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Thread: Softening Recoil?

  1. #11
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    adjustable gas block with that A-5 system and it will have the recoil of a burping baby

  2. #12
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    Mark hit it pretty much on the head. heres the order i would work in until you are satisfied which DOES get expensive if you are that concerned about it

    1: order an H2 buffer, test results.

    2: order vltor A5 buffer/tube kit, again, test results and play with different buffer sizes.
    note: factory stock can be used but keep in mind that stock will not touch your receiver plate when fully collapsed due to length of the tube

    3: order a decent comp, my recommendation goes to BCM or a precision armament AFAB mini as they are both well balanced comps

    4: order a reputable mid-length barrel/gas tube
    note: adco can modify your existing barrel by filling and moving the gas tube whole then you just need a new gas tube and maybe a gas block/front sight block(depending how you are setup now)
    Last edited by mikeith; 03-07-14 at 12:22.

  3. #13
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    Ive got a Daniels H2 buffer I can try out and see is it makes any changes. I am leaning toward a A5 system as I see so many people happy with them. Comp wise I will check out the BCM, have you ever used it, did it make a difference in your rifle? As far as modifying a barrel, I would just assume grab another barrel and change the gas system building another upper but that is going to be a last resort. Thanks man.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerhelo View Post
    Ive got a Daniels H2 buffer I can try out and see is it makes any changes. I am leaning toward a A5 system as I see so many people happy with them. Comp wise I will check out the BCM, have you ever used it, did it make a difference in your rifle? As far as modifying a barrel, I would just assume grab another barrel and change the gas system building another upper but that is going to be a last resort. Thanks man.
    With an adjustable gas block you can tune the gas to the buffer and spring, (unless your shooting full auto mag dumps) there are some very reliable adjustable gas blocks out there right now. Would require some changes to carbine.. like a FF handguard and some new sights.. but thats just part of the fun.
    Last edited by quaesitor logica; 03-07-14 at 12:38.

  5. #15
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    Yeah. I'm not big on barrel mods either. I have one adjustable gas block, but that is on a Sabre Defense 11.5 that was just massively overgassed beyond an H3 even taming it.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  6. #16
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    I have an A5 and a Battlecomp on my 6920. Shoots softer, no issues.

  7. #17
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    The trouble with that is I am running a 15" VTAC rail, not a lot of room under that rail for gas blocks other than the Daniels or I could cut the fixed a2 off the FFSB that came on the barrel.

  8. #18
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    I would get the right buffer in your rifle before adding a compensator. The comp will just mask an over-gassing problem. Back when I was building rifles for people, I kept the whole range of buffers and springs on hand and would tune the rifles I built or worked on. It may not be worth it to you to go out and buy one of everything, but between your friends you may have enough options to figure out what you need.

    My theory was to put the heaviest buffer in a rifle that wouldn't cause reliability problems. I would test it by loading the chamber and locking in a fully loaded, topped off 30 round magazine to put the greatest amount of resistance on the BCG. I would then fire the rifle "limp-wristed" from the hip. My goal was to ensure that the rifle would operate under worst-case conditions: resistance on the BCG and a poor shooting platform. I would also use the shooter's lightest intended load. I would put in progressively heavier buffers until the rifle failed to operate correctly under these conditions (and use the heaviest buffer that did not fail).

    The result was that I likely put in slightly lighter buffers than others would in some circumstances, but I was making sure the rifle was reliable.

    I sometimes would also test to make sure a buffer/spring combo wasn't too light. I usually used the too-light-buffer test to confirm that a suspected rifle did, in fact, have a buffer installed that was too light. To test for that, I would basically do the opposite of my previous test. I would load hot military loads with only two rounds in the magazine and a good coat of lube on the BCG. I would brace the butt stock against a fixed object and fire the rifle. A too light buffer would cause bolt-over malfunctions (bolt moving faster than the magazine could feed the next round) and/or the extractor would damage the cartridge case rim.

  9. #19
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    I don't disagree at all with getting your carbine buffered properly. I'd certainly do that first, as a properly gassed and buffered carbine suits my tastes just fine...and honestly provided me with better gains in terms of splits than brakes did.

    While it's all very subjective, and you can't automatically discount reports to the contrary, in my opinion if you do adjust the buffer/action spring setup and still want to tame it with a brake, going ahead and getting a full blown brake would be my advice. There's room in the world for brakes on 5.56 carbines; they help protect suppressors from erosion, save a little bit of time off splits when shooting very close targets(generally irrelevant amounts of time for most of us as compared to transitions etc...,) and they do cool things like pop holes in barricades during competition.

    In my experience, the compromise brakes don't really compromise on anything other than their ability to actually reduce recoil. They're going to be nearly as concussive for shooters in close proximity as true brakes, will show a lot of flash compared to flash suppressors, and so forth. If you truly need a brake AND need to use it "tactically" then maybe the compromise brakes serve a purpose...but I don't really see a scenario(shy of having a sound suppressor mounted to it) where the benefits aren't outweighed by the negatives in that scenario vs. using a flash suppressor.

    If you really want a brake, the best I've ever shot are designs that have been around a while. These are the three best I've ever experienced, though different shooters will prefer different impulses and there's no such thing as "best" because of that.
    http://stores.sjcguns.com/lund-sjc-2...n-compensator/

    http://triangleshootingsports.com/pr...thunder-comps/

    http://www.surefire.com/sfmb-556-1-2-28.html

    Things like flash suppression are much less subjective, though still subject to a tremendous number of variables like ammunition, ambient light, barrel length etc.... For instance you can see visible flash/flame out of those three brakes in full sunlight on shorter barrels with hot ammunition, and the jets of flame are still there at night. You cannot see flash out of a triple tap/battlecomp/PWS 556 brakes during the day, but there's nearly as much signature as the big brakes on very dark nights...they look like they're throwing a shower of sparks.

  10. #20
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    Appreciate the insight. I run a Daniels climb mitigator on one of my rifles but everything else has a standard A2 flash hider. Not much difference in the climb mitigator, little but not much. I am thinking of going with a A5 buffer system and start there. Think that by the time I purchase multiple buffers it would get costly.

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