You have quality parts and by your list only need an lpk tand gas tube to have a nice gun in working order. why change plans now?
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You have quality parts and by your list only need an lpk tand gas tube to have a nice gun in working order. why change plans now?
You'd be better off by buying a well made piston upper than trying to throw a set screw gas block on a barrel. There are very few companies that produce good piston uppers so if you want to pick one up you're going to need to take a very dedicated look at the various options available. A good place to start would be here
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=107613
Many well built DI guns suit the needs of both casual and dedicated shooters so don't overlook that option as well just make sure your gas block is pinned. That way you can expect it to stay where it needs to be.
¡¡Kawaii Desu Ne Haruhi-Chan!!
You have the start to a great build, no need to change it up. Finish your current build, if you see the need for a piston later down the road, the option will always be there.
Good equipment is no substitute for good training.
Dimple the barrel if not already. Knurl (if not factory done) the set screw and then stake it after using Loctite 271. Green loctite on the inside of the GB. Its not going to move.
And all this combined maybe overkill to some but this is what I do.
Pinning is best but if its done right a set screw GB isn't going anywhere.
Good on you for going DI.
-Jax
I wish I'd had your good sense on components when I started building. But then I would not have all the extra parts I changed out for better.
Except for brand of lower (which I'm sure will work fine) yours looks like my idea of a near ideal build. I do prefer the new CMR to the C4 rail since the width better fits my stubby fingers.
The beasts of modernism have mutated into the beasts of postmodernism—relativism into nihilism, amorality into immorality, irrationality into insanity, sexual deviancy into polymorphous perversity. And since then, generations of intelligent students under the guidance of their enlightened professors have looked into the abyss, have contemplated those beasts, and have said, “How interesting, how exciting.”
—Gertrude Himmelfarb, On Looking into the Abyss (1994)
What are your concerns with the lower? I was under the impression that mil-spec lowers are basically all the same (with the exception of ambis like AXTS).
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any piston kit that is DIY is a joke. only good pistons are ones that were fully redesigned to run that specific system (HK, LWRC, LMT). stick with ur excellent list of DI parts and never look back.
BURY ME WITH MY GUNS ON
Since you've already seen part of the light and you're skipping the piston business, I'll try and set you up with a little nugget of gold.
DI/Inline pistons/whatever you want to call them, ARE NOT sensitive to being dirty. It's a total mischaracterization of what they need to run well for all of eternity, which is lubrication. You do not need to get carried away with a chamber brush, scrape carbon off the bolt, use pipe cleaners in gas tubes, nor use any crazy chemicals. If you want to clean parts to a pristine condition once in a while to inspect them for wear/cracking that's fine, just be careful and don't believe the notion that you're doing anything for the reliability of the weapon.
A properly built, properly spec'd, and properly lubed AR will run all day long with all sorts of ammo unless you introduce variables that will shut down a piston gun with a quickness as well like sand in the chamber or bad magazines.
Good to go, will run all day long:
Clean and well lubricated.
Dirty and well lubricated.
Will run for a while:
Clean and dry.
Will not run:
Dirty and dry.
My 3-gun rifle has many thousands of rounds through it without any type of cleaning whatsoever, in fact I often don't even break it apart to lube it, I often just squirt lube through the gas ports of the bolt carrier.
Last edited by thopkins22; 08-23-13 at 00:20.
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