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Thread: Remington 700 mods

  1. #1
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    Remington 700 mods

    I currently have a basic Remington 700 in .308 that I would like to enhance. The purpose of this rifle is for precision - I do not have any competition in mind for it, but I would like to attend some classes with it at some point. I think I know just enough about this to get me in trouble so here are the things I have identified to replace:

    Barrel I already ordered a barrel from Bartlein. I plan on having them install it when the time comes.

    Stock Will probably go with a HS as I think I can get a deal on one, but this is not set in stone. Currently looking at their PST025.

    Trigger Timney straight trigger. Is there a reason to get the nickel version?

    I read through the thread on rings and bases so I think I have that covered.

    I also plan on putting a Surefire comp on there. I chose that brand for use with a can. Also ordered a Badger bolt knob.

    I see recoil lugs available - is there a benefit to getting an oversized lug?

    This is what I have so far. I plan on ordered the parts over the next several months so I have something to work on when I get home. Is there anything else I should be looking at before the work starts?

  2. #2
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    Great choice on the barrel.

    Stocks are preferences as long as its solid and doesn't flex. Bed it.

    Timney rocks. Never tried the nickle so no opinion.

    Oversized re oil lugs do nothing. But of your having the rifle barreled go ahead and get one thats at least parallel ground. Bed the rifle. Pillar bed it if you can.

    Other things to consider... Bottom metal, optics, finish, and, what's that thing called? Oh yeah. Shoot the shit out of it. Save for ammo and reloading if you don't already.

    ETA: I would get the base, rings and optic in that order first. Before the shiny bits for the rifle. That way you can shoot it before and while ordering parts. You do run the risk of "it's good enough" and not getting all the stuff to make it great, but you also get to grow your skill set while acquiring parts.

    Are you going to have it blueprints while the barrel is off?
    Last edited by MOA; 04-30-13 at 23:09.
    Sorry, I come from the world of long range. Forgive my ignorance.

  3. #3
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    Oh yeah - bottom metal. Looking hard at the BAD bottom metal.

    Ive been accumulating ammo and components for awhile. I've had at least one .308 for the last 12 years, this is just the first one I will tinker with.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOA View Post
    ETA: I would get the base, rings and optic in that order first. Before the shiny bits for the rifle. That way you can shoot it before and while ordering parts. You do run the risk of "it's good enough" and not getting all the stuff to make it great, but you also get to grow your skill set while acquiring parts.

    Are you going to have it blueprints while the barrel is off?
    I'm deployed so I can't shoot it as it gets modded. This is more of a slow ordering of parts until I get home.

    Not sure on the blueprinting. Prolly would be the best time for it.

  5. #5
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    Since your deployed then I would definitely get it blueprints while it's being done. Way cheaper than doing it twice.

    What twist you going with? 1-10? Honestly sounds like you got it figured out. I'm sure someone will be along to straighten out any missed items soon.

    Good luck and thanks for serving.
    Sorry, I come from the world of long range. Forgive my ignorance.

  6. #6
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    I went with 1:11.25 twist. I researched this project roughly 8 years ago and that seemed to be the twist to go with then. Most folks say it will handle 175 grain loads so I figured to just stick with that. Other specs on the barrel are 21.5" M24 contour unfluted.

  7. #7
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    welcome to the crazy world of custom guns

    just some thoughts...


    m24 contour is heavy as balls. i'd rather have a 24-26" medium palma type contour. if you are concerned about having a short system for moving around in a car or something, look at all the good options for folding stocks instead of cutting your velocity. (manners, whiskey-3, XLR, AICS, etc). while something like the XLR or AICS does look a little more expensive at first, consider that you don't have to bed it and you don't need bottom metal. it could actually wind up being cheaper.

    don't forget to budget a little extra for some cerakote or something on the bbl. and for the muzzle threading.

    bartlein is definitely a great choice, but i wasn't aware they offered gunsmithing services like chambering it and installing it.


    i'd pass on the surefire brake/can, unless you already have the can. thunderbeast is the way to go for precision rifles.

  8. #8
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    e.g. B&C stock on sale now at brownells for $440. cheapest DBM they have is $300. You're already just $10 short of the list price for the XLR chassis.

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    Yes, Bartlein does offer services. It was on their website and it is all set to go when the barrel is done. Its funny you mention barrel length - another member on here said I shouldn't go over 18" for .308.

    I was looking at the Manners stocks as well. You have me eyeing up their mini chassis now. Although their stock I like with the mini chassis would put me in the AI range. Decisions, decisions.... The only reason I was considering HS was if I can get a smoking good deal on it.

  10. #10
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    cool, i had no idea.


    well, i guess their definition of 'precision' is different than mine.


    manners mini chassis are definitely nice. long wait, but i guess that won't matter for you so much. it comes down to whether you like a pistol grip, thumb hole or palm swell.

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