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Thread: Another stuck barrel nut thread - tried everything I can think of - help needed.

  1. #21
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    Myself and MarkG were just discussing this last night strangely enough and here we are. I have recently sheared two indexing pins on barrels when using the Reaction Rod and honestly it could have happened with a clam-shell as well IMO.

    The best option here (unless you have a pinned muzzle device or some other prohibitive nonsense) is to simply cut off the barrel nut and then replace it. If you shear the indexing pin that barrel will more or less be toast unless you find someone that knows what they are doing and they are good at it.

    When the nut "seizes" to the upper, the upper and nut become one. If you apply force to it the upper will flex. I have even seen clam-shells get warped from this happening over and over. This is why I always tell people to use anti-seize and if they insist on using a torque wrench set it to the lowest setting (30 ft./lbs) and then align it from that point.

    If Rocksett was used you will need to use hot water to loosen it. I have done it with muzzle devices and it worked. Heat won't because the Rocksett is designed to be heat resistant. I also put my stuff in the vise in such a way that I am applying downward force to the nut rather then pulling up.



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  2. #22
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    So much contradictory info!

    Down vs up force, rocksett isn't effected by water vs it is, ahh

    My head is full of Turkey
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  3. #23
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    And just to confuse things further, I'll point out that you cannot pull a wrench (or anything else for that matter) you must push

    When pushing down on the wrench, you can only apply as downforce on the wrench as you have bodyweight, For example, I weigh 210 lbs. Once I apply 210 lbs downforce on the wrench, I simply start lifting my body off the ground. To apply any more than that, I have to find a way to brace against something. Often, the simplest way to brace yourself is to orient the work so you can push up, bracing yourself against the floor. It's even better if you do so in a way that let's you push with your leg muscles. Of course, you need the bench to be bolted to the floor, but I've tipped benches pushing down as well. If you think AR barrel nuts can be stubborn, try breaking loose a FAL barrel that's been torqued to a receiver stub since the fifties!
    INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
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    4. BOOM!
    5. HA-HA!!

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  4. #24
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    Sometimes cutting nut is the best way to avoid collateral damage. Just be careful and cut a little at a time. Sometimes making multiple cuts helps, like 3 cuts equal distances apart.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    If Rocksett was used you will need to use hot water to loosen it. I have done it with muzzle devices and it worked. Heat won't because the Rocksett is designed to be heat resistant. I also put my stuff in the vise in such a way that I am applying downward force to the nut rather then pulling up.
    Yup. Just helped a guy out who was nearly breaking his wrenches trying to take off a Rocksetted muzzle device with the aid of a torch. Told him to stick it in some near-boiling water for several minutes. He was then able to take it right off.
    Dave Merrill
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  6. #26
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    On MDs with RS, I've had some luck smacking them good with a heavy leather padded hammer on a padded block. Doesn't work every time, but it's quick.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tzed250 View Post
    Distilled water is safe. No salts, so no difference in potential and no corrosion.
    One form of corrosion in ferrous materials is oxidation..........caused by Oxygen. You still get corrosion with distilled water (it has oxygen suspended in the water,) just not as rapid as salts are not there to enhance electron exchange or react independently in galvanic corrosion.

    Additionally, Carbon Dioxide causes corrosion in steel and distilled water also has CO2 suspended in it.

    http://www.metu.edu.tr/~kok/pete424/...4_CHAPTER9.pdf
    Last edited by Chorizo; 11-29-13 at 19:54.
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  8. #28
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    Just boil the water hard to deaerate the air from distilled water for a few minutes. I do this all the time on de-ionized water systems. That's what a DA does.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chorizo View Post
    One form of corrosion in ferrous materials is oxidation..........caused by Oxygen. You still get corrosion with distilled water (it has oxygen suspended in the water,) just not as rapid as salts are not there to enhance electron exchange or react independently in galvanic corrosion.

    Additionally, Carbon Dioxide causes corrosion in steel and distilled water also has CO2 suspended in it.

    http://www.metu.edu.tr/~kok/pete424/...4_CHAPTER9.pdf
    I think what you just said was that O2 and CO2 cause corrosion, not the distilled water.
    John

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  10. #30
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    Ok... So I applied heat to open up the pores and expand the metal a bit, liberally doused it in Aerokroil, wrapped it in saran wrap after cooling, let it sit for about 12 hours at room temp, and stuck it in the freezer overnight. This morning, I chucked it up again and hit it with the heatgun until I was afraid of melting my receiver. Tried two barrel wrenches (the one with many teeth and the Brownell's 6 pointer), an insane amount of force and tons of cursing. After reading through the thread I've decided to just send it back in to the builder. I feel defeated. I would just cut the nut off but I'll be damned if I'm going to risk ruining a receiver because my barrel nut wasn't installed properly by the builder. Looks like I'll just send it out Monday morning and if they rip the receiver in half, it's their problem. Thanks for the advice everyone. I learned a lot. Like - don't use a reaction rod to remove a barrel nut! I will update when and if I get my upper/barrel/nut back.

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