
Originally Posted by
rjacobs
OK so with the IBZ, every other marking is meaningless? Then WHY even adjust/modify the wheel. Why not just bottom out the sight(wherever that ends up being), zero at 50 and call it done? Why is there an adjustment(modification?) done to the sight to make the 50 yard zero at 6/3 -4? I have to believe that it makes some of the other marks line up and actually mean something.
Im not opposed to setting up the rear sight for RIBZ(-6 capable), but my ability to zero at 100 yards with irons sucks. Can I still zero at 50 yards using the 6/3 -4 setting?
The RIBZ is much more versatile and accurate, no doubt about it. But the IBZ is beneficial for "set it and forget it" use. The reason you move to 6/3-4 is that the 0-2 sight actually changes the elevation of the rear sight, so if you have the rear peep set at 50/200, you will actually be off target if you swap to the 0-2 for faster target acquisition. By moving it to 6/3-4, when you switch to the 0-2 sight you can set the rear sight at 6/3 and still have a 50/200 zero.
What's wrong with zeroing at 100 yards? Lack of available shooting range? Obviously the best distance to zero a sight at is the actual distance you plan on shooting, but to answer your question Molon has proven in his long RIBZ thread on ARFCOM that if you zero 6/3-4 at 50 yards it will be on target at 100 yards with 6/3-6, and at 300 yards at 6/3, etc.
I have a thread on here where I used the RIBZ on a midlength. I zero'd at 100 yards 6/3-6 and moved it to the 4 and was making hits without any other adjustment using M855 at 400 yards. This was just a few months ago.
The issue with a 50 yard zero isn't the sights being off, it's the shooter being off. A small zeroing error at 50 yards will translate to missing the paper completely at 500+
Why do the loudest do the least?
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