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Thread: Tips for precision assembly?

  1. #1
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    Tips for precision assembly?

    Going to try the "precision" game and just replacing barrel on a existing upper that I have (BCM). I'm curious as to any tips to squeeze extra accuracy out of the rifle example would be bedding gas block, bedding (placing red loctie around the barrel extention), truing up the front of the receiver where the barrel nut threads are and etc.

    Thanks!

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    Try to avoid excessive torque on the barrel nut. According to Grant and some of the other M4C moderators/regulars, the ideal torque range is 35-45 ft. lbs.

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    Barrel nut torqued at the lower end of the torque range.

    Everything you mentioned plus a matched headspaced bolt at the minimum end of the spec range.

    You can skip on the matched bolt, but in my experience the rifle will be more accurate with a wider range of different loads. If you're only shooting fire formed brass that you are shoulder bumping, it won't matter.

    A heavy(er) profile QUALITY barrel with a good chamber is paramount.

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    As said above, avoid excessive torque on the barrel nut AND the muzzle device. Just avoid putting too much stress on the barrel in any way possible.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Onyx Z View Post
    As said above, avoid excessive torque on the barrel nut AND the muzzle device. Just avoid putting too much stress on the barrel in any way possible.
    I rec the precision armament muzzle shim set to keep muzzle device torque low.

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    If your going to bed the barrel use loctite 609. It is specifically designed for this type of application. IIRC it is called a sleeve retainer.

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    Check upper reciever for sqare(front). Bed barrel as above. Quality pieces and pay attention to torque specs.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jstone View Post
    If your going to bed the barrel use loctite 609. It is specifically designed for this type of application. IIRC it is called a sleeve retainer.
    Thanks everyone!

    What would the difference been in 609 and 638 as I've seen both mention.

    To bed it just put a coat of loctie around the barrel ext. then slide the barrel in to the receiver. Next, wipe up excessive while supporting the barrel so it doesn't move. Attach barrel nut and tq it down. Is this the correct steps?

    I have a book that tells how to match a bolt to the barrel with the correct specs. But can't remember, I'll try to find that here.

    Ammo I'm shooting is some 62 grain CBS Magtech (5.56) Heard great things about it, so I want to try it. Parts come in Tuesday.

    I also picked up a barrel extension tool to tq the barrel nut down. Same one that geissele sales but it's brownells and some vice padded jaws. I prefer to clamp as close to the muzzle as I can when installing muzzle device. Mine the AAC blackout 2.0 doesn't needed timing or shims (suppressed) so 20 ft-lbs will be good? Using a syrac gas block.

  9. #9
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    You really don't need any of this stuff. Get good components (barrel, rail and trigger) and couple that with good ammo. Most people cannot shoot the potential of their rifles and they often times short change themselves by using crappy ammo and optics.



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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Djstorm100 View Post
    Thanks everyone!

    What would the difference been in 609 and 638 as I've seen both mention.

    To bed it just put a coat of loctie around the barrel ext. then slide the barrel in to the receiver. Next, wipe up excessive while supporting the barrel so it doesn't move. Attach barrel nut and tq it down. Is this the correct steps?

    I have a book that tells how to match a bolt to the barrel with the correct specs. But can't remember, I'll try to find that here.

    Ammo I'm shooting is some 62 grain CBS Magtech (5.56) Heard great things about it, so I want to try it. Parts come in Tuesday.

    I also picked up a barrel extension tool to tq the barrel nut down. Same one that geissele sales but it's brownells and some vice padded jaws. I prefer to clamp as close to the muzzle as I can when installing muzzle device. Mine the AAC blackout 2.0 doesn't needed timing or shims (suppressed) so 20 ft-lbs will be good? Using a syrac gas block.
    All of these "precision" steps won't make the slightest difference if you're using crap ammo.

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