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FWIW, 9.0 on top, 10.0 on bottom
Also, not to confuse you even more, but if you're going to run a fixed FSB you could go with something like the Daniel Defense AR15 Lite Rail 12.0 FSP
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Man do those DD RIS II Mk18 rails look GOOD.
I love the look of the area right up near the bolt up plate. On the regular LITE Rails, you see THREE bolts on each side (I think), but with that RIS II Mk18, you only see TWO bolts on each side, and then there is that extra "FLAT" right there, on the bolt up plate, similar to how a Troy rail looks on the side right there. That bolt up plate just looks SO much better than a regular LITE rail.
I wonder if DD would be willing to make me on in BLACK, and even better yet, I wonder if they'd make me one for an AR10???
I'd skip the Noveske/SWS rail in a second, and put one of those on my AR10 build. Thanks for the pics gotm4 and robs!
Thanks all of you for the pics and the input. Not having my 6920 infront of me (yet) is it just two knockout pins at the bottom of the fsb that clamp it onto the barrel? Would I have to remove the stock flashider to then slide it down the barrel to get it off? Sorry about such basic questions but suffering from being a noob.
Last edited by intrepidagent; 05-25-08 at 13:26. Reason: additions
apologies to the OP for jumping in on this thread
here's a quick 'shop of 10" / 11" / 12" rails (LaRue were used as they are the only models available on their profiler tool):
The 12" rail seems a little long for my tastes; I'll have to mull it over. Again, sorry if this is diverting too much from the OP.
Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
Chief Armorer for Corp Arms (FFL 07-08/SOT 02)
Yes bro,
You must tap out the FSB taper pins, and MAKE SURE you tap the out in the CORRECT direction, as they are tapered. You will need to tap them out from the small diameter, TOWARDS the large diameter tip of the pins. I'm sure you understand that.
Yes, you will also have to take the flash hider off, for the FSB to slip off the bbl.
Make sure you put a 2x4 block of wood under the FSB when you are tapping out the pins. Start the pins with SHARP whacks, using a good punch, and then finish tapping them out with a proper sized punch that will fit through the hole. Starrett makes a NAIL SET, with a CUPPED/DOMED point, which fits the round conical shape of the taper pins. It's not totally necessary, but is what most armorers use for this procedure. You can use a flat faced punch/nail set if you know what you are doing though.
You might also want a "gas tube roll pin punch" to remove the FSB from the gas tube. You COULD skip this step, and just leave the gas tube on the FSB, but this might only be good for experienced armorers to do.
It's up to you, and your comfort level.
My bad,
Looks like gotm4 beat me to to "punch" (pun intended).
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