I know some ppl will swear by the BFH. It's like a magic tool to them
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I know some ppl will swear by the BFH. It's like a magic tool to them
Small Arms Repairers (MOS 91F) in the Army have been known to do this quite frequently.
This is not correct.
When using barrel vice blocks you are much more likely to have the upper shift than when using receiver vice blocks.
Using barrel blocks during assembly was the main reason for Old Bushmaster of Maine having so many canted FSBs.
Receiver blocks became popular because of this problem. Not that receiver blocks solved the problem completely, though it did make it less likely to happen.
Interesting.
Kind of what I figured.
Thanks for the info.![]()
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In figuring this issue out by hands on ...my buddies that use barrel vise blocks rarely encounter this. Think about that maybe the receivers are meant to index to the left side of the pin slot ( left side while looking at it from the front ) when torqued the index pin will naturally stay and stop to the left . When in an upper receiver block vise any slop has it shift right.
ARE you Human , Negative , I am COG popsicle.
That sounds right.
What we really need is something that is able to hold both the barrel and the upper receiver in alignment while applying torque to the barrel nut.
Windham Weaponry has a tool that does this but they aren't selling it.
Also, Bill Geissele said he was looking into making a tool that does this but I haven't seen anything yet.
With two people it is easier, but I have done roughly 20 by myself.
With the receiver mounted in a vise block, I position the upper with the barrel on the bench side of my vise. I place the dowel in the front sight base and pivot the vise until the bottom of the dowel rod makes contact with the side of the bench, then rotate the vise/upper toward the bench until there is a bow in the dowel rod. This frees up both hands to engage the teeth of the barrel nut with the barrel nut wrench/torque wrench.
One thing I have noticed over the years is that after I get about 8 ft.lbs of torque on the barrel nut, tension on the dowel rod is no longer necessary.
I want my rifle windage at mechanical zero after zeroing the rifle on the range on a no wind day. In almost all cases I have been able to do this using the technique I decribed. If I had to do this day in and day out for a living, I would rig a fixture to hold the wood dowel. There are other ways to hold the front sight base, but I don't want to see any new tool marks when I am finished with the job.
I have been told countless times that 13 clicks from mechanical windage zero is acceptable, to which I vehemently disagree. I have had to use this technique to zero windage on all but 3 of the AR carbines/rifles I have purchased since 1985 and have performed this task for several people I know in the shooting community.
Last edited by T2C; 02-02-14 at 08:09.
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