nickel acetate, to prevent bleeding and to improve light fastness. Nickel acetate also offers better chemical and dirt resistance than steam or boiling water sealing which are other alternative means of sealing, although mostly for clear non-dyed coatings.

At least this is the information I recall when I was researching at-home anodizing. Was too much of an involved process for the limited parts I was going to do so I didn't pursue it much further.

[BushmasterFanBoy]

When a part is anodized, there's a thin layer of oxide produced on the surface. Since this oxide doesn't conduct electricity, the underlying metal maintains contact with the solution by means of a series of pores in the oxide coating. If anodized aluminum is dyed , that's where the dye goes - in those pores.

Before the part is put in service, the pores have to be sealed, or the coating will fail a lot sooner. Dyed anodized aluminum requires sealing in nickel acetate, to prevent bleeding and to improve light fastness. Nickel acetate also offers better chemical and dirt resistance than steam or boiling water sealing which are other alternative means of sealing, although mostly for clear non-dyed coatings.

At least this is the information I recall when I was researching at-home anodizing. Was too much of an involved process for the limited parts I was going to do so I didn't pursue it much further.

Wow. Thank you, turns out this thread produced some good info.

[Parabellum9x19mm]

My question (as stated) was on nickel acetate (what is it?) and the use of motor oil to wipe down the exteriors (does anyone really do that?). Reading that FAQ just got me curious.

i've bought some new stripped lowers that had some handling marks and dings and such. no biggie, they still work. you can always just dab them with a touch up pen to prevent any corrosion on the bare metal. with aluminum it is not a big concern anyway.

as far as motor oil, i use 10w-40 or 5w-30 motor oil for lubrication almost exclusively on my ARs. all my other guns i lube with CLP or Mil-comm TW25B.....but with a direct impingement AR, i don't think anything works quite as well as motor oil.

i don't wipe down the exterior of the weapon with motor oil, but i run my ARs really wet at the range, so i do wind up getting oil on the exterior of the weapon and it ends up getting "wiped in".