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Thread: Performance tires - do you bother?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eurodriver View Post
    I have ridden on high performance tires in the eurocars since I've owned them.

    168+ MPH speed ratings AAA traction. The amount of handling is phenomenal. I've ridden at triple digit speeds in Florida thunderstorms without issue (not smart for many reasons, but stating a fact). I regularly handled curves in my 4 door sedan that most American "sports cars" would struggle with.

    But it came at a cost. The ride was rough. After about 10,000 miles they would need to be rebalanced and at 25k they were usually toast. At $300+ a piece and uneven wear times (rears went way faster) this meant that I was replacing at least one axle a year which by itself isn't bad, but after 10 years of eurodriving I shutter to think how much I've spent on rubber.

    Anyway, yesterday I threw on some OEM continental contiprocontact tires. Less expensive and 60,000 mile tread life. They were cheaper, and they are very quiet but the performance is killing me. I never realized how much tires affected your handling. I feel like I'm riding on a cloud and have no feel for the road.

    Does anyone else care about tires as much as I do? Do you have any suggestions? Do you care?
    My advice - stick with OEM tires. Otherwise, you might try different brands of the same size/speed rating and see how they do. Tire Rack allows you to read reviews on different tires by vehicle type.

    25K for a set of performance tires isn't bad. I never made it that far with the Bridgestones on either of my S2000's - fronts were close, though.
    Last edited by Spurholder; 06-01-15 at 12:51.
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny00 View Post
    Yup, the downside to "Summer" tires vs performance all-seasons is cost. Conti DWS, Bridgestone 960/970, or Michelin Pilot Sport A/S all last much longer and from a cost to performance standpoint, are a winner to me. I got tired of replacing tires every 20K-ish. It was pricey, especially when you're talking about 285/295 and 30/35/40 series tires. I can feel the difference, but I don't think I drive nearly hard enough to see a value added increase of perf all-seasons versus summer tires. Yes, summer tires are nice and stick to the ground no other, but for a daily driver, I couldn't justify the cost. For what it's worth, I was always scouring Craigslist to pick up a set of summer tires for the next changeover. I was stacking tires in the garage...haha.
    Agreed. On my first sport sedan, I ran the seasonal sport tires in summer and blizzak in winter. Then I moved out of the snow belt and moved to all season performance tires. Now I just don't go all out. Use higher end all season touring/performance tires speed rated for my car (newer sport sedan), get good long life and it suits all I need.

    I don't drive it like hell. I push it a bit, at times, but mostly just enjoy the jump off the dead stop or that extra giddy-up when I need to pass someone on the highway.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny00 View Post
    Yup, the downside to "Summer" tires vs performance all-seasons is cost. Conti DWS, Bridgestone 960/970, or Michelin Pilot Sport A/S all last much longer and from a cost to performance standpoint, are a winner to me. I got tired of replacing tires every 20K-ish. It was pricey, especially when you're talking about 285/295 and 30/35/40 series tires. I can feel the difference, but I don't think I drive nearly hard enough to see a value added increase of perf all-seasons versus summer tires. Yes, summer tires are nice and stick to the ground no other, but for a daily driver, I couldn't justify the cost. For what it's worth, I was always scouring Craigslist to pick up a set of summer tires for the next changeover. I was stacking tires in the garage...haha.
    The whole reason I have this car is performance and tires are a huge component of that performance. I don't track the car, but I do enjoy "spirited" driving in it and there are a lot of areas around here where that can be accomplished. I'm not willing to compromise the very reason for owning the car in the first place. If I have to compromise on tires because of the expense, then I shouldn't have bought that car in the first place. Performance car needs performance tires. No compromises.

  4. #14
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    On our Volvos and Saabs we run two tires and nothing else.

    The Bridestone Potenza RE950 or the Michelin MXV4 Super Sport.

    The other tires just don' last as long or they cup out early or need re-balancing quite often. Totally not worth it. The wife can get about 65-70k miles out of a set of Michelin Super Sports on the 9-5 Aero. Not bad but she babies the car and does not drive it like it was intended to be driven. LOL

    Our Volvo S-40 (daughter's ride) wears Bridgestone RE-950s and they ride TONS better than the crap Good Years that came on the car.

    On my 4WD pickups I only run BFG All Terrain T/A KO's and swear by them.

    Cheap tires are totally NOT worth it...especially when you drive a lot and drive in lots of rain and bad weather.

  5. #15
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    "Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. It has to be fought for and defended by each generation."
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  6. #16
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    I've found tire rack.com reviews are pretty good. I paid less for tires than oem that blew them out of the water. By that, I mean I could double speed without hydroplaning and take turns 10mi/hr faster without squeeking while getting comparable milage. They also offer much better road feel and responsiveness. Better tires would be limited by the car, an acura.

    I found 120 (100 on tire rack) range to be a price you can start to get decent tires for. I don't race and anything much better would not provide anything for my situation as I've had close calls and the tires performed 100%.
    Last edited by MegademiC; 06-01-15 at 13:45.

  7. #17
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    File me under those who don't consider driving at more than 8/10ths on the road as making a whole lot of sense, consequently tires that last are worth a lot more to me than tires that have a big performance delta, unless the intent of that vehicle is autocross, track days, or to keep obscene powertrain performance of the vehicle they're mounted to from becoming useless/inaccessible.

    For my part everything I drive right now is laughably slow - the biggest tire performance ugprade for me would be stepping up to BFG AllTerrain T/A KOs on my truck, but to be completely honest the cheapo bridgestone tires on it right now are likely to outlast the transmission on it. Living in the desert southwest, the only time I've found the tire performance lacking is either the odd snowstorm (where I'm still far and away more confident than all the drivers around me just because I understand where that grip threshold is) or off road where the lack of mechanical braking/accelerating traction or lateral load capability gives up in a hurry.

    Realize that you're attuned to having actual communication and feedback with what the road under you is doing - adding a larger undamped air spring in the form of less performance oriented tires is going to make it feel bouncy/floaty, but that's something that can be adapted to. Turn-in is going to be slightly sluggish by comparison, but it's entirely possible to learn how to adjust and start the weight transfer a bit sooner, and drive around a bit less adjustability mid-corner.

    Once I can move somewhere with a garage I'm putting up an epic reloading bench, and building a corvette kart - I'm increasingly thinking I'll have to run two sets of wheels/tires for that.
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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eurodriver View Post
    Do you guys have any recommended tires?

    My rears are 245/40R17 fronts are like 240/45 I think. and need to be rated to at least 150mph.

    I live in FL so while there is no snow, there is a strong Need For wet performance (rains every day, hard)

    With that said, I just cannot believe the loss in performance from these OEM tires. It's almost dangerous. Massive amounts of under steer and the car just feels bouncy. It's so insane how much of a difference tires can make.
    My old car (similar Euro performance car) had 225/40ZR18 all around witht the OEMs as Continentals. I never got great wear from the Contis (18K on one set, 13K on the second) and they rode a little harsh and loud, so I swapped to Michelins. The ride quality improved without any performance losses, and they were still going strong with 36K on them when I sold the car. Michelins, Pirellis, or Bridgestones are pretty good. I have some big Bridgestones on my wife's car (the original were also Contis) that have been very good, quiet, and still have decent performance on a very heavy SUV. SUV versus sports car/sports sedan is apples and oranges, but it seems that Continental makes a tire that is cheap for the manufacturer to put on and checks the boxes for engineering performance and US DOT approvals, but others make better tires for US roads. As an OE tire, the manufacturer's finance department is making the choice (A family friend works at MB in German and the OE Contis cost MB around $18 a tire - nice volume pricing) - since its on your dime now, there are much better choices out there from other manufacturers.

  9. #19
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    I have a 1991 Mustang GT Convertible that gets driven only in the summer. When I replaced the last set of tires on it, I went with the Hankook Ventus in 225/55/16.
    They are quiet tires, I don't really drive the car enough to talk about wear, subjectively, they do handle better than the Firestones which were on the Mustang when I bought it - they were half worn out.

    I work at an old Naval Air Station and have access to the main runway as well as the turns off the end, so that is where I see top end, in terms of handling I have access to the road course on our driving facility, I don't throw the GT around very hard, but the performance in sweeping and late apex corners definitely improved - obviously much better then the CV's and Chargers that I'm used to driving around the course - and that is with the non-rigid convertible body. Of course one would expect better performance from new tires versus old, huh?

    They don't make a lot of noise, and to be honest I'm not going to put that vehicle into a situation where I can eval the noise from them in understeer or oversteer - at 8/10th's they work well.

    I don't drive the Mustang in the rain so that is something I can't comment on. IIRC I think I was out 900.00 mounted and balanced.

    You know I just re-thought what you asked - 'why bother?'

    I buy the good tires for the 92 Escort with 214,000ish miles on it, primarily because I drive it hard. The thing is 'hard' for a 92 Escort with a strut package on it, isn't the same as hard for a Boxster. I do a lot of threshold braking, I turn, when traffic allows, using proper apexing, I enjoy running up on people on off ramps, etc. because I know how to place the car. To me, 8/10ths in that Escort, stirring the shifter, is just as fun and a lot safer than 8/10ths in a performance vehicle.

    YMMV, but I haven't done triple digits on a public road since I crawled out of a patrol unit and quit making emergency responses.
    Last edited by 26 Inf; 06-01-15 at 14:44.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eurodriver View Post
    Do you guys have any recommended tires?

    My rears are 245/40R17 fronts are like 240/45 I think. and need to be rated to at least 150mph.

    I live in FL so while there is no snow, there is a strong Need For wet performance (rains every day, hard)

    With that said, I just cannot believe the loss in performance from these OEM tires. It's almost dangerous. Massive amounts of under steer and the car just feels bouncy. It's so insane how much of a difference tires can make.
    Tires is what I do for a living now.
    With that said, your car will eat tires. I didn't read the whole thread but I'm assuming is a BMW.
    I currently run Conti DWS on my Car and BFG KO2s on my JKU.
    What you should get in my opinion is the Mich Pilot sport A/S3. It is an all season tire but it'll probably give you a bit more life that some of the others without converting your car to a Mini van. The reason your tires are wearing has to do with the design of your vehical and your driving habits. You'll want a harder tire with the proper tread design to maintain traction and responsfulness and not wear out at the 25k mark.
    Another good one is the Yokohama YK580.
    You probably have something like 225/45 up front and 255/40 or 35 in the rear.
    What kind of car is it?

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