Calculating Holdovers with this Reticle

[FourT6and2]

Thanks for the info!

[Krampus]

~~Cheat Sheet ~~ Better to have it and not need it.....................

.5....200/225
1.....250/275
1.5..300/325
2.....350/375
2.5.....400
3.....425/450
3.5.....475
4........500

### Exact
/ Exact Split
### .1 Adjustment
### .2 Adjustment


Krampus

[Failure2Stop]

Trying to use a Mil reticle like a BDC reticle is going to be frustrating.
If you want a "put the target here" reticle, a purpose-built BDC is going to serve you better.
The utility of a mil reticle is in precision and rapid ranging.

The above reticle is going to be ok out to about 300 meters using holds, but will rapidly diminish past that, requiring the user to either dial elevation and hold wind, or spend a lot more time guesstimating and celebrating luck than gaining real data (and data is the core need for successful, repeatable long range shooting).

Here are reticles that work out at 600-1,000m:
H27D

*Not the best representation, there is a very clear cross-hair in the center of the circle

H59


Notice that the main difference with these from the above is that they have lateral indicators. These are really important. So important, that the H58 (the previous champ in long-range "tactical" shooting) was changed in only 2 ways to make the H59; the primary intersection was changed to a floating dot, and an additional mil was added to the horizontal "christmas-tree" stadia. Why? The ever-present variable of the precision tactical shooter: Wind.
It is really important to have a consistent aiming reference, and that extra mil of reference makes shooting in the already demanding conditions of a 25 mph cross-wind significantly less miserable, even at moderate distances.
Only under the most calm of conditions will a reticle without distinct wind holds be useful past 300 meters or so. And let me be perfectly clear: that's just fine for most users, that will rarely if ever actually shoot at 300 meters. They just learn that a 100 meter zero will put you about 1 mil low at 250, 1.5 mils at 300, and just a few inches low from 150 to just under 250 which is just a simple center reticle hold-over. Your reticle will do that very, very well.

As I said before, once you get past 350 or so, environmental factors will override the utility of the simple reticle. A 10 mph wind from left to right will push you about 1.5 mils right at 450. Yes, you can estimate about where you need to hold, but you will be hard pressed to make repeatable fine changes to that hold. The importance of this is data tracking so that you can take those numbers, log them, and re-use them for greater accuracy. It's hard to learn if you don't know what you did right, what you did wrong, and how to replicate success while avoiding failure.

Good contemporary BDC reticles take this into account:


Why would anyone bother with a mil reticle if a BDC reticle answers the mail?
Frankly, most people will be happier with a BDC than with a mil reticle.
Going to a mil reticle like the H27D, or H59 above will enable enhanced precision at distance in practical conditions using holds, but it requires an investment in hardware, software, and time.

[FourT6and2]

that's just fine for most users, that will rarely if ever actually shoot at 300 meters. They just learn that a 100 meter zero will put you about 1 mil low at 250, 1.5 mils at 300, and just a few inches low from 150 to just under 250 which is just a simple center reticle hold-over. Your reticle will do that very, very well.

Thanks for the info, very helpful. The above quote applies to me. I guess application is important here. I'm not a soldier or a hunter. So I'm not shooting at unknown distances "in the moment." The shooting ranges available to me in my area only go out to 200 yards. And this scope/reticle I have is more like a glorified 6x RDS. The turrets are capped and not really intended to be used for dialing in elevation/windage on the fly. They are more of a "set and forget" type of thing.

I was simply curious as to what some holds would be, so I can get a better understanding of the MIL system's relationship with distance and POI. The app that was suggested is pretty helpful and helps me understand the MIL system a little better as I'm a visual thinker.

I just shoot for fun as a hobby. 99% of my shooting happens at 100 yards, as that is what is available to me. In the future if I am shooting at longer distances and not on a puprose-built shooting range with clearly delineated target distances, I'll probably invest in a different scope with a reticle better suited for that application.

I'm envious of those of you who have access to shooting spots out in the open on public land or wherever it is y'all shoot where you have more options. Unfortunately, in San Francisco my options are very limited.

[Krampus]

Uhhhhhh......

This isn't an LRT scope it's a close/Mid/3gun 1-6x with a fabulous 1x and it will be fine out to 500 yards. You have to dial high/full wind for LR, that sucks. The reticle isn't clogged up for tight stuff, that doesn't suck. You are not married to the BDC ballistics/environment, that doesn't suck.

OP, enjoy your $2500 scope but keep in mind that if you want to devastate a prairie dog colony in the shortest amount of time you will be better served by a different scope.

Krampus

[FourT6and2]

Uhhhhhh......

This isn't an LRT scope it's a close/Mid/3gun 1-6x with a fabulous 1x and it will be fine out to 500 yards. You have to dial high/full wind for LR, that sucks. The reticle isn't clogged up for tight stuff, that doesn't suck. You are not married to the BDC ballistics/environment, that doesn't suck.

I can't tell if you're talking to me or not with this. But I understand all that already... Are you responding to my last post or to Failure2Stop's?

OP, enjoy your $2500 scope but keep in mind that if you want to devastate a prairie dog colony in the shortest amount of time you will be better served by a different scope.

Huh? Not sure what gave you the impression I want to do anything remotely close to that.

[Krampus]

Apologies, OP dismiss that previous post. Of course you would look into a different optic. You would choose a sensible optic for your purpose.

Krampus

[FourT6and2]

Apologies that post was not directed to the OP.

Krampus

Ah ok, I was confused for a sec. haha

[Ash Hess]

Re-read what F2S tried to say.

What he was talking about is very important. Wind can have effects even at 100. The ACOG reticle is a BDC type, but still failed to be useable in windy environments. Even with Strelok. BTDT.

[HD1911]

BDC's are garbage. Go with a Scope in either MOA/MOA or MIL/MIL where your Turret Adjustments match your Reticle (your preference may vary, I prefer the Milliradian), and that you can Dial and/or Hold (under/over/windage) with.

FYI Horus (and horus type) reticles are great if you don't want to touch your turrets and just use the Reticle for everything. This may be an issue for some as a Horus reticle will normally be in the FFP, which in some cases if not most, can be completely worthless in the Lower Power Mag. Ranges. (1-6x), unless accopanied by a Red Dot. ie - Mk 6 1-6x CMR