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Thread: Grip Screw seized up

  1. #41
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    My Umbrella Corp grip came with silver stuff on it. I took it off and simply used a star washer. Never failed me. Too many heart pounding experiences to put thread locker coated screws in there anymore.

  2. #42
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    On the grip screws Ive had from aftermarket companies,and a few manufacturers, that have had the thread lock compound on the screws I simply run a thread chaser down the screw,hose with CLP and wipe clean.This also helps eliminate any issues with thread pitch,or rough cut threads, discrepancy found on some of the screws before it even gets close to the lower.
    On rifles or grips supplied with hex head cap screws,in the past Ive simply cut a slot in the head to fit a flat blade driver....and can use either if needed in a pinch.
    Glock Certified Armorer
    Armed Protective Services II

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blankwaffe View Post
    On rifles or grips supplied with hex head cap screws,in the past Ive simply cut a slot in the head to fit a flat blade driver....and can use either if needed in a pinch.
    FYI I recently got a Magpul grip (MOE+) that came with a hex-head fastener which had a flat-head slot as well.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by freefly View Post
    FYI I recently got a Magpul grip (MOE+) that came with a hex-head fastener which had a flat-head slot as well.

    Thanks for the heads up, and I'd say two thumbs up to Magpul.About time somebody did it.
    Glock Certified Armorer
    Armed Protective Services II

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blankwaffe View Post
    Thanks for the heads up, and I'd say two thumbs up to Magpul.About time somebody did it.
    Agree with that. One thing is for sure. Any grip I get that comes with screw that has pre-applied thread locker, whether it's hex or slot screw, I heat it up and remove the thread locker with a wire wheel. I screw the grip screw in and out without the pistol grip once. Then a star washer and blue loc-tite.

  6. #46
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    Either one of these should solve the immediate problem. I have used these in the past and they both work quite well.

    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NNMZN8/...SIN=B001NNMZN8

    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003d

    E-DUB
    When injustice becomes law, rebellion becomes duty. Thomas Jefferson


  7. #47
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    I occasionally deal with broken bolts and screws. The thing you don't want to do is get in a hurry and make a mistake a lot worse than it already is.
    Because we are dealing with such a tight space, inside a pistol grip; unless you want to get really crazy with the whole thing and risk some equipment and at worse case really screw up a lower; take your time and use the right tools.
    Remove the upper from the lower
    I would inspect the screw and decide if it is possible to work it back out. Usually if you are working a flat tip screwdriver and have stripped the head it may be only stripped in one direction.

    Get some light on the subject, can the screw be worked out in the opposite direction?
    1) Yes? Secure the weapons lower in a padded vise and attempt to work the screw out slowly with maximum force being applied down and twisting to the left. Works best with chimp type strength and a few bad words.
    2) No?
    A) Carefully Center punch the screw in as close to the exact center of the screw head.
    You need a drill, preferably a drill press with a vise on the deck and lots of light.
    B) Chuck up a 1/4 inch long shank drill bit in your vise
    Check your drill bit and vise again everything tight?
    C) Carefully and without using power lower the bit inside the grip and check your position.
    Apply a drop of oil to the screw head and drills bit.
    You want the tip of the bit to hit the exact center of where your center punch marked the screw.
    D) Retract the bit 3/8ths of an inch away from the screw head and turn on your drill.
    Check that the tip of your drill will hit the exact center of the position you made with the punch.
    E) Lower the bit with light pressure, you're going to move the bit about 1/16th .
    At this point the screws head should zip off like a button and wrap in to the drill bit.
    F) Remove the lower from the vise. Pull the grip from the screw. and inspect.

    If the screws shank is center to the lower receiver you are good to go, proceed.
    If it is off center and wobbley cocked, you need a machinist and a wallet with credit cards,

    G) Unless you need a Machinist, lets proceed.
    You will need a set of 10 inch vise grips and a soldering iron or heat gun; preferably a soldering iron.
    H) if working with a heat gun apply the heat in accordance to this temp and spec.
    Red Locktite. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_RED_tds.pdf so 400 degrees.
    If working with a soldering iron apply the tip directly to the screw and give it about 10 minutes of
    heat .
    I) Adjust your Vise grips to the screws shank and tighten and turn slowly and carefully.
    Now we are unscrewing the broken shank, but lets first move right to tighten and then left .
    to loosen until the bolt is free. As soon as you have freedom of movement proceed quickly.
    Otherwise you may need to heat it again.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Averageman View Post
    I occasionally deal with broken bolts and screws. The thing you don't want to do is get in a hurry and make a mistake a lot worse than it already is.
    Because we are dealing with such a tight space, inside a pistol grip; unless you want to get really crazy with the whole thing and risk some equipment and at worse case really screw up a lower; take your time and use the right tools.
    Remove the upper from the lower
    I would inspect the screw and decide if it is possible to work it back out. Usually if you are working a flat tip screwdriver and have stripped the head it may be only stripped in one direction.

    Get some light on the subject, can the screw be worked out in the opposite direction?
    1) Yes? Secure the weapons lower in a padded vise and attempt to work the screw out slowly with maximum force being applied down and twisting to the left. Works best with chimp type strength and a few bad words.
    2) No?
    A) Carefully Center punch the screw in as close to the exact center of the screw head.
    You need a drill, preferably a drill press with a vise on the deck and lots of light.
    B) Chuck up a 1/4 inch long shank drill bit in your vise
    Check your drill bit and vise again everything tight?
    C) Carefully and without using power lower the bit inside the grip and check your position.
    Apply a drop of oil to the screw head and drills bit.
    You want the tip of the bit to hit the exact center of where your center punch marked the screw.
    D) Retract the bit 3/8ths of an inch away from the screw head and turn on your drill.
    Check that the tip of your drill will hit the exact center of the position you made with the punch.
    E) Lower the bit with light pressure, you're going to move the bit about 1/16th .
    At this point the screws head should zip off like a button and wrap in to the drill bit.
    F) Remove the lower from the vise. Pull the grip from the screw. and inspect.

    If the screws shank is center to the lower receiver you are good to go, proceed.
    If it is off center and wobbley cocked, you need a machinist and a wallet with credit cards,

    G) Unless you need a Machinist, lets proceed.
    You will need a set of 10 inch vise grips and a soldering iron or heat gun; preferably a soldering iron.
    H) if working with a heat gun apply the heat in accordance to this temp and spec.
    Red Locktite. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_RED_tds.pdf so 400 degrees.
    If working with a soldering iron apply the tip directly to the screw and give it about 10 minutes of
    heat .
    I) Adjust your Vise grips to the screws shank and tighten and turn slowly and carefully.
    Now we are unscrewing the broken shank, but lets first move right to tighten and then left .
    to loosen until the bolt is free. As soon as you have freedom of movement proceed quickly.
    Otherwise you may need to heat it again.
    Wowzers talk about making a simple task overly comlex. First... don't put screws in with thread locking compound in the first place. Second, if you already did, just cut the grip off and remove with a vice, or vice grips, or best yet, just take it to a gunsmith, have it removed for a couple bucks, then send the bill off to the company you got the part from to begin with.

    This isn't rocket science. If you can't get it out with a vice or vicegrips IMO it's best just to have a shop deal w it, that way any damage to the lower due to removal would be covered by the shop. No need to start taking drills, dremels, plasma cutters and flux capicators to the bolt to get it out.
    From TOS ... "buy the shit out of that thing, all the mil spec is just nonsense."

  9. #49
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    It's really not that difficult and the way I explained it is probobly exactly what your "Gunsmith" is going to do.
    This takes less than fifteen minutes to do and will probobly save your grip and about $50.00 as opposed to taking it to someone else to do. I know it looks complicated, but having the skills and tools I would much rather fix my own stuff rather than being dependant on someone else.

    No need to start taking drills, dremels, plasma cutters and flux capicators to the bolt to get it out.

    And what would be the fun in that?

  10. #50
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    I don't know why there's all the threadlocker hate in this thread, but I like the added security that it provides. I always use the star washer too, but a careful application of the proper threadlocker will not magically and permanently lock your grip screw into your receiver. Just use common sense and this shouldn't happen.

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