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Thread: Removing dimpled style castle nut off of SR15 (or how I destroyed the wrench)

  1. #1
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    Removing dimpled style castle nut off of SR15 (or how I destroyed the wrench)

    So it has come to this...


    I snapped the nub on the shitty DPMS wrench. No surprise there.

    The surprise was that after destroying two of the four holes by trying to use a punch and hammer (and flowing the metal into a teardrop shape) that sucker hasn't budged. I want to leave the option of something to grab so I haven't attempted on the other two holes.

    I guess some heat would help, but its not really an area I'd like to apply much heat to (grip area near by, small springs, etc). There is a substance that seems it was applied to the threads, sometime of thread locker maybe?

    I need to try some penetrating oil, and some heat. At this point the only option I really have is a punch. What am I doing wrong?

    Have I missed anything?

  2. #2
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    Search the site and you will see that KAC applies Loctite to those castle nuts. You are going to need to break the 271 (IIRC) first.

    Quote Originally Posted by ClosetCaseNerd View Post
    So it has come to this...


    I snapped the nub on the shitty DPMS wrench. No surprise there.

    The surprise was that after destroying two of the four holes by trying to use a punch and hammer (and flowing the metal into a teardrop shape) that sucker hasn't budged. I want to leave the option of something to grab so I haven't attempted on the other two holes.

    I guess some heat would help, but its not really an area I'd like to apply much heat to (grip area near by, small springs, etc). There is a substance that seems it was applied to the threads, sometime of thread locker maybe?

    I need to try some penetrating oil, and some heat. At this point the only option I really have is a punch. What am I doing wrong?

    Have I missed anything?



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  3. #3
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    There's no loctite on the SR-15. Its just torque.

    Heat can help (let it cool a bit). I used a pair of channel locks and was able to remove it quite easily. Only a faint mark from the pliers, no gouging.

  4. #4
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    I could have sworn I read somewhere here where some people found Loc-tite on the receiver extensions. I must be mistaken.

    Quote Originally Posted by buckjay View Post
    There's no loctite on the SR-15. Its just torque.

    Heat can help (let it cool a bit). I used a pair of channel locks and was able to remove it quite easily. Only a faint mark from the pliers, no gouging.



    Owner/Instructor at Semper Paratus Arms

    Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/SemperParatusArms/

    Semper Paratus Arms AR15 Armorer Course http://www.semperparatusarms.com/cou...-registration/

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    Master Armorer/R&D at SIONICS Weapon Systems- http://sionicsweaponsystems.com

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckjay View Post
    There's no loctite on the SR-15. Its just torque.

    Heat can help (let it cool a bit). I used a pair of channel locks and was able to remove it quite easily. Only a faint mark from the pliers, no gouging.
    I am here to tell you there is certainly something on the threads of the receiver extension. It appears to be a clear liquid of some sort that I can see.

  6. #6
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    Get yourself the Daniel Defense wrench. It's not ultra sturdy and may warp a little bit but it's 20x more sturdy than the cheap cast DPMS or NCstar wrenches which can't take any amount of torque.

    I may have a few of the Daniel Defense wrenches around because they come with some of the rail systems.


    I can not speak if loctite is on the KAC threads but heat always helps a stuck nuts (even with some loctites). I like to apply constant gentle heat from a plumbers propane torch moving the flame around the nut so it heats evenly over a slow period of time (maybe a minute or two as necessary). I also wear thick leather gloves to help from getting more hospital visits and scars than I already have.
    -Thomas

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  7. #7
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    There was definitely some kind of thread locker on my SR-15 receiver extension when i took it off. I've had this lower for +15 years, so i can't speak for newer ones.

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    I don't remember there being any on the SR-15 I had a year or two ago. There was a good deal of torque though. Locktite will look like a compacted powder when dry, not a clear liquid.

    The better wrenches will lock into at least three points on the nut.

    Crappy wrenches...one.

  9. #9
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    Current SR15s do not have any thread locker on the end plate retainer nut. They are torqued on.

    We use a Brownells wrench (I posted about it before, will see if I can find it when I'm behind something other than my phone), however, it might not matter if you have mangled all of the holes.

    If I get a nut that doesn't want to spin, I will hit it with heat for enough time to warm up the nut but not the receiver extension, hit it with some penetrating oil and then re-attack with force.
    It might take a few heat cycles. Don't get frustrated and try to gorilla it.



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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bp7178 View Post
    I don't remember there being any on the SR-15 I had a year or two ago. There was a good deal of torque though. Locktite will look like a compacted powder when dry, not a clear liquid.

    The better wrenches will lock into at least three points on the nut.

    Crappy wrenches...one.
    That does not apply to the old style dimpled-circular nuts KAC uses.
    The right tool for the job ==> http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...NELLS&psize=96
    I would also buy some spare pins... http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...NELLS&psize=96
    Last edited by E-man930; 09-19-13 at 19:56.

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