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Thread: Froglube and Fireclean...Pre treating/conditioning

  1. #21
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    It's been a while since the first application and I'm not looking at the instructions. I think all I did was clean off the old lube and degrease with alcohol a couple of times. Then, I applied the FC, let it sit overnight, and applied a second coat. It was kind of a PITA but not enough to leave bad memories or nightmares.

  2. #22
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    Fireclean is pretty easy. Clean and degrease with alcohol, brake cleaner or acetone. I've even used MPro7 cleaner with Fireclean without any issues. Then just apply Fireclean like any other lube and go shoot.

    The only precaution with Fireclean is to remove the previous petroleum based products from the gun before application.

  3. #23
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    I went the whole 9 yards on all my weapons when I was running FL. Worked great. Then I moved to the arctic (NY), and found out the hard way that FL that "bleeds" out of the metal and isn't THOROUGHLY removed from the weapon turns into a waxy, sticky paste when exposed to cold weather. NOT bueno, not bueno at all...

    I also found FL to be an exceptionally bad corrosion resistant (as in not any resistance at all). In under 24 hours carrying IWB in a high humidity environment, the meprolight NS on my P30 rusted so badly that rust actually "bled" down onto the slide and ate through the HE finish - that kind of bad. Might be a fluke, but, I dunno.

    I've been slowly working my way through all of my FL'd weapons, re-stripping, and lubing with grease on rails and whatever non-FL oil I have elsewhere.

  4. #24
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    My experience is only with Froglube. Using paste Froglube I did two BCGs per their instructions, total degrease and hot soak, etc. Those worked fine. I did a few other rifles with minimal processing - wiped existing oil off with a towel and applied Froglube by hand. Those also worked fine.

    I found Froglube to be an awesome lube in the summer and when freshly applied, but it gets hard in cold temps and with age it sort of gums up. If I were in a desert I would probably run it exclusively. When I was using it I was in lower Michigan with a range of temps from hot to moderately cold and it was OK, but not ideal in winter. I since moved to northern Michigan where my adopted climate is barely warmer than Alaska (think Mat-Su valley for those who know AK), so I have decided to abandon FL before its cold weather features bite me. I'm now running SLIP2000 or Weaponshield depending what happened to be on the rifle at issue before my Froglube experiments. When I run out of those I may buy one or the other (not sure which) or may try that Lucas "extreme" gun oil.
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  5. #25
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    i followed FireClean's instructions. I bought Isoprop alcohol from the drug store and soaked my SR25 ECC bolt carrier and bolt in it and scrubbed it. Then I applied FC to the bolt (generous) amount. It really didn't do anything for the carbon that was on the tail of the bolt, but it did make cleaning subsequent shooting easy (although other products did the same for me). I just don't think it does much for helping get existing caked on carbon off. Maybe I'm expecting too much.

  6. #26
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    I did the FL thing. It was nice but became sluggish in the cold and the cold we have here in NC isn't even really that cold. Switched to SLiP2000 EWL and have been extremely pleased since. Not going to try FireCanola. I suspect FL has similar ingredients but have not done any tests. There was a thread on here about lubes and cold. FL and FC performed nearly identical so that was enough for me.
    "An opinion solicited does not equal one freely voiced," Al Swearengen, Deadwood 1877.

  7. #27
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    I found that FC worked as well as any other lube when dumped on top of existing lubes, but would get sticky after a while.
    Thoroughly degreasing the parts prior to a dumping on FC was noticeably better.
    Thoroughly cleaning, degreasing, and applying a few thin layers of FC worked the best for keeping carbon from adhering to parts and making clean-up with just a rag pretty fast.
    I don't obsess over carbon on the bolt-tail, and it seems that FC reduces it, but it's always still there after a while.
    Periodically adding FC to critical areas (cam pin, bolt carrier mouth, gas rings, chamber, locking lugs, ejector, firing pin, bolt catch, and FCG) keeps the gun chugging along very well.
    Jack Leuba
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  8. #28
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    When I first started shooting my AR carbine, I started with RemOil and when that ran out I used Birchwood Casey's which is about the same thing. I also tried a few of the others- CLP etc. When I got the Frog Lube to try, I just wiped everything down with a dry rag and hit the parts with the oily type Frog Lube. Never had any trouble. It thickens up but thins back out when I shoot, even in freezing temperatures. I've even applied it to my PPQ which was lubed in a couple of places with grease. No trouble there either. No pre-application voodoo, just slathered it on. I like the stuff
    Last edited by MistWolf; 09-30-15 at 01:35.
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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    I found that FC worked as well as any other lube when dumped on top of existing lubes, but would get sticky after a while.
    Thoroughly degreasing the parts prior to a dumping on FC was noticeably better.
    Thoroughly cleaning, degreasing, and applying a few thin layers of FC worked the best for keeping carbon from adhering to parts and making clean-up with just a rag pretty fast.
    I don't obsess over carbon on the bolt-tail, and it seems that FC reduces it, but it's always still there after a while.
    Periodically adding FC to critical areas (cam pin, bolt carrier mouth, gas rings, chamber, locking lugs, ejector, firing pin, bolt catch, and FCG) keeps the gun chugging along very well.
    This is the way I do it after you demonstrated at our class, especially getting it into bolt group like you showed us.

  10. #30
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    Who follow instructions? I use the paste in warmer months. I wipe off the bolt and carrier, slather on some FL, and that's it. I don't degrease or heat anything.

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