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Thread: Another IBZ thread: sight elevation click values

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjacobs View Post
    OK so with the IBZ, every other marking is meaningless? Then WHY even adjust/modify the wheel. Why not just bottom out the sight(wherever that ends up being), zero at 50 and call it done? Why is there an adjustment(modification?) done to the sight to make the 50 yard zero at 6/3 -4? I have to believe that it makes some of the other marks line up and actually mean something.

    Im not opposed to setting up the rear sight for RIBZ(-6 capable), but my ability to zero at 100 yards with irons sucks. Can I still zero at 50 yards using the 6/3 -4 setting?
    The RIBZ is much more versatile and accurate, no doubt about it. But the IBZ is beneficial for "set it and forget it" use. The reason you move to 6/3-4 is that the 0-2 sight actually changes the elevation of the rear sight, so if you have the rear peep set at 50/200, you will actually be off target if you swap to the 0-2 for faster target acquisition. By moving it to 6/3-4, when you switch to the 0-2 sight you can set the rear sight at 6/3 and still have a 50/200 zero.

    What's wrong with zeroing at 100 yards? Lack of available shooting range? Obviously the best distance to zero a sight at is the actual distance you plan on shooting, but to answer your question Molon has proven in his long RIBZ thread on ARFCOM that if you zero 6/3-4 at 50 yards it will be on target at 100 yards with 6/3-6, and at 300 yards at 6/3, etc.

    I have a thread on here where I used the RIBZ on a midlength. I zero'd at 100 yards 6/3-6 and moved it to the 4 and was making hits without any other adjustment using M855 at 400 yards. This was just a few months ago.

    The issue with a 50 yard zero isn't the sights being off, it's the shooter being off. A small zeroing error at 50 yards will translate to missing the paper completely at 500+
    Why do the loudest do the least?

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eurodriver View Post
    What's wrong with zeroing at 100 yards? Lack of available shooting range?
    I cant see shit at 100 yards to keep the POA consistent. Its hard to zero when your POA doesnt stay consistent. Its me. I suck at 100 yards with iron sights. Can I make hits, sure, are they precise, nope. At 50 yards I can at least maintain a consistent POA so that I am not chasing my tail when trying to zero iron sights.

  3. #13
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    Aren't you a pilot?
    Why do the loudest do the least?

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eurodriver View Post
    Aren't you a pilot?
    yup!

    Thats why they make runways 2+ miles long, so that those of us with piss poor eye sight can find the damn things and put a large airplane on them!

    But really, for me, its the fact that I am a little anal with zeroing and with a fat front sight post(12 MOA) that covers a target at 100 yards, its pretty hard to be "precise" with a .224 diameter bullet. At least at 50 yards I get a fighting chance at holding on the bull. At 100 yards I am good at holding on the target, forget about being on the bull. At least at 50 yards the front sight post is only covering 6" of the target.

    I got a buddy who isnt quite as anal as I am. I went with him to the range one day when he was zeroing his new deer rifle. He got 5 rounds on the target at 100 in about a 6-7 MOA "pattern" with a 3-9x scope and said "eh, thats good enough for deer huntinnnn" and packed his shit up. I couldnt settle for something like that, but I also wouldnt settle for a $299 rifle/scope combo from Walmart.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eurodriver View Post
    The issue with a 50 yard zero isn't the sights being off, it's the shooter being off. A small zeroing error at 50 yards will translate to missing the paper completely at 500+
    That's why I always go to 200 and confirm, make adjustments, and then reconfirm at 50.

    I'm a pilot too but I usually land on little dirt strips about 15-1600' long and a little wider than the main gear.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjacobs View Post
    OK so with the IBZ, every other marking is meaningless? Then WHY even adjust/modify the wheel. Why not just bottom out the sight(wherever that ends up being), zero at 50 and call it done? Why is there an adjustment(modification?) done to the sight to make the 50 yard zero at 6/3 -4? I have to believe that it makes some of the other marks line up and actually mean something.



    Im not opposed to setting up the rear sight for RIBZ(-6 capable), but my ability to zero at 100 yards with irons sucks. Can I still zero at 50 yards using the 6/3 -4 setting?



    The reason I am liking the IBZ more than the RIBZ is because I am very use to the ballistics of a 50 yard zero out to 300 yards. Those numbers are in my head. My carry handle is made by who the hell knows who, but its a Palmetto State. Seems to be well built. Its a 6/3 with 4 clicks in between numbers.

    So what you are saying is 6/3 -4 and 50 yard zero for small aperture and if I flip to the large aperture go to the 6/3 marks and it will be zero'd there? Does that mean the rest of the marks on the dial are worthless? Im ok with this if it is in fact true(this is what I am trying to ascertain through this thread), I cant see myself shooting more than 200-300 yards with this gun, ever and since I understand with the 50 yard zero I am basically +-1-2" out to 300 yards im comfortable taking shots knowing that at any distance inside there, I will most likely make a hit.
    Sorry, I'm on the road and didn't get to check until now.

    As others have said, the markings are not meaningless. The only thing that IBZ and RIBZ does is provide more travel for the rear sight drum. To make this work, you also have to adjust your front sight quite a bit more than most people typically do. If you give it the 6/3 minus 4 and zero at 50 with a set and forget, that's fine. That leaves you with a good 50 yard zero while leaving the 6/3, 4, and 5 marks all intact and usable. If you give the rear sight the extra two clicks of adjustment to get a 100 yard zero, then you can still use the minus 4 setting for 50, or use the 6/3, 4, and 5.

    IBZ/RIBZ came around because people were using the 6/3 setting (or really any other setting) to get a "set and forget" 50/200. This was fine for most practical applications, but made the rest of the markings on the rear drum useless. By giving it the extra travel distance for a 50 or 100 yard zero, you keep your markings in tact and usable for all the other ranges.

    I run a BCM carry handle on a BCM 20" government upper. To play with the concept, I zeroed at 50 yards and then used RIBZ to move back and forth from 100 to 25 yards. Adjusting the drum to the correct distance resulted in "good enough" accuracy (more error on my part than the rifle, but still hitting the black of the target)
    "Man is still the first weapon of war" - Field Marshal Montgomery

    The Everyday Marksman

  7. #17
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    Thanks Brigandtwofour. I think I will stick with the regular IBZ and not the RIBZ.

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