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Thread: Removing dimpled style castle nut off of SR15 (or how I destroyed the wrench)

  1. #11
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    This whole issue is one of the reasons I bought one of these!

    http://primaryweapons.com/store/pc/v...&idcategory=21

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    Current SR15s do not have any thread locker on the end plate retainer nut. They are torqued on.

    We use a Brownells wrench (I posted about it before, will see if I can find it when I'm behind something other than my phone), however, it might not matter if you have mangled all of the holes.

    If I get a nut that doesn't want to spin, I will hit it with heat for enough time to warm up the nut but not the receiver extension, hit it with some penetrating oil and then re-attack with force.
    It might take a few heat cycles. Don't get frustrated and try to gorilla it.



    Typos brought to you via Tapatalk and autocorrect.
    No Loctite, no staking, what kind of torque are you using?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-man930 View Post
    That does not apply to the old style dimpled-circular nuts KAC uses.
    The right tool for the job ==> http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...NELLS&psize=96
    I would also buy some spare pins... http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...NELLS&psize=96
    That's for the really old style nuts, the ones that only had the holes and no squares. I haven't seen one of those in quite a long time, and even then it was in a bin at a gun show.

  4. #14
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    Well that is what KAC is using on their SR-15s...

  5. #15
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    Not mine or any I've seen.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClosetCaseNerd View Post
    What am I doing wrong?

    Have I missed anything?
    Yes...

    How are you fixturing your lower receiver? Using a magazine well block is asking for trouble. You should either be holding the receiver extension or the receiver itself in padded jaws very close to the extension.



    Last edited by MarkG; 09-20-13 at 08:48.

  7. #17
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    MK18Pilot;

    Good photos. My only (and minor) objection would on the one holding the tube. I try to "choke up" in situations like that, and clamp the tube as close as I can to the nut, leaving only clearance for the wrench.

    Otherwise, nice pics.

    And for those looking to try the heat approach, you have two tasks with heat; break the chemical bond of the fixed thread-locker, and to expand the nut.

    Heat the nut and apply penetrating oil. let cool. Heat and repeat. Then, on the third time (or as many as patience permits) heat the nut, and then use compressed air on the inside of the buffer tube, to cool it, and shrink it down from the nut.

    The first time I used the patience approach, when I put the wrench on, the nut was so loose I almost hurt myself unscrewing it.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bp7178 View Post
    That's for the really old style nuts, the ones that only had the holes and no squares. I haven't seen one of those in quite a long time, and even then it was in a bin at a gun show.
    Nope, it comes with interchangeable/replaceable pins for both round holes and square holes. It's a very sturdy wrench and works well.

  9. #19
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    I've broken free some aggressively staked nuts with the three point style wrench.

    That would be my choice over a single point style, considering I've broken one of them.

    Screwing them on is another story, that's always the easy part.

  10. #20
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    I have destroyed a receiver extension doing the same thing. I ended up stripping the threads on the tube due to an indiscretion with using loctite. Now I only tighten the castle nut and stake.

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