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Thread: Bushmaster Carbine - Change Parts?

  1. #1
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    Bushmaster Carbine - Change Parts?

    I've heard/read a ton from Colt AR15 fans regarding the other AR makers "low quality". Some folks suggest replacing the some of the "cheap" parts but I've not seen much in the way of specifics.


    1) So what parts if any need/should be replaced in a Bushmaster carbine?
    2) Why?

    I'm open to suggestions.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    I'm no expert but if I was buying a complete, off-the-shelf, Bushmaster I would do the following:

    1) Ensure the front sight isn't canted.
    2) Replace the Bolt Carrier Group (BCG) with a Colt or a M16 CMT MP'd unit.
    3) Ensure the gas key bolts are properly staked
    4) Add a Crane O-Ring or Defender
    5) Replace the buffer with an H buffer
    6) Replace the plastic trigger guard with a Magpul unit

    Some of the optional things I would look at would be:

    - Replace the buttstock with a Vltor or LMT Crane unit.

  3. #3
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    Or another option is to run it stock for about 12 years and run about 12K thru it until something breaks....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Harv
    Or another option is to run it stock for about 12 years and run about 12K thru it until something breaks....

    That's my original plan, I'd just like to see what the good folks here think should be replaced and why.

    I'm big on the why part.

  5. #5
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    Or another option is to run it stock for about 12 years and run about 12K thru it until something breaks....


    hahahaha
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  6. #6
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    Buy ammo, take classes and maybe buy some spare parts, like a fitted bolt. If you use a single-point sling, either stake or locktite the buffer tube castle nut. Check your stakes on the gas key. Other than that, shoot the poop out of it. If it doesn't work, send it back to Bushampster and make them fix it.

    Lube your rifle, well, with a good lube like Slip 2000.

    If I were to start over, I would either get a Colt's or complete LMT rifle. But, if I had a Bushmaster, I wouldn't worry if it worked well.

    What you have to remember is that you are paying about $2-300 dollars more for a Colt for the extra QC; if you get a Bushmaster, you're doing the in-field QC testing.

    Shoot it and find out what happens - we've got Bushmasters at work with 5K-8K rounds with (after the carriers and buttstocks are properly staked) nothing more than spring and gas ring changes.
    Affiliated with BattleComp Enterprises, LLC

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by M4arc
    I'm no expert but if I was buying a complete, off-the-shelf, Bushmaster I would do the following:

    1) Ensure the front sight isn't canted.
    2) Replace the Bolt Carrier Group (BCG) with a Colt or a M16 CMT MP'd unit.
    3) Ensure the gas key bolts are properly staked
    4) Add a Crane O-Ring or Defender
    5) Replace the buffer with an H buffer
    6) Replace the plastic trigger guard with a Magpul unit

    Some of the optional things I would look at would be:

    - Replace the buttstock with a Vltor or LMT Crane unit.
    May I ask why would you replace the above parts?

  8. #8
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    So you know your gun will run reliably is the short answer.

    Looking through the forum, there are several threads that address this issue from one angle or another of what brand is OK/Tier 1?; what parts do I need to change?; is Bushmaster good or bad? and on and on.

    We take our stances and the dealers come out and say their lower than Tier 1 guns or parts are "as good as Colt" or "run alongside Colt" etc. and some of the time all of us are right...and some of the time some of us are dead wrong.

    It looks like that we don't ask the right questions about what we want the gun for and why we are building it or modifying like we are. The first question that we should always ask about a gun, a part or other gear is: What is it for? Is my life hanging on this part or gun's performance? Is this a toy or a life saving tool? THAT, I submit, is where we're going wrong. If you're buying or putting together a rifle for shooting at the range, blasting coke cans, etc. then buy whatever cheap crap you want and that way you'll get to learn how to clear malfunctions, tinker, repair and replace all the time.

    On the other hand, if your life (or others lives) is/are going to be entrusted to the performance of the weapon, you'd better buy the best and take great care of it. Your rifle MUST work on demand every time under whatever conditions exist at that unexpected time that things go into the toilet! You are, or should be, a Tier 1 (Colt) customer of either completed rifles or genuine parts to replace the lower end crap in your economy rifle. Buying cheap to protect your life can become the ultimate expense....so don't do it. We reviewed in another thread this week an example of the fact that it's no less expensive to go ahead and buy the Colt instead of buying a BM or other and then replacing the substandard (for defending your life and others) parts with Colt/Tier 1 ones that are what they should be as far as KNOWN quality characteristics.

    Remember, for some of you, it's a "toy".....for others of us it's just our life on the table. Make your choices wisely.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harv
    Or another option is to run it stock for about 12 years and run about 12K thru it until something breaks....
    While mine's only 8yrs old, it is pushing the 30-35K mark and all I've ever changed is a buffer spring, and the only reason I changed that is because I had an extra one laying around. The only problems I've ever had were mag or ammo related, nothing rifle related.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Dobbs
    So you know your gun will run reliably is the short answer.

    Looking through the forum, there are several threads that address this issue from one angle or another of what brand is OK/Tier 1?; what parts do I need to change?; is Bushmaster good or bad? and on and on.

    We take our stances and the dealers come out and say their lower than Tier 1 guns or parts are "as good as Colt" or "run alongside Colt" etc. and some of the time all of us are right...and some of the time some of us are dead wrong.

    It looks like that we don't ask the right questions about what we want the gun for and why we are building it or modifying like we are. The first question that we should always ask about a gun, a part or other gear is: What is it for? Is my life hanging on this part or gun's performance? Is this a toy or a life saving tool? THAT, I submit, is where we're going wrong. If you're buying or putting together a rifle for shooting at the range, blasting coke cans, etc. then buy whatever cheap crap you want and that way you'll get to learn how to clear malfunctions, tinker, repair and replace all the time.

    On the other hand, if your life (or others lives) is/are going to be entrusted to the performance of the weapon, you'd better buy the best and take great care of it. Your rifle MUST work on demand every time under whatever conditions exist at that unexpected time that things go into the toilet! You are, or should be, a Tier 1 (Colt) customer of either completed rifles or genuine parts to replace the lower end crap in your economy rifle. Buying cheap to protect your life can become the ultimate expense....so don't do it. We reviewed in another thread this week an example of the fact that it's no less expensive to go ahead and buy the Colt instead of buying a BM or other and then replacing the substandard (for defending your life and others) parts with Colt/Tier 1 ones that are what they should be as far as KNOWN quality characteristics.

    Remember, for some of you, it's a "toy".....for others of us it's just our life on the table. Make your choices wisely.
    My carbine will see a lot more use on the range than it will for saving my life, at least I hope so. Then again the same goes for my Glock 29 and 20.
    Should I need it for life saving situations and I have time or have an idea trouble is coming a rifle or carbine will be my 1st choice.

    So I should replace all the BCG and the other parts mentioned above. But with what brand? There are tons of them out there.

    I will try to search the forum for the "whys" but I find it curious that there no specific failures were attached to replacing a certain part. I've begun to form the opinion that most people "heard of it from someone who heard of it....." being a problem.

    I've had my BM for a bit less than a year now, I've put a bit over 500 rds through it. I don't think I need to work on it that much because of the years I spend in the Marine Corps infantry has give me a level of intimacy with the M16 platforms. I will continue to work with it as needed and will let the good folks here know if I have any trouble with it that are not mag related. Those mags are evil with any AR/M16.

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