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Thread: Fortis Rev installation without moving FSP?

  1. #11
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    We can't help you if you don't provide us more details about your configuration. If you want to go it alone, by all means sally forth.



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  2. #12
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    ok my midlength I got from Grant is this model
    correction http://www.gandrtactical.com/cgi-bin...&key=MID-750-C
    BCM® Mid-16 (Govt Profile) will feature:

    BCMGUNFIGHTER™ Mod 4 Charging Handle
    BCMGUNFIGHTER Grip MOD 1 Blk
    Mid Length Gas System
    M4 Feed Ramp Barrel Extension
    M4 Feed Ramp Flat Top Receiver
    T-Marked Upper Receivers
    USGI 5.56mm NATO Chambers
    Independently Certified Mil-Spec 11595E Barrel Steel
    Chrome Lined Bore and Chamber
    Manganese Phosphate Barrel Finish on entire barrel
    Mil-Spec F-Marked Forged Front Sights
    Taper Pinned Front Sight Base
    USGI Government Profile Barrels
    HPT (High Pressure Test, per Milspec) Barrels
    MPI (Magnetic Particle Inspected, per Milspec) Barrels
    Bolt machined from Mil-Spec Carpenter No. 158® steel
    HPT Bolt (High Pressure Tested/ Proof)
    MPI Bolt (Magnetic Particle Inspected)
    Shot Peened Bolt
    Chrome Lined Carrier (AUTO)
    Chrome Lined Gas Key
    Gas Key Hardened to USGI Specifications
    Grade 8 Hardened Fasteners Key
    Staked Per Mil-Spec
    Tool Steel Extractor
    BCM® Extractor Spring
    Black Extractor Insert
    Receivers Machined from Aluminum Forgings 7075-T6
    Receivers Hardcoat Anodize per MIL-A-8625F, Type III, Class 2
    BCM® Milspec 7075-T6 Receiver Extension
    USGI Mold M4 Stock Staked M4 Lock Nut
    USGI H Buffer (1 USGI Tungsten, 2 Steel)
    Magpul MOE Enhanced Trigger Guard
    Low Shelf for RDIAS installation
    Low Shelf for Accuwedge use
    Un-notched Hammer compatible with 9mm use
    Fire Controls marked SAFE and SEMI
    it has an A2 Front Sight/Gas Block
    Facing down the barrel, the right side has a stamp "82" and left side "F"

    it has an A2 muzzle which I was already removed.

    I'm trying to install an 9" Fortis Rev on it. I want to keep the A2 Front sight/gas block once the Fortis is slid in.

    I've remove the handguard cap and Delta ring already.
    Last edited by Ledanek; 09-15-13 at 19:54.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ledanek View Post
    ok my midlength I got from Grant is this model
    http://www.gandrtactical.com/cgi-bin...ey=MID-750-LWC

    it has an A2 Front Sight/Gas Block
    Facing down the barrel, the right side has a stamp "82" and left side "F"

    it has an A2 muzzle which I was already removed.

    I'm trying to install an 9" Fortis Rev on it. I want to keep the A2 Front sight/gas block once the Fortis is slid in.

    I've remove the handguard cap and Delta ring already.
    Thank you. Now this makes it easier.

    So you need help now removing the FSB correct?

    Per BCM:
    https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=41732

    "From speaking with customers, it seems BCM FSB taper pins are harder to remove than some others. When we do it here, we can knock the pins free in under 60 seconds.
    Here are some basic pointers on the way we remove them.

    1) It takes Two. You will need a buddy to hold the upper group stable as you pound out the pins. You will not be able to get a good concentrated force on the pins if the upper is wobbling around (even a little bit).

    2) Action Jackson. You will need a couple of action blocks (see Brownells for a good selection). These will be great platforms to stabilize the barrel. Also get the Brownells FSB block. You may have to mod the shape of the FSB block if using a free float.

    3) Installed from starboard side. Milspec FSB are drill and the reamed for taper pins. The reamer runs from the right to the left (pointing the muzzle at the bad guy). So BCM pins need to be removed from left to right. Cannot be done the opposite way.

    4) Secure that carbine. Using action blocks and the buddy system secure the upper group so the left side is facing up.

    5) Get a fat one. We do not use those small radius head punches to break the pins free. We use a much fatter punch (5/16”). It’s a meaty sucker. Lots to hang on to, and enables you to put some force on the hammer. Using a 5/16” punch and a 12oz hammer, give her a smack. Anywhere between 1 and 6 smacks, and the pin moves. All you want to do is to get it to move to about flush.

    6) Grab a skinny one. Now get the tiny little 1/8” punch to push the pins out of the FSB. They are already broken free, this just drives the fully out. Tap, tap, tap.

    7) Celebrate. You are done. "

  4. #14
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    thank you so much....I'm going to cool down and come at it later on the garage floor.

    couple scare:
    --- after sliding the Fortis, it swayed up and down...momentary panic....later when all screws were tightened, zero sway.
    --- forgot to wipe the carbon off while it was not on the barrel...removed Fortis, wiped, reinstall.
    --- pins in, front sight, veering off to the right...panic...reset the pins, positioned the front sight...(should have left a tick mark before removing) didn't line up with the rail...could it be the rail that is off?

    Reset, adjust the pin, tapped in more gentle this time...

    now lined up...going to get the Aimpoint H1 and see if it sits where it was last time.
    --- now, everything seems lined up, I placed the A2 muzzle back. Had to go back and forth to get almost lined up....going to post a picture later so you can see what I mean.



    Going to rest for now. Tomorrow will be another day.

    Thanks to everyone.
    Last edited by Ledanek; 09-15-13 at 22:13. Reason: pictures added

  5. #15
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    Call me crazy, but IIRC you need to replace the crush washer on that muzzle device before reinstalling. They're a single use item.

  6. #16
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by _Stormin_ View Post
    Call me crazy, but IIRC you need to replace the crush washer on that muzzle device before reinstalling. They're a single use item.
    If true, where's a good site to buy that supports M4C?
    If true, it's a good excuse to replace my muzzle, just not sure what's most recommended muzzle.

  7. #17
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    Crush washers are a one time use item. There are multiple devices on the market. Two that come to mind immediately are the Battle Comp and the Bravo Comp MOD 0.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ledanek View Post
    If true, where's a good site to buy that supports M4C?
    If true, it's a good excuse to replace my muzzle, just not sure what's most recommended muzzle.



    Owner/Instructor at Semper Paratus Arms

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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ledanek View Post
    If true, where's a good site to buy that supports M4C?
    If true, it's a good excuse to replace my muzzle, just not sure what's most recommended muzzle.
    Depends if you want a flash hider or compensator

  9. #19
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    I am curious about something. This rail uses a standard barrel nut. So why did you remove the flash hider, FSB and delta ring to install it?



    Owner/Instructor at Semper Paratus Arms

    Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/SemperParatusArms/

    Semper Paratus Arms AR15 Armorer Course http://www.semperparatusarms.com/cou...-registration/

    M4C Misc. Training and Course Announcements- http://www.m4carbine.net/forumdisplay.php?f=141

    Master Armorer/R&D at SIONICS Weapon Systems- http://sionicsweaponsystems.com

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    I am curious about something. This rail uses a standard barrel nut. So why did you remove the flash hider, FSB and delta ring to install it?
    I believe it's a one piece rail, so it has to slide on and the FSB prevents that from happening
    Gun and Gear Reviews- www.almosttacticalreviews.com

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