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Thread: Staked castle nut-how to

  1. #21
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    35 ft/lbs, NO threadlocker of any kind, stake one or two notches with a punch and ~8oz hammer.

    Use more lighter strikes rather than a few heavy ones as hitting the punch too hard will deform the end plate making it difficult to remove from the receiver extension if you ever take it apart.

    To remove a staked castle nut, use a vice block that holds the receiver extension and use a dead blow mallet to hit the wrench to shear off the staking.

    Re-torque slightly past the original staking or use a new end plate.

    I like LMT castle nuts as the have a small round indention for the staking that is easier to fill with a hammer and round punch vs the more common square slots in other castle nuts.

  2. #22
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    I use a square punch so the staking looks like Colt factory.

  3. #23
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    Not sure how it is possible to stake in 3 locations. I have staked thousands of endplates over the years and have yet to see it done. Also, if one of the stake points is at TDC, then the other two will be right in the corners of the endplate and you won't get a good staking.



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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    Not sure how it is possible to stake in 3 locations. I have staked thousands of endplates over the years and have yet to see it done. Also, if one of the stake points is at TDC, then the other two will be right in the corners of the endplate and you won't get a good staking.
    That's good to know, this is my first time to built/assemble a gun from parts and I saw 3 indentions on the castle nut and automatically put 2 and 2 together. This is why gun building shouldn't be trusted to a noob!

  5. #25
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    I just did one for the first time the other day. I used a spring loaded punch that I keep in my bunker gear for breaking windows. I pushed the punch straight down 4 or 5 times then angled the tip of the punch (in the divot I just created) towards the buffer tube/stock and did it that way about 3 or 4 times. Super easy.
    Last edited by MJDGator; 10-01-15 at 18:12.

  6. #26
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    forgive my ignorance, but why is Loctite such a no-no on the receiver extension? All of my receiver extensions have been properly staked (utilizing the automatic center punch method described above), but quite a few years ago a local smith used red Loctite on my lower (he looked at me like I was a nut when I asked him if he could stake it?). Like I said, ive since learned to do all this myself and would never do anything but stake the receiver extension/end plate, but you guys have me worried that this guy buggered up my colt lower by slathering on Loctite. can someone tell me if my OCD self should be looking for anything in particular?
    Last edited by joeyjoe; 10-01-15 at 22:21.

  7. #27
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    Joeyjoe, look on the last page of this thread.

    https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...e-Thread/page8
    To educate a man in mind and not in morals is to educate a menace to society. --Theodore Roosevelt--

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryno12 View Post
    Wrong. Absolutely wrong.
    HAHAHA!!! everything.. his name (not ryno) and your sig... and your reply... just classic finger pointing. Love it.

  9. #29
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    wow....
    Thanks for the link. Aside from the Loctite, my receiver extension is properly installed and staked. RE is an A5 so I wont be changing anything out anymore. Looks like the primary issues arise when parts are switched out? I just wanted to be sure I hadn't missed any info that had to do with Loctite and cycling/function etc. Again, the local smith acted like I was a weirdo for requesting the RE/end plate be staked. He was all about some Loctite.

  10. #30
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    I also like to use a spring punch. It's super easy and quick. It also doesn't take quite so much coordination.

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