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Thread: In a pickle with trying to install free float rail, need opinions

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by steyrman13 View Post
    I was thinking of the B rail. From looking at the pics of the mounting surface of the C/D rail, I wouldn't trust it at all. It barely hangs on to the barrel nut and relies on a ring to hold in place on the remaining barrel shoulder, which depending on your barrel profile could be very minimum. Also when you tighten the screws from the rail wouldn't it pull the ring away from the barrel making the only thing to really contact the barrel is four points of contacts from the screws protruding through the ring or just pulling the ring away if they don't protrude at all? Rather than clamping tighter onto the barrel/barrel nut like the Centurion rail? Surely if your GS can't remove the pins he could at least remove the barrel and take the delta ring and retainer off and only modification would be cutting the handguard end cap. Sometimes the shortest easiest route isn't the best.
    Sorry, not really following here..I've never had a rail, much less install one myself. There's a Youtube Video showing installation of the CA rail and that's my only reference point and you don't have to take anything off, just dremel/snip the parts that need to come off.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berserkr556 View Post
    I installed a couple C4 rails for friends and I didn't remove the FSB pins and move it forward. I followed the directions which were written by a Mod here and it was easy. I'd ship it to Grant if you can, if not look for a used C4 and do it yourself.
    I read here somewhere that you don't need to move the FSB forward but that it makes it a lot easier. I guess I'm just not too comfortable/confident that I can do it properly and I have concerns about not being able to return the rifle back to stock in case I need to for whatever reason.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by steyrman13 View Post
    I was thinking of the B rail. From looking at the pics of the mounting surface of the C/D rail, I wouldn't trust it at all. It barely hangs on to the barrel nut and relies on a ring to hold in place on the remaining barrel shoulder, which depending on your barrel profile could be very minimum. Also when you tighten the screws from the rail wouldn't it pull the ring away from the barrel making the only thing to really contact the barrel is four points of contacts from the screws protruding through the ring or just pulling the ring away if they don't protrude at all? Rather than clamping tighter onto the barrel/barrel nut like the Centurion rail? Surely if your GS can't remove the pins he could at least remove the barrel and take the delta ring and retainer off and only modification would be cutting the handguard end cap. Sometimes the shortest easiest route isn't the best.

    That hasn't been the experience that I had with my Troy Delta. Although looking at, I see your concerns but if you install the rail correctly it is rock solid and I could not budge the rail in anyway once installed. Plus the troy delta weighs under 11 oz which is lighter than the centurion and it is a tubular design and much more comfortable to shoot vs a quad rail.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by crusader377 View Post
    That hasn't been the experience that I had with my Troy Delta. Although looking at, I see your concerns but if you install the rail correctly it is rock solid and I could not budge the rail in anyway once installed. Plus the troy delta weighs under 11 oz which is lighter than the centurion and it is a tubular design and much more comfortable to shoot vs a quad rail.
    I'm also currently in the process of reading about quad rail vs tubular rail and have read that tubular rails get hotter than quad rails. Has this been your experience? I was able to fondle an Alpha rail today and the tubular does feel a lot smoother and nicer than a quad rail.

  5. #35
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    There is the rail you need in the EE right now!
    https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...4-FSP-Rail-NIB

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by steyrman13 View Post
    There is the rail you need in the EE right now!
    https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...4-FSP-Rail-NIB
    $285 for a quad?

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toecheese View Post


    $285 for a quad?
    I see you are new here. Do some reading and you will learn the difference.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by steyrman13 View Post
    There is the rail you need in the EE right now!
    https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...4-FSP-Rail-NIB
    Thanks! It's sold pending funds though..but I pm'd the seller.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by llO0DQLE View Post
    Thanks! It's sold pending funds though..but I pm'd the seller.
    No problem....that was quick! IMHO it is a MUCH better rail than the troys. WHat I was trying to say earlier is your gunsmith could at least take the barrel nut off and remove the delta ring without damaging it if you wanted to keep it and then the only thing needing destroying is the handguard endcap if since you couldn't get the FSP off. I do know that I had one that require some PB blaster on the pins and a second set of hands to hold the punch while I whacked them with a 5lb hammer. Using a puck designed to hold the FSP and barrel still for that job.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by steyrman13 View Post
    No problem....that was quick! IMHO it is a MUCH better rail than the troys. WHat I was trying to say earlier is your gunsmith could at least take the barrel nut off and remove the delta ring without damaging it if you wanted to keep it and then the only thing needing destroying is the handguard endcap if since you couldn't get the FSP off. I do know that I had one that require some PB blaster on the pins and a second set of hands to hold the punch while I whacked them with a 5lb hammer. Using a puck designed to hold the FSP and barrel still for that job.
    Ahh gotcha! Yeah, that's an option. Actually, with the Troys probably pricing at at least $260 CAD, this CA C4 would be a better option. I asked him again and he said that the manufacturer drilled into those holes for the gas block and hammered the pins in there without cleaning the metal shavings and they hooked onto the pins. How he ascertained that, I didn't ask. Anyway, he said that the only way he could take it out was if he used a one ton press or something like that.

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