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Thread: Grip screw torque value: creating a max specification?

  1. #11
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    There's no need for the threads to be dripping with Loctite. ONE small drop is all that's needed. If you're that concerned about a trace amount of it touching the grip, rub your finger across the Loctite drop, and flow it into the threads a little bit, before you insert the screw.
    [Put something funny here]

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    There is no torque value. Often. times the resistance is due to the large amount of thread locker on the screw. All you need to do is snug the screw. Of course using the star lock washer helps.
    I never really gave it any concern because of the star lock washer that digs into the plastic from the grip. I give it a good snug fit, making sure I have the star washer, and be done with it. I generally don't even put locktite with the star washer.
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  3. #13
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    Loctite 242 is not acceptable for this purpose. Loctite 242 requires active surfaces. The often plated, and definitely passivated stainless screw plus anodized threads are decidedly non-reactive and will lead to a very weak "bond" with 242, likely, the only resistance it would provide is either far below the rated spec for that thread-locker, or it would only provide an interference fit for the threads by "filling the space" which makes up most of a screw/hole interface. Loctite 243 is what one would use if they wanted any reasonable bonding between the materials discussed.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by CGS View Post
    I never really gave it any concern because of the star lock washer that digs into the plastic from the grip. I give it a good snug fit, making sure I have the star washer, and be done with it. I generally don't even put locktite with the star washer.
    Neither Daniel Defense nor Noveske use threadlocker with the starwasher, on their complete guns, IME.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6 View Post
    Neither Daniel Defense nor Noveske use threadlocker with the starwasher, on their complete guns, IME.
    Neither does Colt. As long as the points on the star washer are compressed, it's tight enough. There is very little torque on a Colt grip screw, you can literally hold the screw driver between your thumb and forefinger to take 'em off.

    I always throw the Magpul screw away. They're shit quality and ruined with that glue they gob on 'em.

    I had a box of hex-head cap screws that were cad plated and when used with a star washer were the best. With a hex-head it's very easy to get the screw started.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6 View Post
    Loctite 242 is not acceptable for this purpose. Loctite 242 requires active surfaces. The often plated, and definitely passivated stainless screw plus anodized threads are decidedly non-reactive and will lead to a very weak "bond" with 242, likely, the only resistance it would provide is either far below the rated spec for that thread-locker, or it would only provide an interference fit for the threads by "filling the space" which makes up most of a screw/hole interface. Loctite 243 is what one would use if they wanted any reasonable bonding between the materials discussed.
    This is very true.

    Once I found out about 243 and 263 I switched over to them PDQ. It sure beats having to use a primer every time I need to Loctite something.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by samuse View Post
    Neither does Colt. As long as the points on the star washer are compressed, it's tight enough. There is very little torque on a Colt grip screw, you can literally hold the screw driver between your thumb and forefinger to take 'em off.

    I always throw the Magpul screw away. They're shit quality and ruined with that glue they gob on 'em.

    I had a box of hex-head cap screws that were cad plated and when used with a star washer were the best. With a hex-head it's very easy to get the screw started.
    Colt's combination of screw and washer does not actually work together correctly. The Colt fillister head screw does not compress the locking tabs on the washer at all. The result is basically the same as what would happen when using a regular flat washer.

    I also like the hex head screws for use on the pistol grip but you need to use an internal tooth lock washer with them, an internal tooth lock washer would also work with Colt's fillister head screw.

  8. #18
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    I have used the 35 inch-pounds of torque as recommended and it has worked out for me.

    That number came from Bill Alexander so it should be accurate.

    http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_2_431/2...que_spec_.html

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by 556Cliff View Post
    Colt's combination of screw and washer does not actually work together correctly. The Colt fillister head screw does not compress the locking tabs on the washer at all. The result is basically the same as what would happen when using a regular flat washer.
    Complete BS...

  10. #20
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    Not sure how you came to this conclusion, but I will say that I disagree. I have never seen a fillister head screw and washer combination come loose that was properly installed and in spec.

    In addition I have looked at the bottom of the screw and could visibly see that the serrations of the lock washer visibly left a mark on the underside. It seems very odd that this combination has worked for about 50 years with no issues. In fact most of the so-called horror stories/ my Colt was crap stuff almost always involves copious amounts of stupidity along with I didn't know better.

    Quote Originally Posted by 556Cliff View Post
    Colt's combination of screw and washer does not actually work together correctly. The Colt fillister head screw does not compress the locking tabs on the washer at all. The result is basically the same as what would happen when using a regular flat washer.

    I also like the hex head screws for use on the pistol grip but you need to use an internal tooth lock washer with them, an internal tooth lock washer would also work with Colt's fillister head screw.



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