What light and mount combinations are popular now?

[Roc_Kor]

They're idiots.

Run em; you'll be fine.

As the idiot that started that thread, I agree. You'll be absolutely fine using the G2X/6PX/P2X series of lights as weapon lights for most, if not all, applications.

For the record, what I said was that the G2X/6PX/P2X were not intended to be used as weapon lights. However there are tons of people out there throwing buckets of ammo downrange that have essentially proven that the X-series handhelds are at least as durable as the rest of the SureFire line. And even if you did manage to break one, SureFire always takes care of you.

The purpose of my thread was to see if anyone actually had broken one of those lights in that role, to either confirm or disprove that original intention, and not to dissuade anyone from the use of the X-series handhelds as weapon lights. Though looking back I could see why someone reading my thread would think that.

[Doc Safari]

As I stated in another thread, I believe the urban legend that G2's et al are subject to being damaged by normal use (recoil) came about after people experienced breakeages with incandescent bulbs. AFAIK this whole controversy went away when LED's became prevalent. I actually had to change the heads to LED's on my first two Surefires after reading a bunch of posts on incandescent breakage and needing shock isolation kits, etc.

[bruin]

I'm hesitant to spend $200 or $300 on a weapon light.

I also know my friend wants to mount the light to the front sight base.

If FSB mounting is a must, check out the Mossie Tactics 2400 with a Surefire X300U (and Unity Tactical EXO) or Streamlight TLR-1 HL. If he's got rail space behind the FSB, a cheaper option is the IWC Thorntail and Surefire P2X Fury Tactical or EAG version. That would keep you under $200 and give you a flexible mounting system with a proven 500 lumen light.

[Outlander Systems]

Never wanted to imply you were in idiot, bro ham.

Anyone who says they aren't acceptable for use is blowing smoke up thy ass, though.

As stated:

As I stated in another thread, I believe the urban legend that G2's et al are subject to being damaged by normal use (recoil) came about after people experienced breakeages with incandescent bulbs. AFAIK this whole controversy went away when LED's became prevalent. I actually had to change the heads to LED's on my first two Surefires after reading a bunch of posts on incandescent breakage and needing shock isolation kits, etc.

^ this is why people are shy about running non "weaponlights".

A standard G2 (Incan) can give up the ghost under heavy recoil.

Roc_Kor, your statement, "...for most, if not all, applications" is on the money. Unless you have a specific need for additional options like NV-compatibility, tape switches, etc. you will be well-served by a G2/6P/E-series light.

I have run a lot of lights that weren't sold as weaponlights, and they have all performed when summoned. My biggest caveat is to make sure you do not get a dual-output light as a Weaponlight. Tried it with an E1B and an E2L and they are sub-optimal.

All the above being said, the tailcaps on the millennium series weaponlights are my personal favorite.

YMMV

As the idiot that started that thread, I agree. You'll be absolutely fine using the G2X/6PX/P2X series of lights as weapon lights for most, if not all, applications.

For the record, what I said was that the G2X/6PX/P2X were not intended to be used as weapon lights. However there are tons of people out there throwing buckets of ammo downrange that have essentially proven that the X-series handhelds are at least as durable as the rest of the SureFire line. And even if you did manage to break one, SureFire always takes care of you.

The purpose of my thread was to see if anyone actually had broken one of those lights in that role, to either confirm or disprove that original intention, and not to dissuade anyone from the use of the X-series handhelds as weapon lights. Though looking back I could see why someone reading my thread would think that.

[TehLlama]

I'm still a big fan of the VTAC L4's, especially in 3V flavor, with any aftermarket mount. I've got one on a VLTOR mount, one on an 03DG offset mount, and another as a tertiary light system. I'd argue these are the cost conscious version of the Scout series of light, since they share the KX-(N) heads and Z38 tailcaps, just require an aftermarket mount to attach it to a rifle (in offset form, something required for the scout lights anyway).

[ra2bach]

I like the "pistol" lights at 12:00 but side mounted, the "handheld" lights work just as well, IMO. I always carry a spare light on my belt so if the first one goes TU, I can R&R and motor on.

I like the Viking Tactics mount - cheap, lightweight, and I prefer something made out of a less rigid material than my rail. in the event of a severe impact, I want the attachment to fail before the expensive part...

[Doc Safari]

My LGS has a glut of Surefire G2's. Why couldn't I just mount one to the Midwest Industries FSB rail using a scope ring?

[ucrt]

.

FWIW, I use Surefire 6P with Malkoff LED, a Clicky switch on the FSB with the GG&G SlicThing (I like 2 screws) with "whatever" (Weaver) is low 1" scope ring with "wing nut" to remove the light easily if I need to.

I agree with a single mode light and I like to be able to remove the light if I need to without having to get tools.
If I had to buy now, I'd get the 6PX Defender (aluminum body, single mode w/clicky) for $80 mounted on a GG&G Slic Thing and 1" rings ... or try the Elzetta ZFH1500 (looks practical).

Side note...watch out for on-the-shelf Surefire lights or really good prices online. Surefire has significantly improved the LED lumen outputs and have added clicky's to some of their lights but on-the-shelf items may be the older lower lumen lights and twist type switches.

But maybe it's just me...

.

[Outlander Systems]

My LGS has a glut of Surefire G2's. Why couldn't I just mount one to the Midwest Industries FSB rail using a scope ring?

Attachment 24249

Picture is about 8 years old.

It CAN be done, but it is inefficient at best. Couple of cheap scope rings and an old-school G2L.

It didn't take me long to figure out that setup sucked. You can get a VTAC mount or a Magpul mount for cheap.

FWIW, the scope rings broke during training.

YMMV

[SpeedRacer]

My LGS has a glut of Surefire G2's. Why couldn't I just mount one to the Midwest Industries FSB rail using a scope ring?

I ran that setup for a while when I was ballin' on a budget (albeit with a VLTOR Scout mount vs scope ring). It actually positions the light well and worked just fine. I also hacked off the right side pic rail on the MI mount to lighten it up a bit.

Actually, if I can dig them up you can have them. They hardly look new but they'll serve you well. Shoot me a PM.