Rosch Works SL-1 integrated sight/light

[jerrysimons]

The thread pitch is .050" (20tpi). The throw length of the switch internally is set by how much the cap is rotated back away from constant on. Half a turn would be .025". 1/3 of a turn about .017".

It is quite true that if the cap is screwed tight to constant on, then backed off less than approx 1/4 turn (throw = .0125") that you can turn the unit on by pressing the tailcap to the side (rocking it slightly). This region of operation is not recommended but one of our highly expert testers actually does set his up that way sometimes.

When the cap is backed off about .4 turns to .02" throw, there is no danger of inadvertent on by touching the tailcap.

There is no way of achieving .1" of throw. That's two full turns away from constant on and is definitely way past the point of any possible activation.

Just trying to get the numbers right here. Not sure this minutiae helps the majority of shooters so apologies to you all.

Many people will decide to set up by screwing the tailcap all the way closed (constant on) and then back off 1/2 turn. That's .025" throw and well away from the subtleties mentioned above. 1/2 more turn back and it's off entirely.

Thanks for the numbers there, I definitely over estimated it at a couple millimeters then.

[jerrysimons]

I love this thing! The sight picture is great. Using the light is super fast and intuitive
(Sorry for the crap pics).

[C_1]

Not sure why it took this long for someone to come out with an integrated sight/light. But smart move working with Gene Malkoff. The SL1 looks promising.

[WS6]

As far as the light components themselves, I believe its safe to say that Malkoff is on par with Surefire and has been used pretty extensively for years now. The Elzetta lights are very rugged using Malkoff drop ins also...

I've owned Malkoff products before, have for the last half decade. Malkoff and I have spoken, and the guy is one of those people that you just want to make successful. He started out wanting a light to see vermin attacking his chickens, he showed a few of them around, people begged him to make them one, and so it went. His drivers, LED's, and reflectors (partnership with Don McLeash/McGizmo, after he moved away from TIR's) are all top-notch.

My question/concern is with the 2-piece design of the whole affair. It still seems a bit "hobbyist" to me in that regard. If it were a 1-peice affair, I think it would be more stable, more solid, and the price would be MUCH easier to justify (not that it isn't worth that).

ETA: Do I have things wrong? It looks like the device is actually 3 parts...a tube, and two halves. -OR- Is the tube permanently joined to the "two halves", and they only clamp onto the rail, and the FSP, but the tube will NEVER move within them (on or off the weapon), as it is integrated/welded/glued/whatever?

Basically...3-peice, or 1-piece, regardless of the screws?

Other questions:

-Is the bezel ring steel or plastic?

-What is the lens made of...polycarbonate, pyrex, or sapphire?

-Will this interface with VME heads (scout heads are the same, "E" series)?

-There is a lot Malkoff can do with tint. If you order in quantity, you can request anything you like, but I have found that 5500-6500K works best on people. An AMIS/Shivworks class proved that point real fast. We aren't hunting flowers at night, we are trying to pump out some eye-searing light to see, and if we get lucky, maybe make spots in some vision for someone with.

-These are likely fully thermally potted. IMO, Malkoff electronics are a lot "harder" than Surefire's. Gene Malkoff will use 3 nails and a bolt when 2 nails would have probably done the job.


Further, I am 99% sure that these are fuctionally identical in raw capacility to Malkoff's current production MDC heads. I believe that 250 OTF lumens is a bit sand-bagged, personally, although I can't speak for it. Just a hunch, based on knowing how Gene does things, that's likely what it puts out after being on for a few minutes, crank-up is probably higher.
This is where the development for the guts for the ROSCH evolved:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...e-works/page24
http://flashlightguide.com/2013/05/malkoff-mdc-review/

[WS6]

Until it's been used EXTENSIVELY we cannot claim that it's on par with surefire.

The core of it is nearly a decade old and has been used extensively. Only the body, LED itself, and the drive has slowly evolved. The product has a very solid lineage. Think of it as Surefire G2X Pro having evolved from the Surefire G2. The Malkoff M60 is what started this, all back in the mid/latter 2000's. It's not an "all new" creation, regarding the parts that are most likely to go TU (LED/Potting/Etc.)

[rfscheer]

My question/concern is with the 2-piece design of the whole affair. It still seems a bit "hobbyist" to me in that regard. If it were a 1-peice affair, I think it would be more stable, more solid, and the price would be MUCH easier to justify (not that it isn't worth that).

ETA: Do I have things wrong? It looks like the device is actually 3 parts...a tube, and two halves. -OR- Is the tube permanently joined to the "two halves", and they only clamp onto the rail, and the FSP, but the tube will NEVER move within them (on or off the weapon), as it is integrated/welded/glued/whatever?

Basically...3-peice, or 1-piece, regardless of the screws?

Do these pics help answer your question(s)?

2x 7075-T6 billets mounted ready to start operation 1...


... after operation 1 (note the lighthead mounted on one of the still embedded bodies...


... after operations 1 and 2, prior to 4th axis op 3 ...


Therefore and hopefully put to rest - 1 piece body!

Something tells me I've just been duped into helping someone copy the SL1 but hey I'm kinda reacting to a general problem of transparency in the world atm if you catch my meaning.

[rfscheer]

Other questions:

-Is the bezel ring steel or plastic?

7075-T6 aluminum

-What is the lens made of...polycarbonate, pyrex, or sapphire?

optical acrylic with antireflective coating

-Will this interface with VME heads (scout heads are the same, "E" series)?

No. We can discuss this some other time and place.

-There is a lot Malkoff can do with tint. If you order in quantity, you can request anything you like, but I have found that 5500-6500K works best on people. An AMIS/Shivworks class proved that point real fast. We aren't hunting flowers at night, we are trying to pump out some eye-searing light to see, and if we get lucky, maybe make spots in some vision for someone with.

Cree XP-G2 R5, which gives the most lumens for the least current but is likely beyond 6500K. Works best on people? What are you talking about? Did you hurt any people in these experiments? JK

-These are likely fully thermally potted. IMO, Malkoff electronics are a lot "harder" than Surefire's. Gene Malkoff will use 3 nails and a bolt when 2 nails would have probably done the job.

The circuitry is thoroughly potted in thermally conductive epoxy. There are no nails, bolts or screws in there btw.

Further, I am 99% sure that these are fuctionally identical in raw capacility to Malkoff's current production MDC heads. I believe that 250 OTF lumens is a bit sand-bagged, personally, although I can't speak for it. Just a hunch, based on knowing how Gene does things, that's likely what it puts out after being on for a few minutes, crank-up is probably higher.
This is where the development for the guts for the ROSCH evolved:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...e-works/page24
http://flashlightguide.com/2013/05/malkoff-mdc-review/

Yes and no. Yes, the guts are the same as his M31 head. No not the same as the project you mention above. Maybe Gene will weigh in at some point but the main point is that the foundation of the light is thoroughly time and field tested.

[CoryCop25]

Snatching Jersey's pic for this question.....

If this is a one piece design, what is the purpose of the split and the bolt at the top by the sight post? Is this because a spring and detent for the front sight is not doable?
I just think that split in the metal on the top will cause confusion during sighting and bring unwanted light through the crack.

[rfscheer]

Snatching Jersey's pic for this question.....

If this is a one piece design, what is the purpose of the split and the bolt at the top by the sight post? Is this because a spring and detent for the front sight is not doable?
I just think that split in the metal on the top will cause confusion during sighting and bring unwanted light through the crack.

The split in the sightbase creates a vice that is then squeezed tight around the sightpost with a cross-clamping screw and nut to lock it in place.

The cross-clamp screw blocks light coming through that slot.

The first prototypes of SL1 tried traditional spring & detent variations but there just isn't enough vertical room to make it work without sacrificing adjustment range or using several different sightpost heights.

This sightpost mechanism is reasonably innovative imho and does the job well, but the need to innovate here has probably scared off a few previous attempts to design a combined light + sight.

edit added - If there is still confusion/questions about the sightpost clamping mechanism, we can zoom in on that section for a detailed explanation if you want.

[rfscheer]

Not to beat a dead horse, but I'm slowly realizing people aren't all understanding how the clamps work.

There are 2 cross bolts or screws in the SL1. The lower one tightens the rail clamp and the upper one tightens the sightpost clamp.

The body is a one-piece unit with two clamps built into its shape.

The rail clamp is made from the legs projecting from the sides of the body. When the rail clamp screw is tightened, the legs bend like tweezers except the leverage is quite high. The screw really needs no thread locker because the spring force of the legs creates huge friction when the clamp is tight.

The sightpost clamp works just like the rail clamp with the tweezer-vice created by the slot and hole through the sightbase.