223/556 reloading questions....

[ubet]

I did try the search function and have been reading what I can. I have reloaded 1000s of 45acp and a pile of 308win and 300wsm before, but am going to be reloading for my 6920. I have a single stage and am eventually going to buy a dillon or hornady ap so when I buy the dies I want to make sure that they will perform well with a progressive. I am of the mind buy once cry once, with that being said what dies would you guys recommend? I am not looking to make match grade ammo, just want good practice ammo. Will I be better off loading 62gr+ bulllets or stay with the 55s? About how many reloads can I get out of a 223 case and what powder do yall recommend? I guess for that matter what bullet too?
I am sure these have been asked before, but I appreciate any responses you folks can give.

Thanks

[markm]

Well I like the Dillon Carbide sizer since it runs a little smoother than a regular steel die. That's the most expensive piece of the puzzle. Bullet seating and crimp dies aren't too expensive. A micro adjustable seater is nice if you switch bullet types/shapes. Redding and Forster make those.

Crimp is preference. I like the Lee Factory crimp die.

[NWcityguy2]

I've always used Lee dies and have never had a problem making MOA or close to MOA ammo, which is plenty for a general use AR. However I've never gone to a progressive for 223 because I like to wash off the case lube after resizing.

I stick to 55 grain for almost all of my ammo. Contrary to popular belief a 1:7 barrel can shoot quality 55gr bullets very well. Hornady 55gr FMJ and SP w/ Cannelure are about the cheapest bullets you can buy and they are very high quality compared to other bulk bullets. I have been buying the 55gr SP w/ Cannelure bullets that have been rebranded by Midsouth for $160 for 2000. Those will shoot 1.5 moa in both of my ARs with chrome line barrels. They do however take a little more time to reload as they don't sit in the case mouth like a boat tail bullet. For OTM bullets
I'll try the Hornady first because they are the cheapest of the major manufactures, around $16-17 per 100, then if my gun doesn't like them I'll go to Nosler.

For powder just about any appropriate ball powder will work if you are going to pair it with a cheap bullet. They are the first to go in a panic though and usually the last to come back. I've shot a ton of Accurate and IMR 4064 because of this and it has always been great, even with 55gr bullets. It doesn't meter well but I don't use a dispenser either. Velocity is comparable to other popular powders at max charge.

I mostly shoot local 3-gun competitions and so I'm happy with slightly above average ammo for about 18 cents a shot. I don't shoot from a stable enough position or with a high enough powered optic to take advantage of anything better so I generally don't spend money trying to make it.

I also don't add any crimp to my bullets because I have enough neck tension not to need it.

[themonk]

My 223 dies are hornady = no issues and don't think you would have any issues with any of the big names.

[ubet]

Thanks for the responses. Why does 223 need to be crimped?

I will look into the Hornady 55gr bullets for plinking and practice. For coyotes and anything else though, what would you guys recommend 77gr bthps, or something else and what brand? It is a 1:7 twist. I see the noslers and sierras run fairly close to the same price. Out of my bolt rifles I only have experience with the berger vlds and smk. I couldnt seem to get what I wanted out of the amax bullets, how are they in ars?

[ubet]

Mark, would you recommend getting a full carbide die set, or just the sizer die?

[NWcityguy2]

Why does 223 need to be crimped?

It depends on the sizing die. Some will provide enough neck tension while others will not.

For coyotes and anything else though, what would you guys recommend 77gr bthps, or something else and what brand?

I rarely hunt, but for coyotes lots of stuff will work. Soft points/Polymer tip bullet will open up faster and work at lower velocities, but lots of bullets will make them equally dead.

I couldnt seem to get what I wanted out of the amax bullets, how are they in ars?

Only the 52gr AMAX will seat to magazine length, everything else is single feed only.

[Onyx Z]

Thanks for the responses. Why does 223 need to be crimped?

I will look into the Hornady 55gr bullets for plinking and practice. For coyotes and anything else though, what would you guys recommend 77gr bthps, or something else and what brand? It is a 1:7 twist. I see the noslers and sierras run fairly close to the same price. Out of my bolt rifles I only have experience with the berger vlds and smk. I couldnt seem to get what I wanted out of the amax bullets, how are they in ars?

223 doesn't need to be crimped. I've never had a problem with setback in my loads, but it does give peace of mind. Also, on certain loads, it helps with accuracy.

For coyotes, the Hornady 53gr V-Max is what I'd recommend. they have a very high BC for the weight and will shoot pretty flat at distance.

[markm]

Thanks for the responses. Why does 223 need to be crimped?

Doesn't need to be. You just need to have "good" neck tension. It happens that on my set up, my group sizes really open up without the crimp. But others have success without crimping. It just depends.

Mark, would you recommend getting a full carbide die set, or just the sizer die?

Well the full die set is fine. But the sizer is where the carbide shines.

[nova3930]

My Lees make good blasting ammo, even if I have gotten to the point I despise loading rifle ammo for a semi-auto.

I decap and resize on my single stage, remove the lube and then hand prime, and run through the 3 stage "Lee Pro 1000" that my wife's uncle gave me to charge, seat and crimp withe aforementioned factory crimp die. Works great with cheap Winchest 55gr FMJs and Varget...