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Thread: BCM gas block removal/ADCO

  1. #51
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    From first application to removal was maybe 30 minutes.

    Put the UnCure on. Waited 15 minutes. Put the soldering iron on it and unscrewed them 15 later.

    No idea if soldering iron helped or did absolutely nothing. It was sitting there so I just laid it on there.




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  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by punkey71 View Post
    From first application to removal was maybe 30 minutes.

    Put the UnCure on. Waited 15 minutes. Put the soldering iron on it and unscrewed them 15 later.

    No idea if soldering iron helped or did absolutely nothing. It was sitting there so I just laid it on there.




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    The heat helps the uncure wick faster. It helps.

    Glad we could help.
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  3. #53
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    This thread is outstanding, it should be a sticky. I never did like using a torch, especially after I once watched a "gunsmith" successively heat a flash hider until it smoked and glowed thinking it was secured with loctite after several unsuccessful attempts to break it loose. Found out it was Rocksett the hard way!

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by BufordTJustice View Post
    The heat helps the uncure wick faster. It helps.

    Glad we could help.
    Indeed.

    Now that I think about it, my barrel was wet with UnCure where the gas block was. It did seem that the UnCure migrated all around the block/barrel interface.

    Thanks again.

    Harold


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  5. #55
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    Two things about this thread ...

    First for those that asked ... I sent two uppers to ADCO recently to have rails swapped out. The first was a Noveske N4 with a factory pinned Switchblock and SWS rail. While I was not necessarily concerned with driving the gas block pin out without buggering up the Switchblock (I have heard horror stories that IG alluded to), the reality was I did not have the correct SWS barrel nut wrench and it was out of stock at SWS, so I paid ADCO a slight premium to do the NSR swap. Since I was paying the freight to ship the N4 upper, I included a BCM upper along with it. I had no issues with the work that ADCO performed. It was done professionally and fairly quickly. Both of the uppers were in excellent shape going out, and came back the same way. You would not have known the work was done outside of either brand's factory. I believe ADCO also used the same red Loctite BCM uses upon reassembly.

    Second, thank you IG, BTJ and others for the helpful hints on the matter. It will help with projects in the future.

  6. #56
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    The uncure worked perfectly on one of the set screws. That one came out without the application of heat, using only moderate force. The other is still being a pain in my ass. I went and bought a 30 watt soldering iron and new hex wrenches and am going to apply some more uncure, let it sit then apply about 15 mins of heat to the set screw and try to back it out. If this doesn't work, I may just drill this one out. My patience is running thin.

  7. #57
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    I only use bit drivers. Apply more Uncure and let it soak in.

    Quote Originally Posted by bjw182005 View Post
    The uncure worked perfectly on one of the set screws. That one came out without the application of heat, using only moderate force. The other is still being a pain in my ass. I went and bought a 30 watt soldering iron and new hex wrenches and am going to apply some more uncure, let it sit then apply about 15 mins of heat to the set screw and try to back it out. If this doesn't work, I may just drill this one out. My patience is running thin.



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  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    I only use bit drivers. Apply more Uncure and let it soak in.
    This with an impact driver works well

  9. #59
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    What Loctite does BCM use for securing the set screws?

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    I am very familiar with how that block was installed. I also know what Loctite they use. Uncure breaks down cyanoacrylate which is the active ingredient in Loctite. I have used this stuff for about the last 6 months and it has yet to not work for me. YMMV
    Thanks for the rec. I'm in the same boat and want to order the BCM but am dreading the removal to swap for a LPGB.

    Anybody have a recommendation for an adjustable railed block?
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