Staked castle nuts are 10X easier to remove than Lock-Tite.
Lock-Tited castle nuts are a ROYAL PITA.
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Staked castle nuts are 10X easier to remove than Lock-Tite.
Lock-Tited castle nuts are a ROYAL PITA.
INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
- ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
- MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
- MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
- BOOM!
- HA-HA!!
-WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"
I am American
Loctite threadlocker is not a cyanoacrylate it is an anaerobic.
Acetone will not do much to Loctite threadlocker when used on assembled parts. You will need to use heat for disassembly.
The best thing to use to try to remove the dried threadlocker residue once the parts are disassembled is methylene chloride, though even this doesn't work that great.
It's an interesting topic. Loctite isn't required, but may not be damaging for non TDP additions. For it's own intended use, staking works out fine. Sometimes though, a way of retaining torque could be had without breaking the anodizing that sometimes happen with staking. There are many forms of this, and it takes proper prep. For some items I see the addition as a possible compliment to staking to a point that the amount of staking could be reduced to remove less anodizing to extend component life if was to be disassembled later and reused.
The proper staking for a castle nut will remove the protective anodizing layer from the parts. The reality is that most of these parts will never be removed and nobody would notice.
Less mechanical resistance to movement VS a bonding agent could help some things, but I wouldn't omit at least some mechanical tension.
Loctite has its uses, but receiver extensions aren't one of them.
I use grease, and stake twice.
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