M-3X?

[WS6]

Here was my best group of the night. Oddly fired with the red-filter (which KILLS brightness).

My main issue was losing the FSP against dark backgrounds (the target) and I shot low and to the right a lot. After that I forced myself to intuit where it was after moving from a light background to the target. Above are the results. It stood out better, MUCH BETTER! With the large aperature designed for this kind of thing. Using the small aperature, I could only shoot with the red filter flipped open.

I am very happy, but wish I did not lose the FSP and would more than willingly spend $30 for a new FSP with a tritium insert of some sort if I could find one .08" or smaller (Mil-spec is .07"). I hate the whole idea of a dang telephone pole up there.

The TDI/CAA mount fit VERY VERY snug on my bayonet lug. I am not a fan of how it mounted (set-screw pushes against the lug from beneath, pinning it in place and marking the lug while doing it. Not bad, and not a problem, I just think it could have been better thought out.

It did not shoot lose (I could lock-tite the set screw, but opted to test it first), and the mount SEEMS to be pretty dang stable.

However, my M-3X mounts sloppily to the second M1913 rail, and not so bad on the first rail. When I say sloppy, I mean if I shake the weapon hard you can hear it rattle a hair if you listen and hold down anything else that might rattle. At no time did I feel that it could fall-off or anything else, it is just something I made a notation of. On the first M1913 rail, it still wiggled, but the rattle was gone. -1 for TDI/CAA's consistancy/manufacturing process. I could easily observe movement of the beam when I wiggled it with the light on. This did not move the hot-spot in any way that would affect a shot or cause the beam move from where the sights were pointed by enough to matter except academically. However, something to note: a TLR-2's laser would have been worthless except for pestering the cat. For a dedicated flashlight mount, it does excellent and I feel that it is very solid. Beyond that, I would not recommend it.

I would also like to add that my M-3X fits a GLock with NO movement, ROCK SOLID. This is not an M-3X complaint but a TDI/CAA complaint/observation. Also, when I say it fits the lug TIGHT, I mean TIGHT! As in, they wore a bit of finish off of each other and it took some juevo's to install. No hammer or tapping, just PUSH/PULL like you mean it.

Sorry I did not take a pic of my set-up, it looks just like all the CAA/TDI mount adds online though. I opted to use the set screw on the back-half of the mount.

As far as the capability to engauge a target with the M-3X and no ambient lighting, I could hit a coyote-sized target at 75 yards or so assuming a hit means drawing blood, which imho is unacceptable as I feel you should only shoot something to kill it, and as quickly as you humanly can at that. After a Tritium front-post, if I ever find one that meets my specs (no-larger than .08"-.085"), I would feel confident enough to do so expecting a clean/humane kill. Until then, I feel that 50 yards without the red-filter and 30 yards with the red filter is a safe self-imposed limit for me to ensure clean kills on any vermin.

In extremis, i.e. someone shooting at ME, I feel that at 75-100 yards I could neutralize the threat with this combination. This is more theory than practice though. Just an observation for any military types out there wondering how far out they can see a human outline well enough to tell if an AK is being presented in their direction and return fire.

[BushmasterFanBoy]

About your loose M3X, there should have been two different rail pieces that came with the light. One is made for the Glock style rails and the other mounting bar is made for the standard rails found on your 1911 and AR-15.

A friend of mine has an M6X and has found it to be very reliable, but it is a battery eater. I run an M6, and also have had no problems.

I don't have any experience with the metal lights, but I can only imagine that they would be more durable, while adding a little extra weight.

[WS6]

About your loose M3X, there should have been two different rail pieces that came with the light. One is made for the Glock style rails and the other mounting bar is made for the standard rails found on your 1911 and AR-15.

A friend of mine has an M6X and has found it to be very reliable, but it is a battery eater. I run an M6, and also have had no problems.

I don't have any experience with the metal lights, but I can only imagine that they would be more durable, while adding a little extra weight.

The M1913 bar was used, I confirmed this.

I prefer the polymer housing as the bayonet lug acts as a heat-sink and the polymer body isolates the batteries from increased heat very well.

I have a MIAD with 2 spare batteries

I left it on and it provided useful light for 1 hour (within 75-85% of normal/fresh) and decent light for almost an hour and a half (enough to walk around and shoot at 10-15 yards with).

[Failure2Stop]

Glad it's working for your needs.

Just a little nit-pick-

In extremis, i.e. someone shooting at ME, I feel that at 75-100 yards I could neutralize the threat with this combination. This is more theory than practice though. Just an observation for any military types out there wondering how far out they can see a human outline well enough to tell if an AK is being presented in their direction and return fire.

Turning a light on at anything over 25 yards in a combat zone is a good way to get very shot. Lights are bullet magnets. Lights have a place, but it is specific and selective.

Sorry to derail. Good write-up otherwise. Thanks.

[WS6]

Glad it's working for your needs.

Just a little nit-pick-


Turning a light on at anything over 25 yards in a combat zone is a good way to get very shot. Lights are bullet magnets. Lights have a place, but it is specific and selective.

Sorry to derail. Good write-up otherwise. Thanks.

To return the nit-pick, I prefaced that with: If someone was shooting at ME. This implies that they can already/have already seen and enguaged me. I.E. I am in a lit area and they are in a shadow/ect.

[Failure2Stop]

I just thought that you might appreciate some advice from people that have.
No hard feelings.

[WS6]

Ok, I got the PM, and saw the edited message. No idea what was said.

Either way, I have a good sense of humor and know that I don't know it all, so whatever it was, it's all good!

PS. Maybe my ignorance of what to do EXACTLY when engauging someone at night with a weapon mounted light is why I am going into the medical field instead of the military?

ETA: Oh, I see that last message was not edited and you refer to your original critique. No, I took it as good advice and simply nit-picked back in the spirit of good humor while filing away your advice in the: Good things I have learned from M4carbine.net file.

All is well.