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Thread: Cerakote variance?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mall_Ninja View Post
    No problem...



    Yep, anything Parkerized I paint. I hate oiling stuff to keep it from rusting. The bake on coatings do the same thing (actually better) for corrosion protection without the oily mess and need to constantly re-apply (oil).

    Thats another reason I choose KG over Cerakote. If you wear off or damage the coating, you can simply degrease and re-paint the area with KG. Cerakote will not stick to itself once cured, KG is quite the opposite. It sticks to itself perfectly!
    Awesome! Ever give norrells a try? I need to do some reading on KG but from what little i know, i'd pick norrells over cerakote.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by bp7178 View Post
    Have you tried to spray over Cerakote or are you going off of their training materials?
    I have some materials here I have experimented with but not on a large scale. After speaking in depth with Cerakote I didnt feel any need to try something they guaranteed would not work well.

    Im guessing you have had different experiences?

    I see no reason why Cerakote would bring to light something negative about their own product if it wasnt true?

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Col_Crocs View Post
    Awesome! Ever give norrells a try? I need to do some reading on KG but from what little i know, i'd pick norrells over cerakote.
    No sorry I haven't. I did a lot of research on all the options including Duracoat when I decided first on KG. At the time I was between KG and Cerakote but a friend of mine actually had some KG so I tried it first. Not long after, I ran across some Cerakote and Duracote and decided that my first choice was the best one. The only draw back with KG at the time was they didnt have anything that you could use on things that cant be baked. I was going to use Duracote for those items but they have since came out with an "air cure" product. I have not yet tried it out but have used their "Sitecoat" florescent sight paint and that stuff is GTG.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mall_Ninja View Post
    I have some materials here I have experimented with but not on a large scale. After speaking in depth with Cerakote I didnt feel any need to try something they guaranteed would not work well.

    Im guessing you have had different experiences?

    I see no reason why Cerakote would bring to light something negative about their own product if it wasnt true?
    I think its less than optimal, but it has worked for me. Granted, all I did was re-spray a barrel that got a tool dropped against it and left a scratch. Anyway its not a really high wear item. Something like a handgun slide or frame I would slight bake and re-blast even if it was KG.

    I'm sure if you ran all the surface tests against a re-spray it wouldn't hold up as well. I would guess NIC isn't going to tell anyone to do something that would result in less than a 100% job. There isn't any evidence to suggest my re-spray isn't sticking or otherwise cosmetically looks different than the rest of the barrel (I only re-sprayed the section forward the gas block).

  5. #25
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    Here's a Colt upper and lower I just had done in dark bronze by a company in Oregon. It turned out very good and closely matches the DD FDE color.

    Attachment 18613



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  6. #26
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    If you don't mind aero precision uppers and lowers they sell them in ceracoat FDE, OD, and Grey I believe.

    I think they are only $10 more than the black.

    Atleast they will match. I can understand if you prefer a different lower and still want the FDE look.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by bp7178 View Post
    Something like a handgun slide or frame I would slight bake and re-blast even if it was KG.
    Completely unnecessary with KG. You dip it in solvent or spray it with brake clean and it comes right off. No need to "slight bake" and blast it. Also, my personal preference is to blast as little as possible, I never take a part to the "white". Blasting does change dimension as well. I would not trust a high stress item that has been blasted multiple times!

    Also, I "bake and paint over" almost every gun I KG. Its just easier sometimes to spray certain areas and bake the coating on before painting the rest of the part. KG sticks perfectly well to itself, trust me! No sanding or prep required (beyond just cleaning the surface).

    Quote Originally Posted by bp7178 View Post
    I'm sure if you ran all the surface tests against a re-spray it wouldn't hold up as well.
    KG tells you right in their "FAQ" that its perfectly fine and adheres to itself perfectly. As I already stated I touch up or multi bake parts on just about every gun. I have painted hundreds of parts and have never found a difference in adhesion between once coated/baked vs. multi step baking. Sometimes I even bake and spray 3 times before a part is "finished", depending on the complexity of the part or difficulty in hanging it to be baked...

    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    Here's a Colt upper and lower I just had done in dark bronze by a company in Oregon. It turned out very good and closely matches the DD FDE color.

    Attachment 18613
    Looks black to me? That is an after pic not a before?
    Last edited by Mall_Ninja; 10-29-13 at 03:31.

  8. #28
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    After pic. If you have seen a DD RIS II FDE rail that is almost identical. You have to catch it in the correct lighting.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mall_Ninja View Post
    Completely unnecessary with KG. You dip it in solvent or spray it with brake clean and it comes right off. No need to "slight bake" and blast it. Also, my personal preference is to blast as little as possible, I never take a part to the "white". Blasting does change dimension as well. I would not trust a high stress item that has been blasted multiple times!

    Also, I "bake and paint over" almost every gun I KG. Its just easier sometimes to spray certain areas and bake the coating on before painting the rest of the part. KG sticks perfectly well to itself, trust me! No sanding or prep required (beyond just cleaning the surface).



    KG tells you right in their "FAQ" that its perfectly fine and adheres to itself perfectly. As I already stated I touch up or multi bake parts on just about every gun. I have painted hundreds of parts and have never found a difference in adhesion between once coated/baked vs. multi step baking. Sometimes I even bake and spray 3 times before a part is "finished", depending on the complexity of the part or difficulty in hanging it to be baked...



    Looks black to me? That is an after pic not a before?



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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    After pic. If you have seen a DD RIS II FDE rail that is almost identical. You have to catch it in the correct lighting.
    Correct on the DD...I use a burnt bronze mix to match that rail also.

    Mall Ninja, explain why you fear a multiple blasted part? I'm guessing your talking structural integrity or something similar. I'm not tracking with you on a lot of stuff, but I'm just a hill-billy, so I need to learn when I can.
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  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Campbell View Post
    Mall Ninja, explain why you fear a multiple blasted part? I'm guessing your talking structural integrity or something similar. I'm not tracking with you on a lot of stuff, but I'm just a hill-billy, so I need to learn when I can.
    Sand blasting removes material, you sand blast a part too many times and you can remove a significant amount. That can change the dimension of the part beyond safe/serviceable amounts (highly dependent of coarse on application).

    On hardcoat aluminum I personally try to remove as little as possible (again, just to remove the anodize sealer). I would not recommend taking any anodized aluminum part to the white. Aluminum in the white is so soft you can damage/remove too much material very quickly...

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