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Thread: Eotech sliding when hand tight

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryno12 View Post
    I've always attributed it to a slight crush of the rail although I never measured anything to confirm. Coincidentally, the two uppers I had to readjust the EXPS to were also BCM's. I had it on a Colt for over a year first and never had to readjust it after the first initial mount. It wasn't until I played musical RDS that I noticed it required readjusting on those two particular uppers. All my other uppers are fine. I've since settled into a configuration that I like & it hasn't moved since. Don't worry about the added pressure required after the adjustment. It shouldn't require anything more than just your hand to snap it in place but it may take a firm push to lock it in.


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    If I understand you I will have to let the rail crush until it "sets" with this particular sight and keep adjusting the screw to make it do so? So far it is adjustable with one hand but the next click from the detent will require a good amount of force. I know the adjustment screw is there for different tolerances among rails, but this is normal you are saying to have to keep adjusting?

    So if I understand correctly the rail needs t

  2. #12
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    When mounting anything in the military on a rail, especially an optic, we always get it on the rail and in the slot. Then lightly push it rearward until it contacts the back of the slot. Then tighten it down. The shift is common under recoil and even closing the bolt, but if it is pushed to the back of the slot, it will not have anywhere to shift to. This maintains an accurate zero. I would tighten it a little by following the process above and you will be good to go.

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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Topperdog View Post
    When mounting anything in the military on a rail, especially an optic, we always get it on the rail and in the slot. Then lightly push it rearward until it contacts the back of the slot. Then tighten it down. The shift is common under recoil and even closing the bolt, but if it is pushed to the back of the slot, it will not have anywhere to shift to. This maintains an accurate zero. I would tighten it a little by following the process above and you will be good to go.

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    By push to the rear do you mean the portion of the rail closest to the front sight or to the buffer tube? I have mine pushed to the front sight side of the slot when tightened. It appears to shift toward the buffer tube when cycling the bolt, but maybe when shooting a mag the amount of recoil force cancels out the bolt cycling.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fett85 View Post
    If I understand you I will have to let the rail crush until it "sets" with this particular sight and keep adjusting the screw to make it do so? So far it is adjustable with one hand but the next click from the detent will require a good amount of force. I know the adjustment screw is there for different tolerances among rails, but this is normal you are saying to have to keep adjusting?

    So if I understand correctly the rail needs t
    I've only had to readjust a couple of times before it remained in place. It shouldn't require tools but quite possibly two hands.

    FWIW, based on my experiences & what I've read here, optics should be pushed forward in the rail prior to tightening it down.


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    Quote Originally Posted by JSantoro View Post
    Stop dicking the dog, please. It's gross.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryno12 View Post
    I've only had to readjust a couple of times before it remained in place. It shouldn't require tools but quite possibly two hands.

    FWIW, based on my experiences & what I've read here, optics should be pushed forward in the rail prior to tightening it down.


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    This would be my first time adjusting it one click tighter after initial fitting when I got the sight. I also heard here and elsewhere that it needs to be pushed forward

  6. #16
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    Slow work day so I called Eotech. Paraphrasing ...... but the rep stated it should not be moving and as long as I do not need tools to put it on and remove it I am ok, but also mentioned on some rails if the finish is thicker the sight may need to compress that down for it to settle. Maybe BCM has thicker coatings on their uppers?

  7. #17
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    I have also come across the comment that the mount should be pushed forward before tigntning down. We could be talking a very slight movement here but--Any opines one way or the other as to why?

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by indawire View Post
    I have also come across the comment that the mount should be pushed forward before tigntning down. We could be talking a very slight movement here but--Any opines one way or the other as to why?
    In the simplest way I can explain it.....
    Recoil has a rearward and a forward impulse. You should push the mount toward the muzzle when installing to support it during the forward impulse. When mounting toward the charging handle, the mount MAY work itself forward during the forward impulse.
    "Perfect Practice Makes Perfect"
    "There are 550 million firearms on this planet. That's one firearm for every 12 people. The question is... How do we arm the other 11?" Lord of War.
    "I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them." Thomas Jefferson

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by indawire View Post
    I have also come across the comment that the mount should be pushed forward before tigntning down. We could be talking a very slight movement here but--Any opines one way or the other as to why?
    https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...-the-rail-slot


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    Quote Originally Posted by JSantoro View Post
    Stop dicking the dog, please. It's gross.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by indawire View Post
    I have also come across the comment that the mount should be pushed forward before tigntning down. We could be talking a very slight movement here but--Any opines one way or the other as to why?
    The mount seems to work it's way back as you fire the weapon, so I like to push the mount to the rear before tightening. That way when I zero an optic, nothing should change when I remove and reinstall the mount.
    Train 2 Win

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