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Thread: Update 2/8 - Help. Torque Specs for Precision bolt gun build, ammo questions, etc

  1. #21
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    Will he part with just the barrel action-If you can swing it
    http://www.xlrindustries.com/Element-chassis.html

    Or just get the new one, keep as is or sell of stock and mag to fund the Element. I think you will really like the Tikka, I'm impressed with mine.

    GET IN YOUR BUBBLE!

  2. #22
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    Could I just grab an Element Chassis and put my R700 in it?

    Did you bed yours?
    Why do the loudest do the least?

  3. #23
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    You shouldn't need to bed an Element chassis. It should be bolt-n-go.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eurodriver View Post
    Could I just grab an Element Chassis and put my R700 in it?
    Sure can.
    Work so hard that one day your signature will be called an autograph.

  5. #25
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    I really don't think the root cause of those groups is the stock. It has to be something with the crown/muzzle device or if you haven't ruled out the scope. If you can before you sink money into it, switch scopes to rule out that, pop off the muzzle device also.
    GET IN YOUR BUBBLE!

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheBelly View Post
    You shouldn't need to bed an Element chassis. It should be bolt-n-go.
    Correct not needed or advised. If there was any mating problem, I would suspect the receiver.
    GET IN YOUR BUBBLE!

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark5pt56 View Post
    I really don't think the root cause of those groups is the stock. It has to be something with the crown/muzzle device or if you haven't ruled out the scope. If you can before you sink money into it, switch scopes to rule out that, pop off the muzzle device also.
    I've removed the muzzle device, and I've sent the scope back to vortex. The windage adjustment was extremely stiff, gritty, and hard to turn. I'm not sure if that was causing the grouping issues or not, but I wanted them to fix it before I had the rifle zeroed in.

    I want a new stock anyway, and I should have that and a trigger by the time the scope comes back. If the grouping issues are still present (with a new stock, trigger, "repaired" scope, and no muzzle device) I'm not sure what will be left at that point.
    Last edited by Eurodriver; 02-11-15 at 15:44.
    Why do the loudest do the least?

  8. #28
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    On the action screws torque, to get optimum precision you may need to torque to different in/lb to find the sweet spot for accuracy with your stock/action combination.

  9. #29
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    Understood, but torqueing to Remington spec shouldn't result in a Rem700 shooting 3 MOA with 3 different types of match ammo.

    I am really getting annoyed at this entire thing. If the muzzle device is the issue, then the entire reason I bought the rifle (to shoot suppressed with short OAL) is pointless. If the muzzle device is not the issue, then there is a problem with the barrel.

    I bought an HS Precision M24 stock and a Timney trigger today, and with bedding by my smith I will be over $3000 deep in this. Would've bought me a nice 18" SS BCM w/ the works and still had ammo leftover. And I know it would have shot well.
    Why do the loudest do the least?

  10. #30
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    Referencing the torqueing, I'm going through something similar with a McMillan A3 stock on my Rem 700 SPS AAC 20". McMillan, Remington and Precision Rifle builders on Snipers Hide give a range of torque settings from 35 - 65 in/lbs. Also discuss which screws get tightened first and how much and ensuring the stock is vertical so the barrel mates with the stock completely. It shouldn't be this hard - but it is. Good luck with yours.

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