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Thread: KNS Anti Rotation Pins....Is it a fluke or is there something technical behind it.

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    This is at the sacrifice of the pins being allowed to roll in the lower. Without that, all the friction is forced onto the pin. Possibly a non-issue... but guys have made the argument over the years that if the pin fails, it can damage the lower pin hole.
    I never thought of that. So if a anti rotation pin fails, it will damage the lower possibly?

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  2. #12
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    I don't think the original style pins are likely to rotate in the receiver. The springs put a bit of pressure against the pins and there is a bit of natural sticktion when it's steel & aluminum. It only makes sense to size the pins & holes so the harder hammer & trigger rotate around the pin than to have the pin to rotate in the aluminum receiver and cause fretting.

    The pins fretting in the receiver isn't a problem, otherwise we'd be complaining about all the threads concerning the use of steel bushings to repair worn pin holes
    INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
    1. ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
    2. MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
    3. MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
    4. BOOM!
    5. HA-HA!!

    -WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"

    http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/DSC_0114.jpg
    I am American

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    I don't think the original style pins are likely to rotate in the receiver.
    I can go cock my hammer on most of my ARs now and watch the pin turn.

    (I guess I should say... I've cocked the hammer on my ARs before and watched the pin roll)
    Last edited by markm; 04-22-14 at 11:56.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  4. #14
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    Hmm, I'll have to go check mine. Still, I don't believe it to be a real problem
    INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
    1. ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
    2. MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
    3. MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
    4. BOOM!
    5. HA-HA!!

    -WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"

    http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/DSC_0114.jpg
    I am American

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    Hmm, I'll have to go check mine. Still, I don't believe it to be a real problem
    Might not be.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    Hmm, I'll have to go check mine. Still, I don't believe it to be a real problem
    Have been told by a few Industry Pros that it would take around 1.5M trigger pulls to wear the anodizing with the pins.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by hk_shootr View Post
    Have been told by a few Industry Pros that it would take around 1.5M trigger pulls to wear the anodizing with the pins.
    Yep. A lot of guys buy the KNS pins thinking they're saving their lower. But every time that comes up, several prior service guys will note the ANCIENT M16s they saw in the military racks that are still going.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by hk_shootr View Post
    Have been told by a few Industry Pros that it would take around 1.5M trigger pulls to wear the anodizing with the pins.
    Im not really worried about my FCG holes egging out. Like you said, it takes more trigger pulls than I could ever put on it and is it ever did happen, there are fixes for it.

    I can see why someone would want to use them on an 80% lower that was only Cerakoted and not Anodized. I don't think Cerakote is as hard as anodizing.

    Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    I don't think the original style pins are likely to rotate in the receiver. The springs put a bit of pressure against the pins and there is a bit of natural sticktion when it's steel & aluminum. It only makes sense to size the pins & holes so the harder hammer & trigger rotate around the pin than to have the pin to rotate in the aluminum receiver and cause fretting.

    The pins fretting in the receiver isn't a problem, otherwise we'd be complaining about all the threads concerning the use of steel bushings to repair worn pin holes
    Look closely at your pins as you cock the hammer and press the trigger. The hammer pin will rotate with the hammer due to the J-Spring inside the hammer that captures the pin.

    When pressing the trigger, the trigger pin will rotate slightly but not nearly as much as the hammer pin. It pretty much just rocks back and forth.

    Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Obscenejesster View Post
    I can see why someone would want to use them on an 80% lower that was only Cerakoted and not Anodized. I don't think Cerakote is as hard as anodizing.
    This is where I see KNS pins as beneficial. Not necessarily from wear issues but from out of spec issues. When people see the .156 pin hole spec and ram a 5/32 (.15625) drill bit through the lower that actually makes a .158ish hole not realizing that there wont be a level 3 anodize to build the surface back somewhat. Then they install .154 pins and wonder "why so much slop?" KNS pins will actually keep the trigger to hammer relationship at the right distance.

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