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At HD distances it won't matter in practical terms. On the off chance it may matter in court, I would (and do) zero to the HD ammo.
You could always zero to the TAP, then shoot the xm193 at 100 and note the shift. Then if the S truly does HTF (and your out of TAP), just dial a few clicks as per your notes.
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Since you're looking for first hand info, I can tell you that my 75 grain TAP T2 5.56 (NATO brass, not .223) and XM855 all get cold bore and hot bore strikes on 8" steel plates at 190 and 280M and center head hits on IDPA targets at 50 and 96M out of either of my Colt M4's.
EOTECH 556 and magnifier on my 6920 and ACOG TA11 on my 6920SOCOM, using about the same equivalent holds. (Both rounds, perhaps unsurprisingly, disagree with the scaling on the ACOG BDC by 50m or so at long distances- I need to shoot with a 450 equivalent reticle hold at 500)
Verified yesterday at the range with 200 rounds of the Federal cartridge and 30 rounds of the TAP in both rifles. As a final test I shot a magazine loaded with each round alternating between the M855 and TAP 75 with two hits on each target from closest to longest, 96 to 190 to 280 to 455, and back.
I begin to see a difference at 455M on my range's 18" tubular gong, but all are still effective to that distance (by effective, I mean a majority of hits in the -0 or -1 zones on an IDPA silhouette). At 550M (10" steel plate on a swinger) I can no longer use the same hold for both rounds (but I'm sketchy at that distance in any event- generally three for five at best). And at 800 yards, on a 10" plate, forget about it.
Both rounds are definitely "minute of bad guy" at any reasonable distance.
As you have been advised, for sure, try it for yourself.
Last edited by Archer1440; 10-22-13 at 00:47. Reason: Corrected yards to meters, corrected 800 yard target plate size
All roads lead to $1500. - Me, with regards to AR system builds, whether homebrew or off-the-shelf.
I prefer to zero my csrbines with whatever defensive ammo I'm using, or at least confirm zero with that ammo. You also should make sure that the ammo functions 100% in your gun. Nevertheless, at HD distances, I would be surprised that there are any significant variances. At those closer distances, remember the mechanical off-set of your sights.
This is good info, is your 75gr. TAP 5.56 or .223? If I'm hitting within a 1/2 inch out to 100 yards than I'll be ecstatic.
I couldn’t agree more, I’ll be running a couple hundred rounds of the TAP through each rifle and probably purchase several hundred rounds more assuming it cycles reliably. As long as the zero is close (within an inch of what the XM193 shoots) I think I’ll be happy.
Thank you, after lurking and asking a few questions I thought these 2 would be ideal for my purposes as well. For longer ranges and more punch I have a SCAR 17s I’d like to put the VCOG on when it comes out, although with that I’ll be running Hornady 168gr. AMAX. I also have a VEPR 12 that I’ve made some modifications on to round out my long gun collection, all purchased within the past several months. After Sandy Hook I didn’t want to get caught with my pants down.
Take this for what it's worth, and report back after you have some hard facts.
My DD V7 with H-1 is zeroed at 50 yards on 55 gr. With 70 gr. TSX loads, I was high by 3-4" @ 100 yards. I'd guess you're going to be high, but not significantly.
I live in a relatively small home, with no need for anything to be zeroed past 20'. I dropped a laser bore site in, and dropped the H-1 75 clicks to get the dots to line up (from my 50 yard zero). My next time at the range, they only had a 25 yard station open. I had forgotten to click the H-1 back up and kept hitting about 2" high but couldn't figure out why until after about 10 rounds.
End point being, minute of torso should be fine regardless. Just do some testing though![]()
Yeah, but I wouldn't mess with a perfectly good 100m zero and then rely on a unconfirmed zero for an hd gun.
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At home defense ranges I doubt it will make a lot of difference.
In general that is a pretty huge difference in bullet to expect your zero to be close. Different brand, different powder, likely different primer and brass. Certainly a very different bullet both in length and weight.
I typically expect decent results when using the same grain bullet. However, when I make such a drastic change in bullet weight I always zero the rifle for the new round.
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