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Thread: Bravo Company KeyMod QD Swivel Mount

  1. #41
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    I need some help. I ordered two and opend them up and threw the packaging /directions away.
    Can some one post the directions if there are any?

    My problem is that when i put it on the rail with the arrow going forward toward the muzzle, the mount does not go all the way forward. Should I "tap" it forward?

    Thanks.
    Colt AR-15/M-16 Armorer, GLock Armorer, HK USP Armorer
    Firearms Instructor

  2. #42
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    Loosen the retention screws. They aren't staked, so they will fall out if you loosen them all the way.

    Make sure the recoil tab under the front edge of the QDSM rides up over the handguard and settles into the slot forward of where you're mounting it. There should be no resistance at all. None. You just have to make sure you're letting everything line up where it needs to be.

    ETA: Re-install using blue loctite or equivalent once you've settled on a location just as you would for any bolt-on Picatinny accessory.
    Last edited by Quiet Riot; 05-06-14 at 11:30.
    aka, "TWANGnBANG"

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackinfl View Post
    I need some help. I ordered two and opend them up and threw the packaging /directions away.
    Can some one post the directions if there are any?

    My problem is that when i put it on the rail with the arrow going forward toward the muzzle, the mount does not go all the way forward. Should I "tap" it forward?

    Thanks.
    Did you back out the screws all the way?

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackinfl View Post
    I need some help.
    This happened to me too. As stated, you need to back the front fastener out just enough to allow the mount to slide forward and hook onto the neck slot.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quiet Riot View Post
    Loosen the retention screws. They aren't staked, so they will fall out if you loosen them all the way.

    Make sure the recoil tab under the front edge of the QDSM rides up over the handguard and settles into the slot forward of where you're mounting it. There should be no resistance at all. None. You just have to make sure you're letting everything line up where it needs to be.

    ETA: Re-install using blue loctite or equivalent once you've settled on a location just as you would for any bolt-on Picatinny accessory.
    I've been using a drop of Loctite Green #290 which is the penetrating or "wicking' formula on the nut side before final assembly, allows "locking" the staked or captured screws.
    Up men! Up! And to your posts! Let no man forget today that he is from Old Virginia! - General George Pickett

  6. #46
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    Thanks. I'll give it a try.
    Colt AR-15/M-16 Armorer, GLock Armorer, HK USP Armorer
    Firearms Instructor

  7. #47
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    Here is my quick review of the pluses and minuses of the BCM QD mount compared to the Noveske QD mount. I got the BCM part beacuse i have a KMR rail that needs a QD.

    Pluses:
    1) Low profile, about 1/8 inc lower than Noveske
    2) Looks great, smooth and sleek vs the blocky Noveske part

    Minuses:
    1) The low profile makes it difficult to use on the 45 degree Keymods on a KMR. The sling swivel loop rubs and binds on the 1913 rails. There is not enough clearance if the sling swivel is mounted more upright/perpendicular to the rail.
    2) The mounting system is not as smooth to use as the regular Keymod HW and makes moving and mounting the a bit akward. The screws have eaten into my KMR Keymod slots when backing them out - it looks like its beyond the finish. I'm nit too worried about gouging the Keymod slots but its a PITA to move around the rail if you want to test out different sling mounting positions. The nuts are not staked so they may/can/will fall out - it's not nearly as bad as the old backing plates but regular Keymod HW provides a better mounting experience.

    Verdict:
    1) I have moved the BCM QD to my Noveske NSR gun, it only has Keymod on the sides so the 45 degree slot incompatibility is a non issue. I have also figured out where I want the QD on this gun, so the (slight) mounting/moving problem is a non issue.
    2) I will mount my Noveske QD on my KMR rail, the taller profile allows fir mounting QD on the 45 and the standard Keymod mounts are more pleasant to use and don't damage the rail.

    This a very good looking and well made part with clever engineering aimed to deliver a low profile and it does that very well, but it is not perfect and has some substantive drawbacks compare to the Noveske part with traditional Keymod mounting HW.
    Last edited by grunz; 05-06-14 at 13:03.

  8. #48
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    I'm curious if the actual combo keymod nut/screw on the BCM QD mount is the part that is patent pending. If you look at them closely, you'll notice they are reverse threaded, so that if you go by the normal righty-tighty-lefty-loosey mantra the screw is actually coming towards you as you tighten it, and thus tightening the keymod head against the back of the KMR/NSR.

    BCM put some thought into the screw, as it reduces the parts count, and is easier to machine. Instead of having a screw plus a keymod nut, it's a single part which can be completely made on a lathe.

  9. #49
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    Ok thanks. Following above direction did the trick. The part floats over the key and drops into the next slot. Perfect no force needed.
    Thanks again.
    Colt AR-15/M-16 Armorer, GLock Armorer, HK USP Armorer
    Firearms Instructor

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slippers View Post
    I'm curious if the actual combo keymod nut/screw on the BCM QD mount is the part that is patent pending. If you look at them closely, you'll notice they are reverse threaded, so that if you go by the normal righty-tighty-lefty-loosey mantra the screw is actually coming towards you as you tighten it, and thus tightening the keymod head against the back of the KMR/NSR.

    BCM put some thought into the screw, as it reduces the parts count, and is easier to machine. Instead of having a screw plus a keymod nut, it's a single part which can be completely made on a lathe.
    That screw is pretty damn clever.

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