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Thread: Staked castle nut-how to

  1. #41
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    The torque spec for the receiver extension nut (AKA castle nut) is 38 - 42 ft. lbs. You should use some moly grease on both sets of threads as an anti-seize measure and then stake two of the three notches. The spread on the range is in case you don't have two notches presented for staking on the low end of the range. And, as mentioned, no Lock Tite.
    Colt's Manufacturing Company Armorer Instructor

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  2. #42
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    I don't have the cool setups and uber work stations that some "builders" do, but this works for me.

    1/8" punch, ground down to a "square" end (Edited to add...it's hard to see in the picture but the square is angled. This allows me to get a solid bite on the end plate and it also allows me to easily push metal into the stake notch). 20 OZ standard hammer, vice and magwell block. Once I'm done I degrease using acetone and finish my stakes with a cold blue pen. Clean up again and wipe down with an oiled rag. The finished product is the last picture.

    I'm editing my post with a couple more pieces of info. Not sure if it's totally relevant to the OPs question...

    I use a torque setting of 40 foot pounds, Hammerhead tool, torque wrench set perpendicular. Aeroshell 33MS grease is used on the RE. Everything is snugged up just enough to get final RE alignment. Once that's complete I finish my torque.

    That's when I move into staking, degreasing, cold blueing and finishing the product.




    Last edited by davidjinks; 10-19-15 at 18:09.

  3. #43
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    Excellent job there, brother!
    Colt's Manufacturing Company Armorer Instructor

    Aimpoint USA ProStaff

    www.hardwiredtacticalshooting.com

  4. #44
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    Here's a quick and dirty video I put together awhile back. Staking is shown in the last few minutes:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KK2zLorRZow
    Semper Paratus Certified AR15 Armorer

  5. #45
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    Quick question. I completely understand the no red loctite but why not blue. It is not a permanent (without heat) solution like red. It seems blue loctite and staking would achieve the same result.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by G22inSC View Post
    Quick question. I completely understand the no red loctite but why not blue. It is not a permanent (without heat) solution like red. It seems blue loctite and staking would achieve the same result.
    Blue loctite one and then try to remove it after the loctite has fully cured and you'll understand why. You'll usually at minimum distroy the buffer tube, even with heat.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

  7. #47
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    I've never had any problems breaking loose blue loctite on bike parts, optics, light mounts, etc. I'm talking a drop on the tube where the castle nut secures to the receiver, not pouring it on or on the portion of tube that threads into the receiver. There is a big difference between red and blue.

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