How to: Removing a stuck brass case from a sizing die.

[ace4059]

Well, If you reload enough, its bound to happen. You will not properly lube a rifle case and it will become stuck in your sizing die. Its not if, but when. So here is a how to, on the best way to remove the stuck brass. This is fairly simple and only takes about 5 minutes.

Put the vise-grips and pliers up before you ruin the sizing die. You are not going to be able to pull the bass out of the die like that. Also put up the punch. The punch maybe faster, but its a good way to damage the threads inside the die.

Here is a list of tools that you will need. I suggest you purchase the tap, T-handled tap wrench, and bolt before you have a stuck case. The rest of the tools are common and you should have them on hand.

1. crescent wrench
2. needle nose pliers
3. Drill
4. #7 drill bit
5. 1/4 x 20 tpi tap tapered
6. T-handle tap wrench
7. primer pocket Swagger base that removes primer pocket crimp (3/4" socket will work if you do not have a swaggger base)
8.1/4"x20 TPI x 1" bolt (Allen or regular bolt head)
9. Allen wrench or socket to fit the 1" bolt
10. Oil for the tap



Swagger base



Okay, now onto the How To;

Stuck Case. Notice the rim is pulled through the shell holder.


Now remove the decapping pin.


I use pliers to loosen it and then pull it out of the case mouth.





Since the decapping pin is removed, use the crescent wrench and remove the sizing die from the press.



Now install the die upside down. You will need to tighten the die up so the die will not twist loose when you use the drill.


Drill the primer pocket with the 1/4 drill bit. Do NOT add oil/lube at this time because it can cause the case to spin inside the die, thus preventing you from drilling out the primer pocket.



Next add some oil between the case and die.


Now use the T-handle wrench and the 1/4" x 20 tpi and thread the inside of the case where you drilled out the primer pocket. Use a tapered Tap because it will be easier to start and use the 20 tpi not the 28 tpi since it is harder to strip out the threads on the 20 tpi when trying to remove the case. Use caution not to break off the tap inside the brass case. Go back and forth when using the tap by loosing and tightening the tap. This will help the tap cut the threads easier.




Once you have the case threaded, then place the swagger base on top of the case and run the bolt through the top and thread it into the brass case.




If you do not have a swagger base, Here's a pic of the socket . It works the same way.



Now just tighten the bolt where it pulls out the stuck case.




Be sure to clean out the brass chips from sizing die and properly lube all your bass cases from here on out. I know this is a long review with lots of pictures, but I want it to be through. Hopefully this will help someone out in the future.

[markm]

Well, If you reload enough, its bound to happen. You will not properly lube a rifle case and it will become stuck in your sizing die. Its not if, but when.

This isn't an attempt to brag, but rather an endorsement of good case lube.... In 20 plus years of loading, I've literally never had a stuck case. Running DCL (Dillon Case Lube) makes it nearly impossible.

I can literally run a bone dry rifle case in my sizing dies and not get it stuck because of the lube transfer.

[ace4059]

I have yet to have one stick in my progressive loader using Dillon Case lube.
It seems like the few I have stuck were all on a single stage press using RCBS case lube with a case pad.
Another thing I learned a few years ago was to never use powdered mica on a small base or full length sizing die. Keep the powdered lube for neck sizing only (for bolt actions). I learned that the hard way once when I ran out of the liquid lube.

[Whiskey&beer]

On my stuck case blunder that case was so fricken wedged tight in there that me nor my buddy could get the expander assembly out without twisting it to shit, so I just considered the die toast! Even if I got the case out there no way I would have used it again. I sized about 250 cases and realized one was left so I just pressed it thinking eh... It's ok and nope - it boofed me! I just chalk it up as a lesson learned and figured I'd post it so someone can get a laugh and not do my oops.

[jstone]

I have never stuck a case in 17 years, and using imperial I can usually run 3 cases without lube after I run one lubed case through the die. If using the imperial dry neck lube I always lube the neck.

[Whiskey&beer]

Oh Ace I forgot to say great tutorial on removing stuck cases! How I can get pretty frustrated and end up taking a sledgehammer to things, I'd probably just move on and get a replacement sizing die.

[batman4706]

I just remove the decapping assembly and use a punch to knock the case out.

[AR10TFn]

Ace4059 - great information, IIRC RCBS sells a kit similar to the items you are using. As for case lube, a friend of mine [a record holder in F-class uses hornady 1 shot exclusively -he tosses the cases in a vibratory cleaner to remove the lube after sizing] I have used Imperial wax for the past 3-4 years, after trying rcbs and pad, one shot -both pump and spray. My stuck case a 5.56 in a RCBS X-die was using spray one shot, but I had more problems with the pump, imop the pump is monkey pee with a bit of lanolin.

[Iraqgunz]

I was asked to pass this along by another member. I am not a reloader so I can't GUARANTEE the accuracy. Someone else will surely be able to.


The OP states that the drill size for a 1/4 X 20 tap is a 1/4" drill, which we know will swallow a 1/4 X 20 bolt.

The correct drill size for a 1/4 X 20 tap is a #7 drill, decimal equivalent is .2010

[luvmy40]

I've only ever had .223 cases stick. Probably because I load about 500x more .223 than anything else. This is why I swear by Lee dies. With Lee's full length resizing die all you do is loosen the collet holding the de capping pin and drive the de capping pin with a punch to remove the stuck case. The collet keeps the punch from contacting the threads and the whole process takes only a minute or two.