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Thread: Trigger Sticking after "first stage" (With Video)

  1. #1
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    Trigger Sticking after "first stage" (With Video)

    Please click link below for video of issue, its about 12 seconds (sorry i do not know how to embed)

    View My Video



    So I recently acquired a Spikes tactical rifle. Owner told me the whole rifle is spikes, EXCEPT lower parts kit was CMMG. Anyway it shot ok but noticed the trigger pins were walking out. Upon further inspection th hammer spring was upside down. Fixed it and re-installed both hammer and trigger pin so the the double grooves are on both sides. This was my first time doing anything on an AR lower. I did notice it made the trigger quite a bit heavier after doing this.

    Anyways I perform a function check, all is well, HOWEVER, 1/5 times if i stage the trigger to the "wall" before break it will fail to reset back to normal position.

    It has a badass selector that i re installed. i notice while its "stuck" if i manipulate the safety it can sometimes return to normal position, however with safety removed completely the trigger still sticks 30% of the time, especially after a "full trigger pull" and completed reset.

    This is bugging the hell out of me and am wondering if i screwed up, or is it shit trigger components... Any help would be much appreciated I'm considering just swapping out entire trigger group since I cannot verify all was initially installed well.
    Last edited by azeriosu85; 01-06-14 at 20:38.

  2. #2
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    Also i should confirm that i Quadruple checked a picture from m4c.com of how the trigger springs are supposed to go. I believe everything is installed correctly.

  3. #3
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    Seen this a few times... although it could be improperly installed parts, or out of spec parts, most of the time it is just poorly finished parts. Put a little grease on the "inside" surface of the disconnector hook on the hammer and thumb cock and dry fire it about 50 times (don't forget to catch the hammer and not let it hit the lower receiver)

    Odds are, it is just a rough finish on the disconnector hook that is not allowing it to slide back and let the hammer reset.



    If this works, it is your call... you can live with you quick burnishing job or replace the parts if you want, or whatever...
    Please let me know if I have offended you...
    I would like to move on to my next task.


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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by K.L. Davis View Post
    Seen this a few times... although it could be improperly installed parts, or out of spec parts, most of the time it is just poorly finished parts. Put a little grease on the "inside" surface of the disconnector hook on the hammer and thumb cock and dry fire it about 50 times (don't forget to catch the hammer and not let it hit the lower receiver)

    Odds are, it is just a rough finish on the disconnector hook that is not allowing it to slide back and let the hammer reset.

    If this works, it is your call... you can live with you quick burnishing job or replace the parts if you want, or whatever...
    appreciate the response, as far as the area to grease, i did, and subsequent 100 dry fires....still doing it occasionally. Upon inspection it appears that the disconnector hook on the hammer...does not engage hardly at all. I'm talking just a SLIVER, maybe i do not know the whole process on these trigger groups but it appears it should have more positive contact.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by azeriosu85 View Post
    appreciate the response, as far as the area to grease, i did, and subsequent 100 dry fires....still doing it occasionally. Upon inspection it appears that the disconnector hook on the hammer...does not engage hardly at all. I'm talking just a SLIVER, maybe i do not know the whole process on these trigger groups but it appears it should have more positive contact.
    Then I would replace parts - it is too important to not be sure that it is right. The most notorious part in the FCG (in my experience) is the disconnector, but I would swap out the hammer, trigger, and springs as well.
    Please let me know if I have offended you...
    I would like to move on to my next task.


    I provide legal consultation and training - specializing in the Law of Gravity.

  6. #6
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    I can't tell, but has your lower been painted or coated i.e. cerakote, duracoat etc?
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerseymike View Post
    I can't tell, but has your lower been painted or coated i.e. cerakote, duracoat etc?
    negative.


    Quote Originally Posted by K.L. Davis View Post
    Then I would replace parts - it is too important to not be sure that it is right. The most notorious part in the FCG (in my experience) is the disconnector, but I would swap out the hammer, trigger, and springs as well.
    Might just throw in an ALG (ACT) trigger and call it good. Seems impossible to find just a standard DD or LMT trigger group anywhere without dropping money for a whole LPK.

    Also by the way, I appreciate all your guy's replies and help
    Last edited by azeriosu85; 01-07-14 at 01:01.

  8. #8
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    Get the ALG QMS. You will be just as happy as will your wallet.

    Quote Originally Posted by azeriosu85 View Post
    negative.




    Might just throw in an ALG (ACT) trigger and call it good. Seems impossible to find just a standard DD or LMT trigger group anywhere without dropping money for a whole LPK.

    Also by the way, I appreciate all your guy's replies and help



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  9. #9
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    I have a couple of extra trigger groups laying around if you want a stock trigger we can make a deal. They have been used very little.

  10. #10
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    What about the disconnect spring,,,is it in correct, one end is bigger than the other,large end go in the recces.

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