Beretta locking blocks

[Slater]

It's my understanding that the Beretta M9/92 series is on the third generation of locking block. Can anyone explain/illustrate the differences in the generations?

[ToddG]

I'll see if I can find a picture.

Essentially, the third gen blocks were substantially redesigned to alter the angle at which the force is applied to the gun. They also require the use of a different locking block plunger.

[HK45]

Check the latest issue of SWAT magazine for an excellent article on the Beretta including pictures of the old and new locking blocks. The new blocks are radiused to prevent cracking. According to the article the Army will not use the new locking blocks until stocks of the old ones are used up.

[Wayne Dobbs]

Todd,

Please try to find that photo and also if you could, discuss the specific differences between each Gen of locking block on the Beretta. I'm assuming that earlier guns can be retrofitted with the latest generation blocks?

Wayne

[ToddG]

WD -- Sorry, I've come up empty. There used to be a site out there hosting a write-up I did after attending armorer school back in '98 or '99, but I cannot find it.

The important thing is that the latest block has radiused wings and uses the newer plunger. To the best of my knowledge, that new block (with the new plunger) should work with any Beretta 92.

edited to add: You might try looking at Berettaforum.net, there are probably folks there who could explain the differences to you in so much detail your head will spin.

[SeaSoldier]

Page 65 of the July issue of SWAT magazine has a pic of the different locking blocks side by side.

[Charles]

You really need to install a new slide when you put the new locking block in guns that have been run hard and have had several LB's break...... Just FYI.

[ThirdWatcher]

BerettaForum.net has lots on info about Berettas, to include locking blocks.

[BUBBAGUNS]

Check the latest issue of SWAT magazine for an excellent article on the Beretta including pictures of the old and new locking blocks. The new blocks are radiused to prevent cracking. According to the article the Army will not use the new locking blocks until stocks of the old ones are used up.

If they break like our guns..., should take about a week.

[ToddG]

You really need to install a new slide when you put the new locking block in guns that have been run hard and have had several LB's break...... Just FYI.

Actually, you don't need to replace the slide you just need to fit the block to the slide, unless the slide was actually damaged when the block broke (which I've seen, but isn't the norm).

Put the barrel/block in the slide (no recoil assembly) and hold it up to the light. Look where the locking block and slide meet. You should see no light on either side. But if a previous block broke or the gun is just well used, you might see a little light on one side. Slowly and conservatively file metal off the opposite side shoulder (of the slide) until the block now mates evenly and flat on both sides.

What is happening is that over time, due to barrel torque caused by the rifling, the locking block isn't striking the slide evenly so it doesn't wear evenly. The original locking block wears in identically, so it's no problem until you break or otherwise replace the block. Then if you don't touch up the contact points, you're putting much more force on one wing of the block than the other, and it accelerates the wear on both the slide and block.