I use a casing from a .50 Beowolf cartridge, a bit more work but it gets the job done and it's free, have been using it for more than 10 years now lol.
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I use a casing from a .50 Beowolf cartridge, a bit more work but it gets the job done and it's free, have been using it for more than 10 years now lol.
Roger Wang
Forward Controls Design
Simplicity is the sign of truth
Or let it soak in a solvent bath, eventually it'll crumble, but it just contaminates the solvent. I just scrape mine like others.
I never used to clean the bolt tail...until I noticed some pitting and corrosion on the tail of one of my Colt bolts. Figured it was trapping moisture and allowing it to corrode or pit the metal. So I started scraping it every time.
I know violence isn't the answer.........I got it wrong on purpose.
I had a guy tell me the same thing about his. He was following the more loose cleaning suggestions some offer and when he finally got around to taking it down to the bone he saw pitting. Swore he'd make sure it never happened again. In fairness he lives here in TN and the humidity in the summer does indeed offer quite a bit of moisture to be trapped. Out in AZ for instance? Maybe they could get away with it, I dunno. I'll keep mine clear of carbon.
11C2P '83-'87
Airborne Infantry
Hey, with regard to the 3M "scratchy" pads: I have an OLD one that I use to clean carbon on pistons or bolt tails. It's well-worn and kind of "oily". It doesn't seem as abrasive as a new green pad (obviously) but I don't remember it being so rough when new. Hell, we used those things in the Army 30 years ago although this one isn't quite so old!
Isn't the gray pad the next one down from green in abrasiveness? The tail of my chromed bolt is more shiny than the rest it so I know it's "polishing" it a bit.
My concern is that I have a newly-purchased NP3 BCG and when I use it I don't want to remove the finish with an overly-abrasive scratchy pad. From what I've read NP3 is pretty durable but less resistant to abrasion than hard chrome. Considering the elbow grease I use now with the green one to remove carbon (that polishes the chrome) I fear it may actually begin removing the NP3.
11C2P '83-'87
Airborne Infantry
+1
CATM4 scrapes it off.
Since treating the bolt with RAND CLP...crud comes off easy
No...I'm not crazy - and neither AM I !! Next question!!
Some of the posters in this thread are doing more damage to their weapons than any bad will ever come from carbon on the bolt.
Our CO (he was a Mustang, which might have something to do with it) specifically told our armorers to stop wet Q tip inspecting weapons precisely because mentalities like the above are not conducive to long term reliability. Having a sparkling clean weapon is not the litmus test for being a highly trained soldier anymore thanks to commanders with common sense and NCOs who've spent enough time in the suck to know it is just a way to play games with Lance Corporals.
I know you specifically said you didn't want people like me replying, OP. But oh well. This thread is full of tons of bad advice and doesn't belong on this forum.
Last edited by Eurodriver; 03-11-14 at 23:00.
Why do the loudest do the least?
I wiped three hundred rounds of accumulated crud off of a bolt tail with a paper towel Sunday. That was from an initial application and three range session over a period of 5 months. No re-application.Must state that I didn't "treat" it with FireClean before shooting (was using EWL)
You MUST follow the prep directions with Fireclean for it to work to the maximum. Those really aren't suggestions, they are a must-do. The Fireclean has to get down to the base metal to inhibit fouling from sticking.
Get ALL the carbon and old lube off, degrease the metal COMPLETELY with something like Isopropyl Alcohol and once dry, apply the Fireclean.
I first tried Fireclean on an already fouled rifle and it did not do the magic. I tried it on a new build and it workd like a charm.
Last edited by Heavy Metal; 03-11-14 at 23:24.
My brother saw Deliverance and bought a Bow. I saw Deliverance and bought an AR-15.
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