You need to find somebody who knows 100 percent how to shoot and you need to set the sights back to mechanical zero and then retry it. Out of curiosity what kind of ammo are we talking about and do you know 100 percent the ammo isn't jacked up?
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You need to find somebody who knows 100 percent how to shoot and you need to set the sights back to mechanical zero and then retry it. Out of curiosity what kind of ammo are we talking about and do you know 100 percent the ammo isn't jacked up?
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Ditto IG above, but something I noticed when I switched from mausers to AR's, is anticipating the recoil. You're used to a big boom, and get a little crack, but flinch anyway.
Which aperture did you use when you zeroed your sight's?
The ammo I used with the first target was PMC 55 Gr. FMJ and the second target was Federal M193. I don’t reload, and have never shot any reloads, and don’t plan to. All my ammo is all factory new ammo.
I’m no expert when it comes to shooting. No formal training. Learned from my father starting at the age of 5. It’s a hobby, but when I have trouble hitting a target, it takes some of the enjoyment out of it. The other day was the first time shooting the 30-06 in over 25 years. In all that time, the heaviest recoiling rifle I’ve shot has been my AK. I probably have more rounds thru my AR than the 30-06 and AK combined.
I video taped the 30-06 and 6920 shots the other day, and with the Colt, I did not get the mag seated in, so there was nothing in the chamber for the first round, and I did flinch. Had I not had the camera on, I would say I did Not Flinch. Do I flinch all the time with the Colt? No. It seems to be hit or miss when inserting a mag on a closed bolt as to whether it will seat or not, and I’ve got in the habit of whacking the mag with my hand, but it still does not seat sometimes, so I have flinching and no flinching on camera. Sometimes when I feel myself flinch, or thinking I might be, I will close my eyes and do some dry firing to get a feel for when the trigger is going to break, and when I go back to live firing after doing the dry firing, my groups will improve.
Gary
Will Fly for Food... and more Ammo
Alcohol, Tobacco, & Firearms should be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency.
Something does seem to be a little funky because I've had groups that size at 100 with a lightweight DD barrel. That's using irons with the rear sitting crooked on the upper too, small aperture since it was daytime. Looks like your rifle isn't inherently inaccurate though a little on the larger grouping side. Is there anyone you know who could locally check your rifle for accuracy issues?
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Start your zeroing at 25 yards if you don't have a bore-sight to get you on paper.
If you want to shoot small groups, you seriously need to be using the small aperture, or preferably a decent optic.
Other than having cleaned it, what did you do different this time? When shooting from a bench, how are you resting the rifle?
It's possible the barrel nut isn't torqued to full value which will allow the barrel assembly to shift around in the upper receiver. Unless it's really loose, you probably won't be able to see it unless you remove the gas tube and re-torque it.
Unless your cheekweld is inconsistent, you should not be getting groups like your first photo simply from using a larger aperture. I shot larger apertures all the time because my eyes aren't as young as they used to be
Last edited by MistWolf; 07-19-13 at 14:06.
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Wouldn't the complete missing of the target with smaller aperture point to eyesight issues? OP do you wear reading glasses?
I would first move the target to 25 yards. Use the small aperture. Fire 10 rounds very slowly concentrating on the fundamentals of marksmanship. 5 rounds often don't tell the whole story. If you have just 2 fliers, a 5-round group is worthless. A 10 round group will truly let you know what's going on much better. I would certainly hope that at 25 yds, the rounds are at least on paper. From there you want to adjust windage and elevation. If you're not confident in the whole process, adjust one at a time. Make the adjustments big, and if you overadjust, just dial it back on the next group.
Next you have to decide what zero you want. 50, 100, 200yd, etc. For a 50 yd zero, your rounds should be impacting roughly an inch low at 25 yd. For a 100 yd zero, they should be roughly 2" low at 25 yd. After your rounds are impacting where you want at 25 yd, move the target out to the actual distance you want it zeroed. If you want, you can move to 50 yds first, and then 100 yds. Then fire 10 more rounds slowly. It should be approximately on, but chances are that you'll have to fine tune at the distance you actually zero at. I would fire 10 rounds per string. While some say that you're wasting ammo, I would completely disagree. For every shot you fire, you should be practicing and honing your fundamentals. That's never a waste of ammo. Just my opinion. Your rifle is only zeroed at the distance that you actually zeroed it at. You can't say you have a 200 yd zero if you zeroed it at 50 yds and say that it "should be close at 200 yd." Not true. You'll have to shoot at 200 to fine tune and confirm.
Last edited by FChen17213; 07-19-13 at 16:41.
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