S&W 686 light strikes

[Mr. Smith]

Of course you think it should go to a shop, that will take much of my meager paycheck.
Just kidding. I've actually considered sending it to you for a trigger job. Just never got around to it. I've been looking at your work for years, and I think your revolver work is incredible. This revolver is simply a "fun" gun for me, and I haven't really invested much time or money into it.

If you need my help just let me know I would be glad to help you.

[PD Sgt.]

My two cents, I had a problem with occasional light strikes after installing an aftermarket spring kit with one of my J frames. It turned out the spring in the DA sear was kinked (likely from the factory as I never touched it) and the lighter springs would not always be able to overcome the extra resistance. It happened about once every cylinder.

Finally checked and replaced the spring, and have not had a problem or light strike since.

[weggy]

Try tightening the strain screw just a little.

[Dave Berryhill]

Stick with the regular Apex firing pin no the competition one:
https://apextactical.com/store/produ....php?pid4.html....

What is the difference?

[RussB]

What is the difference?

The regular has a round profile, while the competition is more conical

[Dave Berryhill]

The regular has a round profile, while the competition is more conical

Makes sense - thanks!

[Andyd]

The combined triggerpull weight of the rebound and main spring is not the only influence on ignition. Friction will make the triggerpull harder and the trigger characteristics unpleasant. A misaligned hammer might loose force by binding on the frame and could maybe need shimming. Burrs inside the rebound slide, rough spots on the rebound slide or poor mating to the frame can increase friction.

Just changing the springs will rarely lead to phantastic trigger characteristics, only a lighter pull.

J. Kuhnhausen has written an excellent guide on how to work on the S&W revolvers and reading it will help to understand the gun much better.