.556 vs .223 casings?

**DuGaul** · 05-06-08, 12:09

Is there any difference between the brass casings for .556 and .223 ammo?

Which manufacturers supply .556 brass?

Is it possible to buy military grade brass on the commercial market for reloading purposes? Who sells it?

Thanks

**jmart** · 05-06-08, 15:29

5.56 brass runs lighter than commercial brass. LC cases run 91-93 grains, and every other case I've weighed weighs more. Some PMP stuff is 110 grains or more.

I'm not certain, but what I think distinguishes LC cases from others is the way it's heat treated and annealed. LC pockets don't expand as much on firing as other cases, commercial Federal being the worst in my experience comparing primarily Rem, Win, LC and Federal. I beieve LC cases are harder around the base thyan other cases, but necks and shoulders are nicely annealed. LC also crimps their primer pockets, so when relaoding tehse you have to either ream the crimp away or swage it.

I'm not aware of anywhere you can buy virgin LC brass, but some places have carried once-fired LC brass. Not sure if they still have supplies or if their sources have dried up. Many folks just buy some LC XM-193 and save the brass, and/or scrounge brass at public ranges. Be careful though what you scrounge, I limit my scrounging to folks who are shooting factory. If I can see them load directly from newly cased ammo, I know it' only once fired. Just politely ask them if they mind you recovering their brass. If they don't reload, virtually anyone is accomodating in this regard, just be courteous about it and wait until they are downrange or leave for the day. Another source could be from a PD, if they don't already have a plan to supply a reloader or sell it for scrap.

**DuGaul** · 05-06-08, 15:55

Thank you for this info!

LC stands for what?

So, if military brass is lighter than commercial brass, you would think that new commercial brass would be safer for "hot loads" than reloaded military brass? Or am I missing something?

**Shihan** · 05-06-08, 15:57

Originally Posted by DuGaul

Thank you for this info!

LC stands for what?

So, if military brass is lighter than commercial brass, you would think that new commercial brass would be safer for "hot loads" than reloaded military brass? Or am I missing something?

LC= Lake City the prime mil contractor for 5.56 and 7.62.

**jmart** · 05-06-08, 16:39

Originally Posted by DuGaul

So, if military brass is lighter than commercial brass, you would think that new commercial brass would be safer for "hot loads" than reloaded military brass? Or am I missing something?

That's where the heat treating and annealing come in. Heavier brass that is soft won't take as much pressure.

Heavier brass limits powder capacity which limits velocity.

LC is hard where it needs to be hard, soft where it needs to be soft, and has good powder capacity.

**HolyRoller** · 05-06-08, 16:45

Hey DuGaul, great to see you here. If I may be a smarty-pants for a minute, isn't ".556" pretty small? That's just over half a millimeter. How about 5.56? That's about .223 caliber. I'm just messing with you, we all misplace a decimal point now and then.

I pick up any and all brass I can find at my firing point at highpower rifle matches. Civilian brass will nearly always be headstamped (that's the writing on the flat part of the case that surrounds the primer) with the caliber and maker. Military brass will not be headstamped with the caliber; they figure you can just tell. The only problem I've encountered with military 5.56/.223 brass is sometimes the primer pocket is just a little too small and I can't seat the new primer, so I discard the case, figuring it was worth what I paid for it.

Your reloading dies should squeeze the brass back to acceptable dimensions whether it's military or civilian in origin. I use a small-base X-Die from RCBS for sizing .223. Small-base means it sizes the case to minimum dimensions, and X-Die is something RCBS invented to keep the brass from getting longer with each resizing and having to be trimmed back. Trimming brass is the worst PITA in reloading until you get rich enough to buy a power trimmer. If you decide trimming brass is too much of a bother and take chances with overlength brass, you may spend a lot of time getting stuck cartridges out of your chamber ... don't ask me how I know :-\

**DuGaul** · 05-07-08, 08:03

HollyRoller - I'm outfitting a battalion of ants.

I'm surprised they can anneal only one end of the casing, considering that brass is very thermally conductive. I'll have to try that at home with some tongs and a blowtorch.

**markm** · 05-07-08, 08:38

Originally Posted by DuGaul

I'll have to try that at home with some tongs and a blowtorch.

Actually I've heard the home annealing method is to set the case rim down in like a half inch of water. Then heat the neck, and knock the case over in the water.

I have seen no need to do this as brass will generally separate before the necks crack if you load hot.

**DuGaul** · 05-07-08, 08:50

Well, I was kidding about tongs and blowtorch. It looks to me like it would be darn near impossible to anneal only one end of a brass casing without a special machine to control the process very tightly.