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Thread: Cerakote variance?

  1. #1
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    Cerakote variance?

    I'm seeing that a lot of companies are offering factory Cerkote options these days.

    My question is what will the color variance be between parts ordered from different companies with the same Cerakote color code... (i.e. H-267Q Magpul FDE)

    For example, I pair this lower:

    http://aeroprecisionusa.com/shop/ar1...-with-cerakote

    With this upper:
    http://www.weaponoutfitters.com/ar-1...ramps-fde.html

    And assuming that they are using: H-267Q Magpul FDE

    Thanks for any insight you can pass along.

  2. #2
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    Color should be very close....Sheen is more likely to be off, which can change the way we see the color. If they use factory mixing ratio, both will be good enough for gov't work.
    "I would rather be the hammer than the anvil."- Rommel

    Owner: Hangar 18 Custom Coatings

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    Roger that... Here is how someone also explained it to me in an email...

    So Cerakote is a combination of actual colored ceramic and a hardner.
    The colors should be pretty consistent. What will most likely vary is
    the glossiness. The cerakote:hardner ratio is what determines how
    glossy or matte the finish turns out.

    Cerekote recommends the following ratios:

    Matte Finish 24:1
    Satin Finish 18:1
    Semi Gloss 16:1

    Most people simply use 18:1. Personally I like something closer to the
    matte finish like maybe 19:1 or 20:1.

    My point is: Just know the ratio of cerakote to hardner and you should
    be able to get any coater to reproduce a look as long as everyone
    accurately measures thier mixtures.

    So if cerakoter A tells you he used a 18:1 ratio for your lower, you
    should tell cerakoter B to use the same ratio for your upper and have
    pretty similar results.

    I think that is the only way to get close to reproducing a finish.
    Everything else lies in the coater's technique and how they media blast
    or spray things can't be prescribed.

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    Sounds accurate to me. I've been using NIC coatings for 8 years, and they have had a few colors that were problematic, but overall they are more consistent in color than some of my other suppliers.
    "I would rather be the hammer than the anvil."- Rommel

    Owner: Hangar 18 Custom Coatings

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    Interesting. Nice info to keep in mind. I have no plans of coating anything yet, im really more of a rattlecan guy, but ive been thinking about the possibility of using either cerakote or norrells to restore old lowers.
    How thick does cerakote lay on? Also, have ever successfully coated on top of anodizing? It seems to me cerakote is more adamant about blasting than norrells.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Col_Crocs View Post
    Interesting. Nice info to keep in mind. I have no plans of coating anything yet, im really more of a rattlecan guy, but ive been thinking about the possibility of using either cerakote or norrells to restore old lowers.
    How thick does cerakote lay on? Also, have ever successfully coated on top of anodizing? It seems to me cerakote is more adamant about blasting than norrells.
    All paint companies would love to have their product applied over a blasted surface....it's a win-win for them. I degrease hard anodizing and do a very low pressure etch/spray/bake. Type III hard anodizing is some good stuff.
    "I would rather be the hammer than the anvil."- Rommel

    Owner: Hangar 18 Custom Coatings

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    Anodizing is actually a good substrate to paint onto. The problem is in the Mil spec stuff it has to be "Teflon sealed" and that is the problem with coating over it. Nothing sticks to Teflon! You have to at least mildly blast the surface to remove the Teflon from the pores.

    I have been painting all kinds of stuff for years. There are 2 coatings I have used and personally think highly of and recommend:

    POR-15
    KG Gunkote

    I have both Cerakoted and Gunkoted guns and appearance and durability is head to head. The difference is KG Gunkote does not require a hardner or any kind of mixing. Also, something to seriously consider is that once Cerakote is sprayed on, the only way to remove it is to sand blast. With KG Gunkote, as long as it hasnt been baked in the oven, you can easily remove it with just about any solvent (Brake Cleaner, Carb Cleaner, Acetone, etc.). So if you are in the middle of spraying and you drop the part, cause a run, drip or sag, or you mess up the coating putting the part in the oven, its an easy fix. Cerakote = sandblast, even if you havnt baked it on yet!

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    Thanks! So what type of media and i guess strength/pressure would you recommend for best results? I dont know anything about this stuff so forgive the ignorance and perhaps the wrong phrasing of the question...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mall_Ninja View Post
    Anodizing is actually a good substrate to paint onto. The problem is in the Mil spec stuff it has to be "Teflon sealed" and that is the problem with coating over it. Nothing sticks to Teflon! You have to at least mildly blast the surface to remove the Teflon from the pores.

    I have been painting all kinds of stuff for years. There are 2 coatings I have used and personally think highly of and recommend:

    POR-15
    KG Gunkote

    I have both Cerakoted and Gunkoted guns and appearance and durability is head to head. The difference is KG Gunkote does not require a hardner or any kind of mixing. Also, something to seriously consider is that once Cerakote is sprayed on, the only way to remove it is to sand blast. With KG Gunkote, as long as it hasnt been baked in the oven, you can easily remove it with just about any solvent (Brake Cleaner, Carb Cleaner, Acetone, etc.). So if you are in the middle of spraying and you drop the part, cause a run, drip or sag, or you mess up the coating putting the part in the oven, its an easy fix. Cerakote = sandblast, even if you havnt baked it on yet!
    So how is it I can clean it up with acetone?

    I also cannot find any reference to teflon in the mil-spec for type III.

    http://www.wbdg.org/ccb/FEDMIL/a8625.pdf

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    Quote Originally Posted by Col_Crocs View Post
    Thanks! So what type of media and i guess strength/pressure would you recommend for best results? I dont know anything about this stuff so forgive the ignorance and perhaps the wrong phrasing of the question...
    Aluminum Oxide for the media. KG calls for 120 mesh if I recall correctly. Pretty low pressures (I think around 40 PSI if I remember right, sorry its late), its all on their website. You basically are just roughing the surface a bit to remove the Teflon. Fresh Parkerizing is also a great substrate once degreased. Makes coating barrels and FSB's a snap. No more oil coating to keep from rusting!

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