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Thread: Mid length rail on a 6920

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by gotm4 View Post
    ...Here's one I recently did while it was still attached to the barrel since I was installing a 10" Troy rail (which clamps onto the stock/OEM barrel nut) and the muzzle device was perm. mounted.
    I got a peek at that the other day in the shop, nice. I considered pricing out a separate upper built in this fashion, but it'll probably be cheaper to just modify the one(s) I have. I'll stop in this week to pick your brain!

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    IMHO if you're going that route I'd go with a 10.0 or 11.0 depending on your preference and what each maker has available.
    thanks rob, I'm going to 'shop up a couple more examples (with longer rails) to see if it looks a little less obnoxious with the longer barrel.

    I'll put up more pics in a bit...

  3. #13
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    FWIW, 9.0 on top, 10.0 on bottom



    Also, not to confuse you even more, but if you're going to run a fixed FSB you could go with something like the Daniel Defense AR15 Lite Rail 12.0 FSP

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    ...Also, not to confuse you even more, but if you're going to run a fixed FSB you could go with something like the Daniel Defense AR15 Lite Rail 12.0 FSP
    thanks for the profile shot of the 9.0 v 10.0 rob_s. I forgot about DD's option that allows me to keep my current FSB; I'll check into that as well.

  5. #15
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    Man do those DD RIS II Mk18 rails look GOOD.
    I love the look of the area right up near the bolt up plate. On the regular LITE Rails, you see THREE bolts on each side (I think), but with that RIS II Mk18, you only see TWO bolts on each side, and then there is that extra "FLAT" right there, on the bolt up plate, similar to how a Troy rail looks on the side right there. That bolt up plate just looks SO much better than a regular LITE rail.
    I wonder if DD would be willing to make me on in BLACK, and even better yet, I wonder if they'd make me one for an AR10???
    I'd skip the Noveske/SWS rail in a second, and put one of those on my AR10 build. Thanks for the pics gotm4 and robs!

  6. #16
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    Thanks all of you for the pics and the input. Not having my 6920 infront of me (yet) is it just two knockout pins at the bottom of the fsb that clamp it onto the barrel? Would I have to remove the stock flashider to then slide it down the barrel to get it off? Sorry about such basic questions but suffering from being a noob.
    Last edited by intrepidagent; 05-25-08 at 13:26. Reason: additions

  7. #17
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    apologies to the OP for jumping in on this thread

    here's a quick 'shop of 10" / 11" / 12" rails (LaRue were used as they are the only models available on their profiler tool):



    The 12" rail seems a little long for my tastes; I'll have to mull it over. Again, sorry if this is diverting too much from the OP.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by intrepidagent View Post
    Thanks all of you for the pics and the input. Not having my 6920 infront of me (yet) is it just two knockout pins at the bottom of the fsb that clamp it onto the barrel? Would I have to remove the stock flashider to then slide it down the barrel to get it off? Sorry about such basic questions but suffering from being a noob.
    Yes to get the FSB, handguard cap or barrel nut off the muzzle device must be removed. On Colt barrel your taper pins will be knocked out from left to right (muzzle facing away from you).
    Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
    Chief Armorer for Corp Arms (FFL 07-08/SOT 02)

  9. #19
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    Yes bro,
    You must tap out the FSB taper pins, and MAKE SURE you tap the out in the CORRECT direction, as they are tapered. You will need to tap them out from the small diameter, TOWARDS the large diameter tip of the pins. I'm sure you understand that.
    Yes, you will also have to take the flash hider off, for the FSB to slip off the bbl.
    Make sure you put a 2x4 block of wood under the FSB when you are tapping out the pins. Start the pins with SHARP whacks, using a good punch, and then finish tapping them out with a proper sized punch that will fit through the hole. Starrett makes a NAIL SET, with a CUPPED/DOMED point, which fits the round conical shape of the taper pins. It's not totally necessary, but is what most armorers use for this procedure. You can use a flat faced punch/nail set if you know what you are doing though.
    You might also want a "gas tube roll pin punch" to remove the FSB from the gas tube. You COULD skip this step, and just leave the gas tube on the FSB, but this might only be good for experienced armorers to do.
    It's up to you, and your comfort level.

  10. #20
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    My bad,
    Looks like gotm4 beat me to to "punch" (pun intended).

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