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Thread: Barrel installation "botchery"?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polymerhead View Post
    Is there copper on the bore of the flash hider in this photo? Any contact between the bullet & the FH will strong shots.
    Sharp eye, sir. I do think that is copper. I did spend some time with Hoppes Elite so it may be leftover from that wash-out. Is it reasonable that <500 rounds through this barrel would justify that much copper removal if bullets are not dinging the muzzle device on the way out?

    I do not actually see any signs of contact when looking closer at the edge of the muzzle and inside the FH. I do see what I believe should be adequate clearance. I will certainly take her to the range with FH removed to observe results. Thank you.

  2. #12
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    Try shooting the carbine with the muzzle device removed
    INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
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  3. #13
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    I had an FAL that came new with a non-concentric flash hider. The rounds hit it on the way out and I was getting four inch groups at 25 FEET. A new flash hider fixed it.

    I'm not a guru when it comes to AR accuracy. Of all those I've assembled, I only test fired them at short range for function and basic targeting. Nobody ever complained. OTOH, if I was building an AR for accuracy, I'd wonder how square the front of the upper was to its bore, and take steps to correct it if it was found to be lacking. Brownells and a few other companies make squaring tools and fixtures for that. I'd be very careful to make sure the barrel was not a sloppy fit in the upper and also that the barrels bore was concentric with the upper's bore. Finally, I'd worry about the bolt carriers bore being square and concentric with the rifles bore (centered and not tilted).

    The bolt gun boys shake their heads and wonder how the AR can do so well. I dunno either. But taking pains with things is not a bad thing. You've swapped barrels and BCG's. You might wanna make sure the front of the upper is square, and that the barrel nut is also good. The idea is to have that barrel un-tilted in any way, and even pressure on its shoulder.

    Some smart guru of the AR accuracy will probably come correct me. I'm open to tweakage in the thought train.

  4. #14
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    The barrel extension should fit very snug into the upper receiver...
    Ditch the last DPMS part and you should be GTG.
    “The rifle itself has no moral stature, since it has no will of its own. Naturally, it may be used by evil men for evil purposes, but there are more good men than evil, and while the latter cannot be persuaded to the path of righteousness by propaganda, they can certainly be corrected by good men with rifles." - John Dean "Jeff" Cooper, The Art of the Rifle

  5. #15
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    I do remember there being a very loose fit between barrel and upper receiver, but I figure the barrel nut should take care of any issue there.
    This is the common thing between the two barrels. It is most likely your issue.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by drarmament View Post
    If your receiver is loose it will effect accuracy and will not keep a stable sight pic. The barrel nut is use to hold the barrel so you don't shoot it down range. I would get a thing to stabilize the upper and lower. I don't remember what is called . A little loose is fine.
    Receiver wobble doesn't do squat accuracy wise. Probably good to use the search button regarding this.

    Also wedge is pointless as an fyi. And shooting a barrel down range? Really?
    From TOS ... "buy the shit out of that thing, all the mil spec is just nonsense."

  7. #17
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    Please do not spread disinformation.

    Quote Originally Posted by drarmament View Post
    If your receiver is loose it will effect accuracy and will not keep a stable sight pic. The barrel nut is use to hold the barrel so you don't shoot it down range. I would get a thing to stabilize the upper and lower. I don't remember what is called . A little loose is fine.



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  8. #18
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    Let me restate what i meant. The barrel nut is to hold the barrel on to the upper receiver. It will not shoot the barrel off. With the barrel aligned with the upper receiver and proper torque their should be no movement. If there is movement you have to look at the alignment pin on the barrel ext or the slot on the upper receiver to see if it's worn. If that checks out fine, look at the threads of the upper receiver and barrel nut. Also over torquing will damage the upper, barrel nut or barrel ext.

    The is no affect to cause inaccuracies when the upper and lower has movement, but depending how you position yourself and the rifle will determine the out of your group. I myself hold the upper loose and a looser lower will cause me to take a longer time to acquire my sight picture. But that's just me.

    I also agree if the round is hitting the muzzle device it will cause the round to tumble


    I hope this explain it more clear then my previous comment.
    Last edited by drarmament; 01-19-14 at 08:39.

  9. #19
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    I'm going to second the notion that the muzzle device has a high probability of causing your issue. Put a standard A2 on it (being sure to torque it properly) and test it out. You'll likely see your problem fixed. This also happens to be the least expensive fix if your going to throw parts at it.

  10. #20
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    Much thanks for all the advice. cjb brings up a really good point about concentricity of barrel extension, upper receiver, and bolt even though everything may be tightened down and to proper numbers and AKDoug correctly points out it is one of the last common parts... E-Man reminds me of the reputation the manufacturer of the current upper has...

    In the name of good troubleshooting, I'll definitely get it out without the muzzle device to see what happens. Meanwhile, if it does happen to come down to replacing the upper, would this upper from BCM be a decent choice? While BCM is a trusted vendor, the name of the manufacturer of this upper is not mentioned for reputation checks. No offense to BCM here; please understand.

    Thanks again.

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