I thought that since the hammer moves that there would be more of a sliding motion, thus some polishing effect rather than a hammering effect.
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I thought that since the hammer moves that there would be more of a sliding motion, thus some polishing effect rather than a hammering effect.
I don't want to talk out of turn, but I think when Jack referred to "M4", he was talking as much about this forum as the weapon system - and by reading some of the posts and figuring out who is who here, you probably will find that accuracy and precision are far from alien subjects to a lot of us... and your initial reply to the OP that he "(is) talking to mostly spray and pray enthusiasts" is far from the truth.
Please let me know if I have offended you...
I would like to move on to my next task.
I provide legal consultation and training - specializing in the Law of Gravity.
One reason I was interested in smoothing/polishing the hammer face is that I come from experience of tuning/polishing the FCG on other firearms from 1911s - 10/22s. Also, when I look at the face of an AR hammer, from most LPKs, they look like they were made in a 9th. grade metal shop class (yes, I am dating myself - they actually had metal shop when I was in the 9th. grade), with bumps and creases, so naturally I want to smooth that sucker. The Colt OEM (notched) hammers are very smooth. They should all look like that!
I had metal Shop in the 8th grade, so I am with you. But just let the parts burnish to each other by firing the weapon. The hammer face should be lubricated--I like TW-25 for this as it sticks on the surface better than CLP. etc.
I would not polish an AR hammer face unless there was a significant parting line (like from a casting) or other anomaly in the surface. And if this was present on a GI hammer, I'd replace it with a new one, so to keep the protective finish.
I also think in the olden days we polished M1911 hammer faces because it was easy to keep the stone plumb with the square hammer sides using a oiled piece of thick plate glass as a working surface (same with the hammer, etc.); and also because the Master Gunnery Sergeant told us to.
What I do like to polish on AR's are feed ramps. I use a Q-Tip impregnated with Smichrome Polish (from Brownells) in my Dremel. One of my old Dremel chucks takes the shaft of a Q-Tip just fine. But watch out for the over-spray. I stuff the chamber/locking recess with a patch to keep it from getting spattered. To me, this is akin to polishing pistol feed ramps.
ColdBlue sends...
(CB is David A. Lutz, Lt. Col. USMC (Ret'd) (1968-1991)
Former (now retired) VP MilOps @ Knight's Armament Company (KAC) (1994-2012)
"...if you can read this, thank a Teacher,
if you are reading this in English, thank a Veteran..."
I'm confused Coldblue...
You question the value of trying to reduce a significant source of friction in an action yet advocate polishing an area that more than likely has no effect whatsoever on the operation of the weapon. If you were advocating deburring the barrel extension and widening the feed ramps with a proper tool, I'd have nothing to say but +1.
Polish it. It won't hurt anything..... you might struggle to notice an improvement and then it will be in hand-cycling-gratification only, but hey, there's no harm in that. The hardness on these things is way deeper than you would go by getting 75% of the toolmarks out.
I routinely polish the face of a 1911 hammer.
-Thomas
Member, ISRA; Life Member, NRA; USCCA Certified Instructor; NRA Certified Instructor, AGI Certified Gunsmith, Illinois Concealed Carry Instructor
www.alphakoncepts.com www.gunrights4illinois.com
Go ahead and polish it. Let us know if there is any difference in the feel of the gun, hopefully better. Maybe this will add something to an already satisfying experience.
The Geissele in my rifle is very smooth. The area that rides on the carrier is worn to a mirror like finish. All I do is shoot it.
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