Jax, great post. Thank you for contributing to the thread.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
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Jax, great post. Thank you for contributing to the thread.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
"That thing looks about as enjoyable as a bowl of exploding dicks." - Magic_Salad0892
"The body cannot go where the mind has not already been."
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I'm not trying to be a smartass, but why not just shoot it and let the weapon lap itself in? This is what Les Baer does with their 1911's, and an AR is not like a Baer 1911 that won't function reliably until the break-in is performed (per Les Baer's staff when I owned one). It's good to go out of the box, and just gets better with time as it laps itself in. I would think it would do a better job, as well, hitting only the spots it needs to.
A few years back I did get an enhanced carrier with a burr on a rail that ate through the anodizing fast. I can see breaking the corners and taking off any high spots and just run it.
"That thing looks about as enjoyable as a bowl of exploding dicks." - Magic_Salad0892
"The body cannot go where the mind has not already been."
Reminds me of breaking hard on empty freeways to wear in new brake pads. Make it work right now so if you really need it, it's already to spec.
"I never learned from a man who agreed with me." Robert A. Heinlein
That is completely different. If you don't break in pads correctly, you will end up with hot-spots on the rotors where the deposits are un-even on the rotor and pad. Pad material MUST transfer to the rotor for brakes to correctly work. Fail to effect this transfer evenly, and you will have issues. Further, some brake-pads need to be properly broken in to avoid "green fade". My Z06 was sortof like that, and the ZR1 and Z07's with ceramic brakes were CERTAINLY like that.
By the time you have zeroed the weapon and shot a few drills with it, things should be polished nicely. At least, that's how all of my rifles have been.
"That thing looks about as enjoyable as a bowl of exploding dicks." - Magic_Salad0892
"The body cannot go where the mind has not already been."
I think I would just degrease real well and apply a thick coating of moly lube before taking off any parkerizing or finish. How rough are those LMT bolts? The MIM carrier key keeps me away. I cannot recall a single malfunction ever with my Spikes and BCM BCG's. They run no problem from the factory,as they should.
I would be concerned about removing the finish as well. I'm also concerned with polishing the sides of the gas key - removing burrs is one thing, but considering the number of case-hardened MIM and investment cast gas keys floating around, I'd be too afraid that I'd remove the hardened layer, leaving a soft-sided gas key which doesn't sound like a good idea. Are most carriers through-hardened or case-hardened?
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