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If they are taper pins make sure he is tapping them correctly, he should be tapping the smallest side out and Tell him to use a big punch like 1/2". Do you happen to know how he is holding the FSB to tap out the pins? Chances are not all of the force is going into the pins. When I pulled mine off I didn't have a block for the FSB so I clamped the FSB upside down in a vice with a towel in between to prevent marring. If you get it tightened down good all of the impact should go into the pins using a 1/2" punch.
Regarding the metal shavings im not sure if im relaying what he said properly. The free float rail has it's own barrel nut, I'm not sure it's GI.
Then the FSB has to come off to change nuts. Shaving the FSB is not your solution.
"You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan
If you can afford more money and it's a GI set up it is possible to buy a new barrel and take of the old with the delta ring and fsb still on, however if there is another gunsmith in the area or you can send it to C4I Grant I recommend that you'll save a whole lot of money having it done right by someone who knows what they are doing.
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Why not a centurion c4 12" FSP rail? No shaving or removing gas block, and longer rails system....
this or the troy alpha rail. i installed one over a cut down fsb and im retarded. i would suggest a high power dremel or an air powered jobber and some spray paint, worked great for me.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...-base-in-place
Besides the centurion rail, I would also recommend the Troy Delta rail which doesn't require any modifications to your rifle and you also have a longer rail system. I have been very impressed with mine and it is a good quality and light rail.
https://troyind.com/products/delta-carbine-blk
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