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I haven't read the links in the thread yet, for once, but does this address aluminum with Type III hardcoat anodize being used against Ti?
I am using an uncoated V7 Weapons Ti KMR barrel nut (not the ionbond black). BUT, I liberally used Aeroshell 33 MS, like I do with every installation. This is on my patrol rifle.
I'll remove it in a few months to check on things. I'm the guy whose sweat makes his glock rust. I live I central Florida.
"That thing looks about as enjoyable as a bowl of exploding dicks." - Magic_Salad0892
"The body cannot go where the mind has not already been."
You aren't saving 4 or five ounces on a barrel. Titanium makes a horrible barrel
You aren't saving 4 or 5 ounces on a rail. Aluminum is lighter than titanium, a titanium rail will weight more.
You aren't saving 4 or five ounces on a receiver, it will weigh more, see above.
You aren't saving 4 or 5 ounces on a stock made from titanium, plastic and aluminum are lighter than titanium....
The only place you will save weight with titanium is using it where there are steel parts (except the barrel and bolt*), and most steel parts are so small the weight saving is minimal.
* titanium is unsuitable for barrels and not strong enough for bolts.
[s]Type 3 anodizing is far less important on titanium than aluminum. Aluminum is inherently soft, anodizing gives it a hard surface, titanium can be hardened, so a hard surface coat is not really any better than it natural state.[/s]
EDIT- didn't read carefully, see post below.
Last edited by lysander; 09-05-15 at 14:28.
If the receiver extension is anodized, your not going to see much corrosion. Anodizing forms an insulative barrier between the two materials.
Unless you remove/break through the anodizing, you do not have the good electrical bond necessary for galvanic action.
That is why they can get away with a steel barrel nut on an aluminum upper.
DD buffer tube (7075)
V7 Ti castle nut in the raw
Regular steel castle nut (had cosmoline on it, did not remove, not the purpose of this experiment) applied against Ti castle nut to provide tension/keep it against the threads better under load, although it's not on "very tight".
Sanded buffer tube in one section to break ano. to simulate poor ano/wear/whatever and create a worst-case scenario.
2 table spoons of sea-salt added to 1L of water, to approximate typical ocean environment (Wikipedia was my WAG for how much salt was needed).
Water was sourced from the tap, run through my Brita filter, before salt was added, so shouldn't be TOO much chlorine in it I wouldn't think. It sure tastes fine as compared to the taste out of the tap!
Placed in situ at the time of this post.
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So now we wait 30 years.
I honestly don't think you will see anything happen without some sort of electrical current being pushed through the solution, But this should be interesting for sure. I am going to do more of a real world test, and assemble some uppers with Ti nuts, and leave them out in the rocks in my yard. Sun, Sprinklers, rain, and some snow here soon, and see what we get as well.
Ryan
Founder and co-owner/operator at 2A-Armament
WS, You can probably accelerate the test by using a spray instead of submerging the sample. Just spritz it a couple of times a week. The water will evaporate and concentrate the salt. Personally I think you are peeing up a rope. You can fork anything up if you neglect it long enough. I hope I live to see meaningful results but at 62 I doubt I will.
This is ridiculous but I think it's a good thing to check everything out ourselves the best we can.
Kudos to WS6 for doing some work, I'll keep an eye out for results.
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