When do I need built-in moa for an optic mount? It is doubtful that I will have many opportunities to shoot past 400 yards. As such, should I get a mount that has this built in or just a standard mount? I am looking at ADM mounts for my SCAR.
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When do I need built-in moa for an optic mount? It is doubtful that I will have many opportunities to shoot past 400 yards. As such, should I get a mount that has this built in or just a standard mount? I am looking at ADM mounts for my SCAR.
You left out the most important piece of information. What scope?
It really depends on the optic, the distance you'll be shooting and where you have it zero'd. "Very generally speaking" >800 yards is a decent rule of thumb, I think, but again, if you have an optic with very limited range of adjustment it may be lower.
With all of that said, I can't imagine there are many scopes that couldn't get you to 400 yards without a 20 MOA mount. It certainly isn't going to hurt anything to just go with the 20 MOA mount, even if you're unlikely to need one.
Last edited by HKGuns; 01-03-15 at 13:52.
The built in cant allows you to use more of the adjustment range of the scope. Say you have a 0moa scope mount and the crosshairs are exactly in the middle of the scope when zero'd. You are losing the upper half of the adjustment range of the scope. With a 10/20/30moa scope mount, the crosshairs are in the upper portion of the adjustment range and you can make use of most of the adjustment that is built into the scope.
Make sense?
Vortex viper 2.5-10. It sounds like getting a 20 moa mount makes the most sense. The information you've given me has been very helpful. I truly appreciate it.
Do you have a scope mount currently? If so, I would zero it first, then turn the vertical adjustment knob to see how much adjustment you are giving up. But, you can't really go wrong with a 20moa mount with that scope. It's got plenty of adjustment if you move it to different rifles.
Last edited by Onyx Z; 01-03-15 at 13:35.
Modern reticles make this a redundant feature, unless you are really into spinning turrets.
Jack, I guess what you're saying is that you use holdovers, as compared to making adjustments, correct?
Correct sir.
Back in the old days we'd spin up the first best range estimation and hold for wind, making minor adjustments to hold after the first shot.
Now, the H27D, H58, and H59 give you pretty much everything you need as long as your optic doesn't suck outside of center. Of course, you can still dial elevation, and that's probably more accurate, but holds in a properly leveled optic that is good to the edge is going to be faster, and you never have to worry about dialing wrong and screwing yourself without being able to check before the shot.
Great info as usual. Thank you.
If you're unsure, just get 20MOA and you're all set
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