Rosch Works SL-1 integrated sight/light

[Moose-Knuckle]

I'm digging this light/sight combo. I've been looking at the TD FFA-01 and have held off due to the accessibility of my SF X300's battery compartment.

[jerrysimons]

Mr. Pannone mentions the slim sight post thickness, it is about in between the thickness of the KAC Micro front and the standard post.

After looking at the DD FFS next to the SL1, the SL1 could benefit from the glare reducing serrations on the face of the DD FFS.

[rfscheer]

The button press is definitely workable. Even as I would prefer a lighter/smoother press, since the flush tail cap is enough to prevent accidental activation IMO, it is not that noticeable unless you have the tail cap loosened too much.

I applaud your decision to stand by momentary only press buttons.

There is always the temptation to design for aesthetics vs. function. Aesthetically, lights should be white (or whatever your pref) and switches should have a pleasing stroke and have as many features as possible. Functionally, the SL1 switch throw is matched to the human digit, the hand position, the least impact on aiming and the fastest action possible with minimal chance of accident. The range of motion of the SL1 switch is based on how far back the cap is twisted, but would typically be around 0.020". That's a fast switch. You'll have to determine whether the goal of minimal affect on aiming was achieved for you.

Mike Pannone mentions a tape switch cap in the works?

Several actually, but the first one out the door will be an adapter that mounts SureFire E-series tailcaps, which include those with pressure pads. It's about a month from finishing up and going up for sale. I've spent many hours on this topic and none of it pleasant. I realize that half of all of you use ghetto grips and want pressure pads but I just don't go there happily. PP cables/switches need to carry amps of current with low resistance, the cord can easily get hung up on stuff, they have horrible actions requiring delicacy to avoid accidents and are often not ambidextrous. Etc. But yes, soon.

Mr. Pannone mentions the slim sight post thickness, it is about in between the thickness of the KAC Micro front and the standard post.

.062" - no, not the skinniest model on the cat walk, but if I recall it's the milstd width. Many out there are .072". If there's a demand, we can easily make a .037" width or ...

Is the driver boost or boost/buck?

It's a unique, proprietary boost circuit by Malkoff. It's made specifically for the case of 1x CR123 supplying over an amp of current. In this specific case, the voltage supply is never greater than the diode voltage and so a buck/boost is not appropriate. Of more importance, the light level will decline gracefully for quite awhile after running at peak for about 50 minutes until the battery is dead at about 1.8 volts if I recall it right.

[rfscheer]

After looking at the DD FFS next to the SL1, the SL1 could benefit from the glare reducing serrations on the face of the DD FFS.

That was definitely considered and we knew that people would say this. You don't want glare back in your eyes, that's for sure. There's a big difference in area facing rearwards between the SL1 and the DD so their problem to solve was much bigger than ours. My solution for the "problem" is not steps ala DD but an exponential rounding of that flat. Both steps and rounding ruined the look I was going for though. Looks vs. function again this time in favor of looks. Let's not overdo this issue though. My testing found this not to be a practical issue for the SL1 even though I purposely set the gun in the exact worst orientation to the sun, but if you all find otherwise, it's easy to make a small (ugly) design change and send you new bodies.

[rfscheer]

Hoping some of the first buyers (this was the first week of sales) will pop in here and relate their experience zeroing, targeting through optics and with irons and especially operating at night.

[militarymoron]

couple of pics mounted:

[Boss Hogg]

I'm blown away by how light and compact these lights are, and the output they provide. I will post a pic next to a Streamlight TLR-1. They really do cut down on the amount of space you take up on the top rail.

Hats off to Rosch Works on this. I wouldn't mind seeing them do one without the FSP to mount at 3 or 9 to activate with a thumbs-forward grip. That would be useful for rifles with existing FSB. RFScheer, not sure if that's in the works but just an idea. Again, great job!

[jerrysimons]

The tail cap edge slightly extends past the plane of the switch to prevent accidental activation.
Now I have previously noted how the switch stroke is adjustable depending how much you loosen the tail cap from fully tightened. Shortening the stroke by loosening just a small turn from full tight helps with the slightly stiff feel of the switch. I have discovered, however, that the accidental activation design of the tail cap is nullified when the switch throw is that short (0.020") due to the slight play in the thread tolerance. Essentially you don't have to press the switch button to activate the light when the throw is that short, all you have to press is the tail cap itself. In order to keep your accidental activation feature the tail cap must be loosened until you can not activate the light by pushing on the tail cap itself, and to where only the switch button will activate it (then I indexed that point with paint pen). With my light this is about 1/3rd of a turn loose from full tight, leaving about .10" (correction below) of switch throw to activation.

Also consider the thread tolerance when locking out the light. To truly lock it out you must loosen it to the point the light will not activate from both the switch button press and the button pressed with pressure on the tail cap body also.

I am not trying to nitpick this innovative product just note some of its quarks for other users

[rfscheer]

... .020" ... activating by pushing the tailcap .... 1/3 turn ... .1"...

The thread pitch is .050" (20tpi). The throw length of the switch internally is set by how much the cap is rotated back away from constant on. Half a turn would be .025". 1/3 of a turn about .017".

It is quite true that if the cap is screwed tight to constant on, then backed off less than approx 1/4 turn (throw = .0125") that you can turn the unit on by pressing the tailcap to the side (rocking it slightly). This region of operation is not recommended but one of our highly expert testers actually does set his up that way sometimes.

When the cap is backed off about .4 turns to .02" throw, there is no danger of inadvertent on by touching the tailcap.

There is no way of achieving .1" of throw. That's two full turns away from constant on and is definitely way past the point of any possible activation.

Just trying to get the numbers right here. Not sure this minutiae helps the majority of shooters so apologies to you all.

Many people will decide to set up by screwing the tailcap all the way closed (constant on) and then back off 1/2 turn. That's .025" throw and well away from the subtleties mentioned above. 1/2 more turn back and it's off entirely.

[rfscheer]

I'm blown away by how light and compact these lights are, and the output they provide. I will post a pic next to a Streamlight TLR-1. They really do cut down on the amount of space you take up on the top rail.

Hats off to Rosch Works on this.

Thanks!

I wouldn't mind seeing them do one without the FSP to mount at 3 or 9 to activate with a thumbs-forward grip. That would be useful for rifles with existing FSB. RFScheer, not sure if that's in the works but just an idea. Again, great job!

In truth, I've long considered doing this, especially considering that there are far more AR15's with FSB's and without free-floated forends, especially in the LE agencies. Let's take this off-line as it's really not fair to the OP intent of the thread.