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Thread: Let's talk about precision reloading

  1. #111
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    As someone suggested earlier, I ordered a Forster BR seating die and it seems really helps seating the bullet straight since it holds the brass and bullet on the same plane. I was using a RCBS seating die w/ 77gr SMK and was getting crooked bullets, which is fine for cheaper plinking ammo, but really hurts for precision.

  2. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onyx Z View Post
    As someone suggested earlier, I ordered a Forster BR seating die and it seems really helps seating the bullet straight since it holds the brass and bullet on the same plane. I was using a RCBS seating die w/ 77gr SMK and was getting crooked bullets, which is fine for cheaper plinking ammo, but really hurts for precision.
    I am not a fan of the RCBS dies - especially their "competition" dies - I junked those years ago - I think you made a wise choice and a significant upgrade in the Forster.
    opsoff

    "I'd rather go down the river with seven studs than with a hundred shitheads"- Colonel Charlie Beckwith

  3. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by opsoff1 View Post
    I am not a fan of the RCBS dies - especially their "competition" dies - I junked those years ago - I think you made a wise choice and a significant upgrade in the Forster.
    Can you give me some details? I was thinking about ordering the RCBS competition seater to replace my Lee. Might have to go with the Forster.

  4. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onyx Z View Post
    As someone suggested earlier, I ordered a Forster BR seating die and it seems really helps seating the bullet straight since it holds the brass and bullet on the same plane. I was using a RCBS seating die w/ 77gr SMK and was getting crooked bullets, which is fine for cheaper plinking ammo, but really hurts for precision.
    The Forster or Redding seating die is next on my list.
    I'm using a RCBS now.

  5. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by opsoff1 View Post
    I am not a fan of the RCBS dies - especially their "competition" dies - I junked those years ago - I think you made a wise choice and a significant upgrade in the Forster.
    I never saw a problem with them until I started loading the for precision. In fact, I'm still using standard RCBS small base dies (all that was available back then) for my 300BLK and they seat the bullet very straight compared to the 77gr 223 for my precision AR.
    Last edited by Onyx Z; 12-25-13 at 00:24.

  6. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by eperk View Post
    Can you give me some details? I was thinking about ordering the RCBS competition seater to replace my Lee. Might have to go with the Forster.
    The RCBS "Competition" die has an open window that reduces the complete support for the case and the seating stem, additionally, the stems are wobbly and the interior machining sucked on the ones I used - I tried to polish it out, never got it squared away. When I switched to the Redding dies - night and day difference. Redding's are fully supported - the sleeve for the bullet is machined exceptionally well and keeps the bullet in superb alignment when entering the neck.
    My advice - go with the Redding micrometer BR seater or the Forster - you'll never look back.
    opsoff

    "I'd rather go down the river with seven studs than with a hundred shitheads"- Colonel Charlie Beckwith

  7. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by eperk View Post
    Can you give me some details? I was thinking about ordering the RCBS competition seater to replace my Lee. Might have to go with the Forster.
    Both the Forster and Redding dies line up the case with a spring loaded centering stem before the brass enters the die. After using the Forster seating die I just got, I doubt I will use anything else for precision reloading.

    Check this link for a Forster & Redding side by side comparison and explanation of the seating stem:
    http://www.sniperforums.com/forum/ca...s-forster.html

  8. #118
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    From what I've seen, the best place to start with any attempt to reload for accuracy is to find the components your gun likes in the amount it likes and then be exacting in your case prep, powder measuring and bullet seating.

    If you do that, you'll be way ahead of any factory produced match grade ammo.

    In order to find what your gun likes, you're going to have to get a chronograph, spend quite a bit on components for testing and spend a lot of time at the range being very meticulous in your record keeping. You should only be changing one thing at a time, so be ready to shoot a LOT of bullets and recording exactly what you changed.

    For example, My brother-in-law has a .308 that I'm working up a load for. I have both 150 gr and 165 gr bullets and have loaded ten of each with the same primers, to the same OAL and the same powder, but with several different powder loads appropriate for each bullet weight working up in 0.5gr increments.

    Now I get to go to the range and shoot them and record the results. I will be noting the temperature, wind, muzzle velocity, and accuracy of each at 100 yards. I will then put that data into a spreadsheet and compute maximum velocity spread, standard deviation and energy. I will also have the powder, primer, who made the case and the bullet and the bullet weight.

    Once I have that, I can start tinkering with the other variables such as primers and powders.

    After a while I will have found the most accurate load for each of those two bullets in that rifle. Then I can use the data I already have to change to a different bullet maker and make educated guesses about what to try for that bullet.

    After what is likely to be several hundred test shots and hours of reloading and note taking over what is likely to be several months, I should have a load that will consistently shoot very accurately.

    Then I can decide if I want to bother with fine tuning it with all the other things out there such as neck turning.

    Reloading for superior accuracy in your rifle is not a quick task and cannot be rushed and you will never actually be done with it since there will always be some new bullet or powder to try or some new gadget that is supposed to make your ammo more accurate.

    So have fun!
    Last edited by gsh341; 11-15-15 at 09:51.

  9. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by gsh341 View Post
    From what I've seen, the best place to start with any attempt to reload for accuracy is to find the components your gun likes in the amount it likes and then be exacting in your case prep, powder measuring and bullet seating.

    If you do that, you'll be way ahead of any factory produced match grade ammo.

    In order to find what your gun likes, you're going to have to get a chronometer, spend quite a bit on components for testing and spend a lot of time at the range being very meticulous in your record keeping. You should only be changing one thing at a time, so be ready to shoot a LOT of bullets and recording exactly what you changed.

    For example, My brother-in-law has a .308 that I'm working up a load for. I have both 150 gr and 165 gr bullets and have loaded ten of each with the same primers, to the same OAL and the same powder, but with several different powder loads appropriate for each bullet weight working up in .5gr increments.

    Now I get to go to the range and shoot them and record the results. I will be noting the temperature, wind, muzzle velocity, and accuracy of each at 100 yards. I will then pet that data into a spreadsheet and compute maximum velocity spread, standard deviation and energy. I will also have the powder, primer, who made the case and the bullet and the bullet weight.

    Once I have that, I can start tinkering with the other variables such as primers and powders.

    After a while I will have found the most accurate load for each of those two bullets in that rifle. Then I can use the data I already have to change to a different bullet maker and make educated guesses about what to try for that bullet.

    After what is likely to be several hundred test shots and hours of reloading and note taking over what is likely to be several months, I should have a load that will consistently shoot very accurately.

    Then I can decide if I want to bother with fine tuning it with all the other things out there such as neck turning.

    Reloading for superior accuracy in your rifle is not a quick task and cannot be rushed and you will never actually be done with it since there will always be some new bullet or powder to try or some new gadget that is supposed to make your ammo more accurate.

    So have fun!
    I will say this with a respectful tone. Please don't post things like this until you have read through the reams of information that is provided by very very knowledgeable and experienced reloaders - there are so many things wrong with this post that I don't even know where to start.
    Seriously - do the community a favor and delete this post. Every single statement you made is wrong or dangerous.

    v/r
    opsoff

    "I'd rather go down the river with seven studs than with a hundred shitheads"- Colonel Charlie Beckwith

  10. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by opsoff1 View Post
    I will say this with a respectful tone. Please don't post things like this until you have read through the reams of information that is provided by very very knowledgeable and experienced reloaders - there are so many things wrong with this post that I don't even know where to start.
    Seriously - do the community a favor and delete this post. Every single statement you made is wrong or dangerous.

    v/r
    I am a reloader and nothing I have posted is incorrect or dangerous.

    In fact, it is the process recommended to me by reloaders with decades of experience and has resulted in ammunition for my 30-06 that produced a 0.6" group at 200 yards.

    In order for me to have given "dangerous" information I would have to have given recommendations on a specific load that exceeds known pressure specifications.

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